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iPhone 16 Pro Screen Replacement

Complete guide to iPhone 16 Pro screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$80 - $350
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:64 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$48 - $210
Labor$32 - $140
Total Estimated Cost$80 - $350

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 16 Pro. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Before you begin

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Allow your iPhone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your iPhone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.

Step 2: Tape over any cracks

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If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3: Remove the pentalobe screws

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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

Step 4: Mark your opening picks

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If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Apple sells an ***Adhesive Cutter*** tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their [link|https://selfservicerepair.com|Self Repair Store|new_window=true].

Step 5: Create a gap with a suction handle

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The next two steps show how to create an initial gap using a suction handle.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

You can also use an [product|IF145-198-4|iOpener|new_window=true] to heat the screen. Follow [guide|11677|these instructions|new_window=true] to heat and apply the iOpener properly.

Step 6:

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Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

While supporting the frame with one hand, pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

If you can't create a gap, apply more heat to the edge and try again.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 7: Screen information

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As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the following steps, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the following areas:

Two delicate cables connecting the screen to the iPhone—one just above the Action button and the other about halfway along the left edge of the iPhone

Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone

Step 8: Slice the bottom edge adhesive

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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to release the adhesive.

Don't insert the pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.

If the adhesive feels difficult to slice, reheat the edge for a minute.

Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9: Heat the left edge

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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 10: Separate the left adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts and cables.

Insert a second opening pick in the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.

You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.

Leave the opening pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Separate the remaining adhesives

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Repeat the heating and slicing procedure along the remaining screen edges.

Step 12: Swing open the screen

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At this point, the screen should be free from the frame. If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick and carefully check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Carefully lift the screen upwards until the clips along the long edges clear the frame.

Swing open the screen over the ***left edge*** of the iPhone and lay it flat on your work surface.

Step 13: Remove the connector covers

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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the front sensor and display connector covers.

Step 14:

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Use tweezers to grasp the front sensor connector cover near the screw hole.

Lift and remove the cover.

Repeat the procedure to remove the display connector cover.

Step 15: Disconnect the screen

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true].

Repeat for the front sensor press connector.

Step 16: Remove the screen

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Lift the screen and remove it.

Step 17: Disassembly complete

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Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.***

Depending on your iPhone model, some reassembly photos may have minor visual discrepancies. The procedure, however, will be correct for your iPhone.

Step 18: Ambient light sensor information

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The ambient light sensor is located behind the screen, next to the cut‑out for the Face ID sensors.

Check if the replacement screen comes with one installed. If it does, [guide|178634|click here|stepid=386328] to skip the next twelve steps.

Step 19: Remove the ambient light sensor bracket

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1 mm‑long screw securing the bracket on the ambient light sensor.

Step 20:

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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift and remove the ambient light sensor bracket.

Step 21: Heat the ambient light sensor cable

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor cable.

Step 22: Peel up the ambient light sensor cable

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Be careful and work slowly—the cable is extremely delicate, especially near the sensor. Don't try to lift [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ttvUGRqG5NAbfmBS.full|the sensor itself|new_window=true] yet.

Slowly slide an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable, starting under the connector at the bottom and working upwards until the cable is free from the screen.

If the adhesive doesn't peel up easily, apply more heat.

Step 23: Reheat the ambient light sensor

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor itself.

Step 24: Pry up the ambient light sensor

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Work slowly to avoid tearing the thin cable attached to the ambient light sensor. If it feels stubborn, apply more heat instead of using more force.

Use the flat end of a spudger to slowly pry up the ambient light sensor from the side with the protruding cable.

Remove the ambient light sensor.

Step 25: Prepare the ambient light sensor

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Use tweezers to reposition any adhesive that may have covered the ambient light sensor during removal. The adhesive should form a border around the raised rectangle.

If the adhesive was damaged or stayed with the old screen, replace it with a 1 mm wide strip of [product|IF317-072-6|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] along its top border.

Step 26: Place the ambient light sensor

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Align the ambient light sensor with its recess in the back of the screen.

Use a spudger or your finger to press the ambient light sensor into its recess.

Step 27: Warm the ambient light sensor cable

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor and its cable. It only needs to be warm—not hot.

Step 28: Press the ambient light sensor

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Use your finger to press down the ambient light sensor cable.

If the ambient light sensor cable isn't sticking, apply a few small pieces of thin, double‑sided tape, like [product|IF317-072-6|Tesa tape|new_window=true], to the back of the sensor cable.

Step 29: Install the ambient light sensor bracket

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Use tweezers or your fingers to hook the ambient light sensor bracket over the back of the sensor and set it into place.

Step 30:

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 1 mm‑long screw securing the bracket on the ambient light sensor.

Step 31: Remove the adhesive and its residue

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Use a spudger or tweezers to remove the adhesive chunks from the iPhone's frame.

Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Step 32:

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If you're reinstalling your existing screen, be sure to remove any remaining adhesive from the back of your screen as well.

Step 33:

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Using a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) and some high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol, clean the areas of the frame and screen where you removed the old adhesive.

For best results, swipe your cleaning cloth in one direction, not back and forth.

Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.

Step 34: Apply the replacement adhesive

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Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.

Use features such as the camera cutout to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.

Step 35:

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Grasp the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose ***a third ***of the adhesive.

The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.

If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.

Step 36:

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Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of your iPhone's frame.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip into place.

Step 37:

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Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.

If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.

If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.

If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.

If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.

Step 38:

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Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.

Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Don't press too hard, or you'll stretch and deform the adhesive.

Step 39:

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Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner—the pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.

Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.

At this point, you may still have [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/5PVXOAEQsFPoENVM.full|liners covering the perimeter|new_window=true], which prevent the adhesive from accidentally sticking to anything while you're reassembling your iPhone. ***Don't remove these small release liners just yet.***

Step 40: Reconnect the screen

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Use your finger to press down and connect the display connector.

To re-attach [guide|25629|wide press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Press down and connect the front sensor connector.

Align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

***This is a good time to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal it up. ***Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue.

If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.

Step 41: Install the connector covers

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Tuck the display connector cover's tab into its frame cutout and lay the cover in place.

Repeat with the front sensor connector cover.

Step 42:

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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the two connector covers.

Step 43: Remove the final liners

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While supporting the screen, use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.

Be careful not to touch the exposed adhesive.

Check the frame and screen for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

Step 44: Install the screen onto the frame

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Carefully align the screen's top clips with their frame cutouts.

Step 45:

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Lower the screen onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.

If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.

Make sure the screen edge isn't pinching any cables.

Step 46: Apply heat to the perimeter

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or an [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to heat the screen perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.

The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.

Step 47: Apply pressure to the perimeter

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Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Step 48:

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Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.

Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.

Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.

Alternatively, you can use [guide|142291|vise clamps] around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.

Step 49:

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Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.

The coins may leave a slight impression on the bottom book cover, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.

The pressure will help activate the adhesive.

Step 50: Install the pentalobe screws

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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your iPhone 16 Pro instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 64 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 16 Pro generates 72 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 89% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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