iPhone 16 Pro Power Button Repair

Allow the phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from the phone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off the phone.

If the screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7.4 mm‑long screws on either side of the USB-C port.

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the back glass for two minutes.

Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass, above the USB-C port.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There's a delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in each step to avoid bending these contacts.

If you damage the spring contacts, gently bend them back with a spudger or opening pick so they align with their gold contact pads on the back glass.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** on the bottom edge to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/6VJ6BvBUgEVZJfTK.full|spring contact|new_window=true].

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Slide your pick around the bottom right corner and halfway up the right edge, or until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the back glass.

Don't slice near the volume buttons to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/BCE4BVXQBj614vJg.full|wireless charging/flash cable|new_window=true].

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge.

Slide the second pick around the bottom left corner and along the left edge of the screen to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.

You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.

Leave this pick inserted at the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the back glass, including the area around the volume buttons, until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/E2B65UGPRFnwJE1I.full|spring contacts|new_window=true].

Slide your opening pick across the top edge and around the top right corner to the volume up button to separate the adhesive.

You'll hear and feel clicks as the top two clips release.

Don't try to fully remove the back glass just yet—it's still attached with a delicate ribbon cable. Follow the next few steps to remove it safely.

If the back glass doesn't swing open easily, don't force it—go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

You may need to lift the back glass up slightly before swinging it open to fully disengage the clips.

Gently swing open the back glass towards the volume buttons.

Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object like a small box to avoid straining the cable.

Remove the opening picks.

Consider using polyimide tape to protect the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/mbOLvEXLDsTf4inF.full|rear camera lenses|new_window=true] while you're working inside the phone. Don't push against the lenses to avoid damaging the delicate stabilizers.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the lower connector cover:

Two 1.2 mm‑long screws

One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Use tweezers or your fingers to pick up and remove the lower connector cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the upper connector cover:

Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

One 1.2 mm‑long screw

One 1.6 mm‑long screw

Use tweezers or your fingers to pick up and remove the upper connector cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass press connector.

Lift the back glass off the frame and remove it.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

One 3.0 mm‑long screw

Two 1.7 mm‑long screws

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.

Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable press connector from the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two press connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to remove the 1.0 mm‑long screw securing the lower assembly cable.

Use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.

Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.

Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.9 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine from its top-right corner.

Be careful not to pry against the battery.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

Two 1.6 mm‑long Phillips screws

One 2.0 mm‑long Phillips screw

One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the loudspeaker's bottom-right screw hole.

Pry up and remove the loudspeaker.

The battery is secured with three [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/45779/ask-ifixit-what-is-stretch-release-adhesive-and-why-do-we-love-it|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true]. The next four steps show how to remove them and free the battery.

Be careful not to dent or puncture the battery. Even with its metal enclosure, the battery can catch fire if damaged.

Insert the tip of angled tweezers under one of the black pull tabs.

Use your tweezers to slice through the black tab and peel the tab off the top of the battery.

Don't try to pull the tab out from under the battery just yet.

Use tweezers or your fingers to grab the pull tab and pull it down so it's flat against the frame.

Slowly pull the adhesive out from under the battery at as low of an angle as possible.

Give the strip plenty of time to stretch and re-grip it as necessary. When the strip becomes too long, wrap it around your tweezers and continue pulling.

If the strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery. If you can't retrieve it, move onto the next strip.

Repeat the procedure with the two remaining adhesive strips.

Carefully bend the lower assembly cable out of the way as needed to access the adhesive strips.

If you removed all three stretch release adhesive strips, congratulations! Lift and remove the battery.

If one or more adhesive strips broke, ***skip to the next step*** to remove them with isopropyl alcohol.

The next two steps show how to remove the battery if the adhesive strips broke.

Lift the bottom edge of the frame to tilt the phone.

Use a pipette or a syringe to apply 2–3 drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the battery, close to where each broken adhesive strip came out.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the bottom of the battery and the frame.

Insert a second opening pick between the left edge of the battery and the frame. Use this pick to pry the battery upwards slowly with steady force. Work your way up the edge of the battery, giving the adhesive time to release.

Don't bend or crease the battery. If it feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Once the adhesive loosens, grab and remove the battery.

Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.*** Some of the reassembly photos show the Pro Max model, but the procedure is correct for the Pro.

Remove any remaining adhesive from the battery recess.

Wipe the frame surface with a lint-free cloth and a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Wait for the alcohol to fully evaporate before installing the new battery.

***Before [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/tCLYXXgYxRXXf4M1.full|removing any liners|new_window=true]*** on the adhesive, place the battery in its recess to check that it fits and that its cable reaches its socket on the logic board. Don't connect the battery yet!

The next four steps show how to apply [product|IF494-014|custom-cut adhesive|new_window=true] to the battery. If your battery comes with adhesive pre-installed, skip the next four steps.

If needed, [guide|137171|follow this guide|new_window=true] to apply generic [product|IF145-458|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true] instead. Ensure the position of these strips lines up with the adhesive wells in the phone's frame. Use [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/XbMLXJscfEPPsR6I.full|this photo|new_window=true] as a reference.

Align the new adhesive with your battery to see how it needs to be applied. Set all strips fully on the battery, and align the top edges of the black pull tabs with the bottom edge of the battery.

Your adhesive may look slightly different or have different liners.

If the battery‑side of your adhesive has two liners, remove the top liner.

If the battery‑side of your adhesive has one liner, remove it.

Lay the adhesive onto the battery and press each strip firmly into place.

If the battery‑side of your adhesive still has a bottom liner on it, remove it now, and press each strip firmly into place.

Use your finger to fold each black pull tab around the bottom edge of the battery and press it into place.

Remove the iPhone‑side liner off of the battery adhesive.

The battery adhesive is very sticky! Be careful as you align the battery in its recess—***once it sticks, you won't be able to realign it***.

Lower the battery partially into its recess, making sure the adhesive ***doesn't touch*** the frame.

Use a spudger or your finger to connect the battery cable's [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true] to ensure that the cable reaches.

Push the battery towards the top of the iPhone, and lay it in its recess.

Use your fingers to press firmly against the battery for ten seconds to bond it to the frame.

***Use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the battery from the logic board.***

If the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/GMNZAPaHT46dliUb.full|black plastic shim|new_window=true] beneath the battery didn't come out with the loudspeaker, skip this step.

Align the battery shim so it's flush with the new loudspeaker's left edge and underside. Press it onto the loudspeaker to adhere it.

If the shim isn't sticky, set it into the phone alongside the loudspeaker in the next step.

Align the bottom edge of the loudspeaker with the frame.

Set the loudspeaker into its recess.

Install the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

Two 1.6 mm‑long Phillips screws

One 2.0 mm‑long Phillips screw

One 1.3 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Use blunt-nose tweezers or your fingers to align the Taptic Engine with its screw posts and place it in the frame.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 1.9 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine, located on its right edge.

Use your finger or a spudger to connect the two lower assembly [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

These press connectors can be tricky. Align each connector over its socket and press down—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force them. If you're having trouble, reposition them and try again.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the 1.0 mm‑long screw securing the lower assembly cable.

Use your finger or a spudger to connect the lower assembly cable press connector, located in the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/bC52tbY3ADUcONRL.full|bottom-right corner|new_window=true] of the logic board.

Use tweezers or your fingers to install the Taptic Engine cover.

Make sure the bottom edge of the cover [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2I1SmffIGfHo6MHm.full|latches properly to the frame|new_window=true].

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

One 3.0 mm‑long screw

Two 1.7 mm‑long screws

Work around the fragile grounding clips as you're cleaning the frame. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.

Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.

If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] and try again.

If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a [product|IF145-284|microfiber] or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.

Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.

Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.

Use features such as the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.

Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose ***a third ***of the adhesive.

The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.

If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.

Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.

Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.

If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.

If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, gently pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.

If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.

If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.

Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.

Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Don't press too hard, or you'll stretch and deform the adhesive.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.

Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.

At this point, you may still have liner covering the perimeter, which prevents the adhesive from accidentally sticking to anything while you're reassembling your iPhone. ***Don't remove these small release liners just yet.***

Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.

Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.

***This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone. ***Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.

If you've replaced the logic board and the screen fails to turn on, you'll need to follow the [guide|178634|screen guide|new_window=true] to manually connect the display connector.

Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Align the battery connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.

As you remove the liners, make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.

Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.

If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.

Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or an [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.

The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.

Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.

Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.

Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.

Alternatively, you can use [guide|142291|vise clamps] around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.

Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.

The coins may leave a slight impression on the bottom book cover, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.

The pressure will help activate the adhesive.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to install the two 7.4 mm‑long screws on either side of the USB-C port.