Motorola Moto G73 Screen Replacement

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a straightened paperclip into the hole adjacent to the SIM card tray.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.

Discharge your battery to 25% or less and completely power off your phone before you begin.

Take note of the following seams along the edge of the phone:

''Screen seam'': This seam separates the display panel from the frame. ***Don't pry at this seam.***

''Bezel seam'': This is where the plastic back cover meets the rest of the phone. It's held in place by plastic clips. ***This is where you should pry.***

Insert an opening tool in the bezel seam halfway between the bottom-right corner of the phone and the power button.

Insert an opening pick in the gap you just created.

Slide your opening pick toward the bottom-right corner of the back cover and release the clips.

As each clip releases, you will hear and feel a pop.

Don't slide the opening pick near the power or volume buttons.

Continue sliding your opening pick towards the bottom left corner to unclip the bottom edge of the back cover.

Slide your opening pick toward the top left corner to unclip the left side of the back cover.

Slide your pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to release the clips.

Slide your pick around the top right corner to release the last clips securing the back cover.

Stop before reaching the volume buttons. Your pick may damage their cables.

Don't try to remove the back cover all the way yet, as it's still connected to the frame by the power button cable.

With SIM card slot facing you, swing the back cover open and away from you like you're opening a book.

Rest the cover parallel to the frame.

Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the power button cable.

A small rubber arm connects the power button to its recess. Use caution to avoid tearing this piece.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to unhook the power button's rubber arm from its recess and remove it.

You're now left with the back cover.

This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Test+the+Hardware+on+Your+Motorola+Phone/154941|new_window=true|Follow this guide] to perform a hardware test. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Use a PH00 screwdriver to remove the two 3.9 mm-long screws securing the power button cable bracket.

Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grab and remove the bracket from the power button cable.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the power button's press connector.

Grab and remove the power button.

If you're using tweezers, take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight 3.9 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left corner of the cover and the motherboard.

Pry up to release the cover's small clips securing it to the frame.

***Don't pry against the battery.*** Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

Work your way around the perimeter to free the cover if it feels stuck.

Grab and remove the motherboard cover from the phone.

If you're using [product|IF145-020|tweezers], take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the battery's press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Peel the tape from the display connector.

If you are using a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers], use caution to avoid the battery.

If you're having trouble peeling the tape, [guide|25705|heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the tape for 60 seconds.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the screen's press connector.

Fold the graphite heat film away from the battery to expose the lower section of the motherboard.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the board cable's press connector.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the head of the black antenna cable.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Free the cable from the clip below the head of the connector.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

During reassembly, make sure to secure the cable to the clip below the head of the connector.

Repeat the previous step for the white antenna cable.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long screw from the bottom-right corner of the motherboard.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger between the lower left of the motherboard and the frame.

Lift upward on this bottom edge to free the motherboard from the frame.

***Don't pry against the battery.*** Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

Grab the motherboard from the bottom edge and lift it from its recess.

Be sure the loose cables don't catch on the motherboard as its removed.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight 4 mm-long screws from the loudspeaker plate.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger under bottom right corner of the loudspeaker plate.

Pry upward on the plate until it frees from its recess.

If the plate feels stuck, use an opening pick to pry around the plate's perimeter.

Grab and lift the loudspeaker plate from the frame.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the head of the white antenna cable.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Pry and disconnect the head of the black antenna cable.

Free the cable from its grounding clip in the top-right of the daughterboard.

During reassembly, make sure the cable's metal band connects to the grounding clip in the daughterboard.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the board cable's press connector.

Grab the daughterboard by its left edge to remove it from the frame.

The loose cables you just disconnected may get caught on the daughterboard. Keep the cables out of the way as you lift the daughterboard.

The vibration motor's flex cable is very fragile. Work slowly to prevent tearing the cable.

Use the pointed end of a spudger, or a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers], to peel the vibration motor's cable from the frame.

If the cable feels stuck, use a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true], hair dryer, or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive.

Use caution to not overheat the battery or surrounding components.

Remove the vibration motor from the frame.

Insert the point of a spudger into the small gap on the lower right side of the earpiece speaker's recess.

Pry up on the speaker and remove it.

During reassembly, ensure that the raised side of the connectors are toward the bottom of the device.

Grab and remove the white antenna cable from its slot in the frame.

Grab and remove the black antenna cable from the frame.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Additionally, you may use highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to further loosen the adhesive securing the battery.

Apply the isopropyl alcohol into the gaps between the sides of the battery and the frame.

Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the battery and the frame.

Pull on the suction cup and pry the battery upward.

***Don't use excessive force on the battery.*** Slow, consistent pressure is all that is required to free it from the frame.

Use two opening picks, side-by-side, if the first pick does not provide enough leverage, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/kSrMIhNDUhMNCeQ2.full|new_window=true|like this].

Remove the battery from the frame.

Don't reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.

If you're reusing your old battery, skip this step.

Peel and remove the foam strip from the bottom of the battery.

Apply the foam strip onto your new battery.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display is susceptible to heat damage.

Peel and remove the board cable from the frame.

During reassembly, apply new adhesive if necessary.

Place the sticky side of the adhesive on the frame and remove the blue liner.

The frame has very small notches to assist positioning the board ribbon cable.

To install the board cable, align the white lines on the cable with these notches in the frame.

Follow the remaining steps to prepare your new screen for reassembly.

Peel the side button flex cable from the adhesive backing.

Place the long end of the side button cable onto the left edge of the frame.

Use the alignment pegs to position the cable.

Press along the cable to adhere it to the frame.

Fold the short end of the side button cable over the edge of the frame.

Use the alignment pegs to place the cable on the frame.

Press along the cable to adhere it to the frame.

Your new screen is now prepared for reassembly.