Microsoft Surface Pro 10 Screen Replacement

If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD display.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:

These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.

The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and don't insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.

Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm) along the bottom edge.

Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.

Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.

Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.

The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.

Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.

Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.

Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.

Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.

Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.

Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.

Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair:

Use one tip of a pair of [product|IF145-020-5|angled tweezers] to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth."

Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.

Try not to deform the shields too much—you will need to reinstall them during reassembly.

To reinstall, correct any deformations to the best of your ability, make sure the "teeth" align with the rim on the motherboard, and press down on the entire perimeter of the EMI shield.

Make sure all "teeth" are snug to the metal rim and not bent underneath the EMI shield.

Make sure the "teeth" are also touching the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ZsTLUVefcIOQiH5M.full|gold conductive strips|new_window=true] on the top of ribbon cables.

Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.

Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.

Remove the screen from the Surface.

During reassembly, pause here and follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+4+Screen+Adhesive+Replacement/145715|this guide|new_window=true] to replace the screen adhesive.

Use an opening pick to pry up one edge of the EMI shield covering the display board.

Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

During reassembly, make sure the EMI shield "teeth" touch [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QxdZc1OHRO3MqwlV.full|the conductive strips on the top of the ribbon cables|new_window=true].

Lift the EMI shield away from the display board and remove it.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board.

Use an opening tool to pry up one end of the EMI shield covering the second display cable.

Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Remove the EMI shield.

During reassembly, make sure the "teeth" touch the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/qHwBos1JTRWiADYk.full|gold conductive strip|new_window=true] on the top of the ribbon cable.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen.

Use a spudger to flip up the small locking flaps on the display cable ZIF connectors.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the display cables straight out of their sockets on the display board.

During reassembly, if you're installing a new screen, remove any liners on the bottom of the display cables to expose their [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/MNqhB4gtcr6VoTsQ.full|conductive strips|new_window=true].

Slide an opening pick under the display board to separate the adhesive holding it onto the back of the screen.

If the adhesive is stubborn, it may help to heat the display board using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun. Take care not to overheat the screen.

Remove the display board.

During reassembly, remove the adhesive from under the display board with isopropyl alcohol (≥90%) and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter. Then, apply new conductive adhesive, like [link|https://www.amazon.com/s?k=double-sided+copper+tape&i=industrial&crid=2NWRHVEMLN20I&sprefix=double-sided+copper+tape%2Cindustrial%2C65&ref=nb_sb_noss|double-sided copper tape|new_window=true], and secure it to the new screen.

Only the screen remains.