Microsoft Surface Pro 7 Screen Replacement
Complete guide to Microsoft Surface Pro 7 screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for Microsoft Surface Pro 7. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
🔩 Replacement Parts
What You'll Need
- Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Tape the screen
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Step 2: Heat the right edge of the screen
Completely power off the Surface before you begin disassembly.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 3: Take note of the adhesive layout
Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.
The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and do not insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).
Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.
Step 4: Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening
Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the edge of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Step 5: Slide the opening pick under the screen
Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
Step 6: Cut through the screen adhesive
Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7:
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 8:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9:
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 10:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.
Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Do not insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, do not insert the pick past the bezel.
Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 11:
The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 12:
Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.
The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.
Step 13:
Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.
Insert the point of a pick under the display where you just stopped cutting. Do not insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.
Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Do not slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.
Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.
Step 14:
Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.
Step 15: Open the Surface
Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.
Do not remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.
Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.
Step 16:
Make sure you have your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and spudger within reach.
Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.
Do not put any tension on the display ribbon cables.
Use one hand to hold the screen still.
Step 17: Disconnect the battery
Use the pointed tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the battery connector.
Alternating from one side to the other, gently “walk” the connector out of its socket.
Step 18: Disconnect the display cables
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape covering the left display cable connector.
Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the tape and pry up on the connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 19:
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape securing the right display cable to the motherboard.
Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right display cable straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 20:
Remove the screen.
Once you have reached this step during reassembly, follow the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+7+Screen+Adhesive+Replacement/144382|screen adhesive replacement guide] for the remainder of the repair.
Step 21: Remove the display cables
Use an opening pick to pry up one edge of the EMI shield covering the display board.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
During reassembly, make sure the EMI shield "teeth" touch [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QxdZc1OHRO3MqwlV.full|the conductive strips on the top of the ribbon cables|new_window=true].
Step 22:
Lift the EMI shield away from the display board and remove it.
Step 23:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board.
Step 24:
Use an opening tool to pry up one end of the EMI shield covering the second display cable.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Remove the EMI shield.
During reassembly, make sure the "teeth" touch the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/qHwBos1JTRWiADYk.full|gold conductive strip|new_window=true] on the top of the ribbon cable.
Step 25:
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen.
Step 26: Disconnect the display board
Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors.
Step 27:
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board.
During reassembly, if you're installing a new screen, remove any liners on the bottom of the display cables to expose their [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/MNqhB4gtcr6VoTsQ.full|conductive strips|new_window=true].
Step 28: Remove the display board
Slide an opening pick under the display board to separate the adhesive holding it onto the back of the screen.
If the adhesive is stubborn, it may help to heat the display board using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun. Take care not to overheat the screen.
Step 29:
Remove the display board.
During reassembly, remove the adhesive from under the display board with isopropyl alcohol (≥90%) and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Then, apply new conductive adhesive, like [link|https://www.amazon.com/s?k=double-sided+copper+tape&i=industrial&crid=2NWRHVEMLN20I&sprefix=double-sided+copper+tape%2Cindustrial%2C65&ref=nb_sb_noss|double-sided copper tape|new_window=true], and secure it to the new screen.
Step 30:
Only the screen remains.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Difficult | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Microsoft Surface Pro 7 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 252 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Microsoft Surface Pro 7 generates 260 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!
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