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Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra Power Button Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra power button repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$50 - $140
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:67 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$30 - $84
Labor$20 - $56
Total Estimated Cost$50 - $140

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Power Button Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra. This repair involves replacing the damaged input component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement input part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Safety precautions

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***Let your phone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair.*** A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables from your phone and completely power it down.

Step 2: Heat the right edge

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A [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Adhesive information

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While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:

There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.

The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 4: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 5: Separate the right adhesive

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Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 6: Heat the bottom edge

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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 7: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 8: Separate the bottom adhesive

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Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9: Heat the left edge

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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 10: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 11: Separate the left adhesive

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Slide your opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.

Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12: Heat the top edge

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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 13: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 14: Separate the top adhesive

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Slide the pick to the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.

Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Step 16: Separate the remaining adhesive

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Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to separate through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Step 17: Remove the back cover

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Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 18: Disconnect the NFC antenna and charging coil

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 19: Separate the coil adhesive

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The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.

Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Step 20:

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Insert an opening pick between the top edge of the wireless charging coil and the frame.

Slide the pick toward the right edge to separate the remaining adhesive.

Step 21: Unfasten the NFC antenna and charging coil

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Step 22: Unfasten the loudspeaker

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 23: Unclip the loudspeaker

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Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 24: Remove the charging coil and loudspeaker assembly

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Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 25: Disconnect the battery

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 26: Disconnect the interconnect cables

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the primary interconnect cable.

Step 27:

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable press connector from the charging board.

Repeat for the primary interconnect cable.

Step 28: Remove the interconnect cables

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Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the frame.

Step 29: Unfasten the charging board

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the charging board.

Step 30: Remove the charging board

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Insert the point of your spudger under the top right of the charging board.

Pry the charging board up from its recess until you can grab it with your fingers.

Pull the charging board toward the top of the device to remove it from its recess.

During reassembly, reinsert the charging board at a downward angle to guide the USB-C port into its recess.

Step 31: Disconnect the earpiece speaker

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector.

Step 32: Unfasten the motherboard cover

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 33: Remove the motherboard cover

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Insert the point of your spudger between the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover and the frame.

Pry up on the cover to unclip it from the frame.

Remove the motherboard cover.

During reassembly, press down on the cover to secure its clips to the frame.

Step 34: Disconnect the front-facing camera

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the front-facing camera press connector.

Step 35: Disconnect the fingerprint reader

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint reader press connector.

Step 36: Disconnect the screen

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector from the motherboard.

Step 37:

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector from the display cutout near the bottom of the phone.

Step 38: Remove the screen cable

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Grab and remove the screen cable from the frame.

Step 39: Disconnect the right 5G mmWave antenna

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the right 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Step 40: Disconnect the stylus

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the stylus press connector.

Step 41: Disconnect the left 5G mmWave antenna

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the left 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Step 42: Unfasten the motherboard

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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 4 mm-long screw securing the motherboard.

Step 43: Remove the motherboard

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Insert the point of your spudger between the top left of the motherboard and the frame.

Pry the motherboard up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Grab the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

Be careful not to snag any loose cables.

During reassembly, make sure the cables are above the motherboard when reinserting it.

Step 44: Heat the front-facing camera

Step 44 - Image 1

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 45: Pry the front-facing camera

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The adhesive securing the camera is very strong. Work slowly and apply more heat if the camera feels stuck. Avoid separating the circuit board from camera housing, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/whsCJNWvaPw5ieiy|new_window=true|such as this].

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry the front-facing camera from its recess.

If the camera doesn't loosen, use your SIM card eject tool to scrape away the epoxy surrounding the camera.

Step 46: Prepare the new frame

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During reassembly, prepare your new frame for the front-facing camera:

Remove the black adhesive liner from the front-facing camera recess.

Peel and remove the foam liner from the new frame.

This liner isn't necessary for the repair.

Step 47: Apply new adhesive

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Before installing the front-facing camera in your new frame, apply new adhesives onto the frame and the camera:

Remove the two large clear rectangular liners from the adhesive sheet and place the adhesives on the sides of the camera recess.

Remove the liner from the main adhesive piece and place it in the center of the camera recess with its pull tab facing the bottom of the frame.

Remove any adhesive residue from the front-facing camera module.

Remove the liner from the thin piece of adhesive and place it on the top edge of the camera.

Step 48: Install the front-facing camera

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Install the front-facing camera:

Remove all four blue adhesive liners from the camera and the frame.

Insert the front-facing camera into its recess in the frame and apply pressure to secure it.

Step 49: Unfasten the left 5G mmWave antenna

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Use a Phillips driver to remove the two 2.4 mm‑long screws securing the left 5G mmWave antenna.

Step 50: Remove the left 5G mmWave antenna

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Grab the left 5G mmWave antenna connector and lift up to separate the bracket from the frame.

Remove the antenna.

Step 51: mmWave antenna reassembly

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Before reinstalling the lower 5G mmWave antenna, replace the bracket with a new one. If you don't have a new bracket, skip this step.

Remove the antenna and connector from the old bracket.

Remove the L-shaped adhesive liner from your new bracket.

Place the antenna in the bracket's recess with the connector fed underneath the longer screw mount.

Remove the thin adhesive liner on the outside of the bracket before installing it in the frame.

Step 52: Remove the right 5G mmWave antenna

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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the frame and the right 5G mmWave antenna connector.

Pry up with the spudger to separate the adhesive.

Step 53:

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Grab and remove the right 5G mmWave antenna from the frame.

Step 54: Upper 5G mmWave antenna reassembly information

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Replace the adhesive on the upper 5G mmWave antenna before reinstalling it. If you don't have replacement adhesive, reuse your old one or use [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|new_window=true|custom-cut adhesive].

Remove the existing adhesive from the antenna with blunt nose tweezers or your fingers.

Remove the clear liner from your new adhesive.

Apply the new adhesive to the bottom of the antenna, with its round end farthest from the connector.

Remove the green liner from the adhesive before reinstalling the antenna in the frame.

Step 55: Only the screen and battery assembly remains

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You're now left with the screen and battery assembly.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$84)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($50-$140)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 67 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 96% reduction in carbon emissions!

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