OnePlus 9 Screen Replacement
Complete guide to OnePlus 9 screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
🌍 Share Your Environmental Impact
Inspire others to repair instead of replace! Share how much CO₂ you're saving.
💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for OnePlus 9. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Eject the SIM card tray
Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.
Step 2: Remove the SIM card tray
Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.
A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your phone's internal components.
Step 3: Loosen the rear glass
Completely power off your phone before you begin.
A [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 4: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction handle to the rear glass, as close to the bottom edge as possible.
If your rear glass is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction handle to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction handle to the broken rear glass.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the glass and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|apply more heat] to further soften the adhesive.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Step 5: Slice the bottom edge adhesive
Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 6: Insert a second opening pick
Insert a second opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the rear glass.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7: Slice the left edge adhesive
If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] to reheat it.
Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the rear glass.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8: Slice the top edge adhesive
Insert a fourth opening pick underneath the top left corner of the rear glass.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9: Slice the right edge adhesive
Insert a fifth and final opening pick underneath the top right corner of the rear glass.
Slide the opening pick along the right edge of the back cover to slice the remaining adhesive.
Step 10: Remove the rear glass
Remove the rear glass.
If the rear glass is still stuck to the frame, slide an opening pick around the entire perimeter until the rear glass separates completely.
During reassembly [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|secure the rear glass with pre-cut adhesive|new_window=true] or double-sided adhesive tape. After installing the rear glass, apply strong, steady pressure to your phone for several minutes to help the adhesive form a good bond—a stack of heavy books works well.
Step 11: Peel off the tape
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel the bottom right corner of the charging coil tape off of the daughterboard cover.
Step 12:
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully peel the bottom left corner of the charging coil tape off of the loudspeaker.
Step 13: Pry up the flash assembly
The flash assembly is held in place by mild adhesive and covers a motherboard cover screw.
Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the flash assembly.
Use your opening pick to pry up the flash assembly.
Don't try to remove the flash assembly all the way during this procedure. Its cable is adhered to the backside of the motherboard cover.
Step 14: Unfasten the motherboard cover
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the ten 3.8 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.
One of the motherboard cover screws is covered by a white water ingress sticker. To unfasten the screw you can puncture the sticker with your screwdriver.
Step 15: Pry up the motherboard cover
The motherboard cover is further held in place by tight plastic clips.
Insert a spudger underneath the bottom right edge of the motherboard cover.
Pry upwards to loosen the motherboard cover and create a gap.
Step 16:
Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom right edge of the motherboard cover.
Slide the opening pick up along the right edge of the motherboard cover.
Twist the opening pick to release the plastic clips and pry up the motherboard cover.
Step 17: Remove the motherboard cover
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the motherboard cover.
The charging coil is attached to the motherboard cover and will lift up at the same time.
Step 18: Disconnect the battery cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket on the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.
Step 19: Unfasten the daughterboard cover
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.8 mm-long screws securing the daugtherboard cover.
One of the daughterboard cover screws is covered by a white water ingress sticker. To unfasten the screw you can puncture the sticker with your screwdriver.
Step 20: Pry up the daughterboard cover
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the top right edge of the daughterboard cover.
Pry upwards to loosen the daughterboard cover.
Step 21: Remove the daughterboard cover
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the daughterboard cover.
Step 22: Disconnect the interconnect cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable from the motherboard by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 23: Remove the metal bracket
Slide one arm of a pair of tweezers underneath the metal bracket covering the interconnect cable.
Use your tweezers to lift and unhinge the metal bracket.
Remove the metal bracket.
Step 24: Disconnect the interconnect cable
Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable from the daughterboard by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 25: Remove the interconnect cable
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the interconnect cable.
Step 26: Disconnect the antenna board and fingerprint cables
Use a spudger to disconnect the antenna board cable and the fingerprints sensor from the daughterboard by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
Step 27: Disconnect the black coaxial cable
Slide one arm of a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] under the black antenna cable until it‘s snug against the metal connector.
Disconnect the antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from the daughterboard.
Step 28: Disconnect the white coaxial cable
Slide one arm of a pair of tweezers under the white antenna cable until it‘s snug against the metal connector.
Disconnect the antenna cable by prying the connector straight up from the daughterboard.
Step 29: Unfasten the daughterboard
Use a Phillips driver to remove the 2.8 mm-long screw securing the daughterboard.
Step 30: Pry up the daughterboard
Insert the point of a spudger underneath the top right corner of the daughterboard.
Pry upwards to loosen the daughterboard.
Step 31: Remove the daughterboard
Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove the daughterboard.
Before reinserting the daughterboard, make sure all cables that connect to it are out of the way.
Step 32: Disconnect the display
Use a spudger to disconnect the display cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket on the bottom right corner.
Step 33: Loosen the display adhesive
Apply a heated iOpener to the screen for 3 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device. The edge should feel slightly too hot to touch.
Step 34: Insert an iFlex
Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.
If your display is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force and insert an iFlex between the screen and frame.
Make sure to insert the iFlex [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/LoZFVDHPURIASWIS.full|new_window=true|underneath the screen] and not the plastic frame.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you're having trouble, apply more heat to the bottom edge and try again.
Step 35: Insert an opening pick
Insert an opening pick between the iFlex and the screen.
Remove the iFlex.
Step 36: Slice the bottom edge adhesive
Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 37:
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 38: Slice the left edge adhesive
Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
When slicing near the front facing camera, only insert the opening pick 2.5 mm to avoid damaging it.
Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 39: Slice the top edge adhesive
If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] or heat gun for 1–2 minutes to reheat it.
Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 40: Slice the right edge adhesive
Insert a fifth opening pick underneath the top right corner of the screen and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.
Don't try to remove the display all the way yet, the display cable is still threaded through the midframe.
Step 41: Free the display cable
Flip the phone over.
Lift the bottom edge of the phone and carefully thread the display cable through its gap in the frame.
Step 42: Remove the screen
Remove the screen.
During reassembly, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Custom-cut+Adhesive+Strips/126585|follow this guide|new_window=true] to install custom-cut adhesives for your device.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your OnePlus 9 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 53 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new OnePlus 9 generates 61 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 87% reduction in carbon emissions!
Get a Personalized Repair Estimate
Upload a photo of your OnePlus 9 and get an AI-powered cost estimate in seconds. See exactly what's damaged and how much it'll cost to fix.