Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Power Button Repair
Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 power button repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Power Button Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy Tab S7. This repair involves replacing the damaged input component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
🔩 Replacement Parts
What You'll Need
- Replacement input part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Heat the bottom edge
Completely power off your device before you begin.
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
The display adhesive of the Galaxy Tab S7+ is extremely strong, and it's likely you need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times before starting the display removal and during the removal procedure.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 2: Screen removal information
While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:
There's a long circuit board attached to the screen that sits parallel to the bottom edge.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
This image shows an example of the display separating from the glass panel.
Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the display.
Step 3: Insert an opening pick
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the frame and the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 4: Separate the bottom adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the bottom edge of the device towards the bottom-right corner.
Step 5: Heat the right edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 6: Separate the bottom-right corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7: Separate the right adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the components along the right edge.
Slide the new pick along the right edge of the device towards the top-right corner.
Step 8: Heat the top edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 9: Separate the top-right corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 10: Separate the top adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the top edge of the device towards the top-left corner.
Step 11: Heat the left edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 12: Separate the top-left corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 13: Separate the left adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the left edge of the device towards the bottom-left corner.
Step 14: Separate the bottom-left corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
At this point, the perimeter of the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.
Step 15: Remove the screen
Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet; it's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
With the top of the device facing you, pull the screen up and away from you like you're opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your tablet and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your tablet back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Use some high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any adhesive residue.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|124003|follow this guide|new_window=true]. If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]
Step 16: Disconnect the display cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector secured to the screen.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 17:
Use tweezers, or you fingers, to hold the display cable in place.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor's press connector attached to the display cable.
Take note of the display cable's position; you will need to bend it in the same way when connecting a new screen.
Step 18: Remove the screen
Remove the screen from the frame.
Step 19: Unfasten the frame bracket
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the fifty 3 mm-long screws securing the frame bracket to the frame.
The third photo has the same screws marked by quadrant. Use this photo during reassembly to help account for all the screws:
Bottom left = 9 screws
Bottom right = 14 screws
Top right = 12 screws
Top left = 15 screws
Step 20: Remove the frame bracket
Lift the frame bracket away from the frame, making sure to thread the display cable through its socket.
Step 21: Disconnect the battery
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 22: Disconnect the display cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Repeat for the fingerprint sensor cable attached to display cable.
Step 23: Remove the display cable
Use your fingers to remove the display cable.
Step 24: Disconnect the keyboard dock port cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the keyboard dock port cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 25: Disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 26: Reposition the keyboard dock port cable
Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt tweezers], or your fingers, to bend the orange keyboard dock port cable away from the device.
Avoid folding or sharply bending the cable while repositioning it; doing so could tear the cable.
Step 27: Reposition the interconnect cable
Use blunt tweezers, or your fingers, to bend the interconnect cable away from the device.
Step 28: Apply isopropyl alcohol
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire. In case you're struggling to pull up the battery, apply more isopropyl alcohol and try again.
Apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the gaps surrounding the battery's right edge.
Wait between one to two minutes for the adhesive to loosen.
Only apply a few drops initially and apply more if necessary; too much isopropyl alcohol might overflow onto the motherboard and daughterboard.
Step 29: Battery removal information
While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:
The battery is comprised of two cells that are shrouded in a plastic jacket.
The adhesive securing the battery to the frame is concentrated in a ring shape around the perimeter of the battery.
To minimize the risk of bending or breaking the cells, it's recommended you separate the adhesive cell-by-cell before the entire battery is removed.
Step 30: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Insert an opening pick into the edge with the widest gap between the frame and the battery.
Step 31: Separate the battery's adhesive
Rotate the opening pick to insert its long edge into the gap.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force and pry up with the opening pick to separate the battery from the frame.
Create an opening wide enough for a plastic card to be inserted; you will be unable to fully separate the battery's adhesive with the pick.
Step 32:
Insert a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] into the gap between the frame and the battery.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.
Step 33: Create a gap between the battery and frame
Insert an opening pick into the edge with the widest gap between the frame and the battery's left edge.
Rotate the opening pick to insert its long edge into the gap.
Slide the pick along the battery's edge to create a gap wide enough for isopropyl alcohol to be added.
Step 34: Apply isopropyl alcohol
Apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the gaps surrounding the battery's left edge.
Only apply a few drops initially and apply more if necessary; too much isopropyl alcohol might overflow onto the motherboard and daughterboard.
Step 35: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the left edge as possible.
Insert an opening pick into the edge with the widest gap between the frame and the battery.
Step 36: Separate the battery's adhesive
Rotate the opening pick to insert its long edge into the gap.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force and pry up with the opening pick to separate the battery from the frame.
Create an opening wide enough for a plastic card to be inserted; you will be unable to fully separate the battery's adhesive with the pick.
Step 37:
Insert a plastic card into the gap between the frame and the battery.
Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.
Step 38: Remove the battery
If there's any resistance when removing the battery, use a plastic card to slice around the battery's edges again.
Remove the battery.
If there's any alcohol remaining, use a lint-free cloth to wipe it off or allow it to dry before installing a new battery.
During reassembly, remove the old adhesive and apply [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Apply+Stretch+Release+Battery+Adhesive/137171|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true], double sided adhesive tape, or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|pre-cut adhesive|new_window=true] to secure the new battery.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$84)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($50-$140)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 122 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 generates 125 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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