iPhone 16 Plus Screen Replacement
Complete guide to iPhone 16 Plus screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 16 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly
Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.
Unplug any cables from your phone.
Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.
Step 2: Tape over any cracks
If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.
Step 3: Mark your opening picks
If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.
Step 4: Remove the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the USB-C port.
Step 5: Heat the bottom edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.
Alternatively, you can use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.
Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.
Step 6: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen, above the USB-C port.
Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Step 7: Screen information
As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next eight steps, don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** to avoid damaging the following areas:
Two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone—one just above the Action button and the other about halfway between the volume down button and the bottom of the phone.
Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone.
Step 8: Separate the bottom adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FluNxIfSmcFHx1sr.full|spring contacts|new_window=true].
Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9: Heat the right edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.
When using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], heat the screen until it's hot to the touch.
Step 10: Separate the right adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FluNxIfSmcFHx1sr.full|spring contacts|new_window=true].
Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner and up the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive and release the metal clip.
You'll hear and feel the metal clip release as you pass it.
Step 11: Heat the top edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.
When using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], heat until it's hot to the touch.
Step 12: Separate the top adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FluNxIfSmcFHx1sr.full|spring contacts|new_window=true].
Continue sliding your pick around the top right corner and across the top edge to separate the adhesive and release the two metal clips.
Step 13: Heat the left edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.
When using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], heat until it's hot to the touch.
Step 14: Separate the left adhesive
Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FluNxIfSmcFHx1sr.full|screen cables and the spring contacts|new_window=true].
Slide the opening pick down the left edge of the screen to separate the remaining adhesive and release the last two metal clips.
Step 15: Prop up the screen
At this point, the screen should be free from the frame. If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.
Swing open the screen over the left edge of the phone and support it with a clean, sturdy object.
Step 16: Remove the cover screws
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the front sensor connector cover.
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 1 mm‑long screw securing the screen connector cover.
Step 17: Remove the screen connector covers
Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the front sensor cover to a 90-degree angle and unhook it from its slot in the logic board.
Lift the cover out of its slot and remove it.
Repeat this process for the screen connector cover.
Step 18: Disconnect the screen
Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].
Repeat this process for the front sensor press connector.
Step 19: Remove the screen
Lift the screen off of the frame and remove it.
Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/dIiZPDxwsyBkbRKj.full|spring contacts|new_window=true].
Step 20: Remove the ambient light sensor bracket
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the ambient light sensor bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift and remove the ambient light sensor bracket.
Step 21: Pry up the ambient light sensor
Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor cable.
Use an opening pick to pry up the ambient light sensor.
Step 22: Peel up the ambient light sensor cable
Gently slide an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable, starting near the sensor and moving towards to the opposite corner.
If the adhesive doesn't peel up easily, apply more heat.
Step 23: Remove the ambient light sensor
Continue slowly sliding the opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable until the cable is free from the screen.
Use a pair of tweezers to lift the ambient light sensor off of the screen.
Step 24: Disassembly complete
Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.***
Some reassembly photos are of the iPhone 16 non‑Plus, which may look slightly different. The procedure is correct.
Step 25: Place the ambient light sensor
Without letting the ambient light sensor adhesive touch the screen, use a pair of tweezers to hold the sensor above the back of the new screen.
Align the ambient light sensor with its recess in the back of the screen.
Use a spudger or your finger to press the ambient light sensor into its recess.
Lay the ambient light sensor cable down on the back of the screen.
If the ambient light sensor cable isn't sticking, apply a few small pieces of double‑sided tape, like [product|IF317-072-6|Tesa tape|new_window=true], to the back of the sensor cable.
Step 26: Press the ambient light sensor
Use your finger to press down the ambient light sensor cable.
Step 27: Install the ambient light sensor bracket
Use tweezers or your fingers to place the ambient light sensor bracket over the back of the sensor.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the ambient light sensor bracket.
Step 28: Remove the screen adhesive
Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/iDbDxdvYPgYRhqPQ.full|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.
This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up the phone. Connect the screen, power on the phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down, disconnect the screen, and continue reassembly.
The adhesive remaining on the phone's frame can be difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].
Use a spudger to push the screen adhesive up until you can grab it with a pair of tweezers.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the adhesive around the entire perimeter of the phone.
Step 29:
Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.
Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.
Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.
Step 30: Orient the adhesive
Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the front‑facing camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.
Your adhesive may look slightly different.
Step 31: Expose the bottom edge of the adhesive
Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off of the adhesive starting from the bottom, but do not remove the liner all the way.
Step 32: Apply the adhesive
Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.
While holding the back liner out of the way, carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive to the bottom edge of the iPhone's frame.
When the adhesive is aligned, use your finger to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.
Step 33:
Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.
If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.
If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.
Step 34: Press the adhesive into place
Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the front-facing camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.
Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive firmly into place all around the iPhone.
Be careful not to press on the camera, spring contacts, or other internal components.
Step 35: Remove the top liner
Use the point of a spudger to lift the pull tab in the top‑right corner of the frame until you can grab it with your fingers.
Your pull tab may be in a different location. Make sure you're pulling the full-size top liner, ***not*** the thin liners under it.
Peel back the top liner and remove it.
Step 36:
Once the top liner is removed, there should be three narrow liners on top of the adhesive with pull tabs near the bottom edge.
Your pull tabs may be in different positions.
If you don't see these pull tabs, you may have accidentally removed the thin liners in the previous step. If the adhesive is clean and properly aligned, you may proceed, just be careful not to touch anything to the exposed adhesive until you are ready to install the screen.
Step 37: Prop up the screen
Prop the screen up along the left edge of the iPhone frame, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.
Step 38: Connect the screen and front sensor
Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the screen and front sensor press connectors.
Step 39: Cover the connectors
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to place the screen connector cover over the screen connector by inserting it at a slight downward angle to engage the hook, then laying the cover flat over the connector.
Step 40:
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to place the front sensor connector cover over the front sensor connector by inserting it at a 90‑degree angle to engage the hook, then laying the cover flat over the connector.
Step 41: Install the cover screws
Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the two 0.9 mm‑long screws securing the front sensor connector and screen connector covers.
Step 42: Remove the final adhesive liners
As you remove the liners in this step, the adhesive will be fully exposed. Make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the two narrow liners covering the adhesive along the right, top, and bottom edges of the iPhone.
Step 43:
Without letting the screen touch the adhesive, hold the screen over the phone so you can access the final liner along the left edge of the phone.
Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the final liner along the left edge of the phone.
Step 44: Place the screen
Align the screen over the frame, then lower it into place.
Step 45:
Firmly press the top edge of the screen into the adhesive, then the bottom edge, until the screen is fully seated in the frame.
Step 46: Heat the screen
To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the screen using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.
Firmly press around the perimeter of the screen.
If you have [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true], use them to strengthen the bond of your new adhesive. If not, keep reading for more ways to secure the screen.
Step 47: Press the back glass
To evenly compress your iPhone and strengthen the bond of the screen to the frame, you need to account for the camera bump.
If you have the box your iPhone came in, take the lid and place it on a flat surface.
If you don't have your original box, ***skip this step for an alternate method***.
Place your iPhone screen-side-up in the lid of your box with the camera bump in its recess.
Find something close to the size of your iPhone, but taller than the sides of the box. Stack it on top of the iPhone, followed by a few heavy objects.
Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.
Step 48:
If you don't have the original box for your iPhone, follow the next three steps for another method to evenly compress the screen.
Place the iPhone screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.
Apply tape to the back glass to protect its finish.
Step 49:
Place two layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.
Evenly distribute the coins and make sure they are at least as thick as the camera bump.
Step 50:
Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on your iPhone.
The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.
Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.
Step 51: Install the pentalobe screws
Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your iPhone 16 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 62 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 16 Plus generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 89% reduction in carbon emissions!
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