MacBook Pro 16" M3 Screen Replacement

Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. ***Keep the lid closed*** until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.

Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a P5 pentalobe driver to remove the eight screws securing the lower case:

Four 9.2 mm-long screws along the back edge (near the screen hinge)

Four 5 mm-long screws along the front edge (near the trackpad)

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the lower case and the right screen hinge.

Lever your spudger against the hinge to push the lower case away from it.

Repeat for the left hinge.

After you've released the sliding clips along the back edge, four remaining clips secure the lower case to the frame:

Two clips near the cutouts in the frame

Two clips near the middle of the lower case

As you release the lower case from the frame, you'll hear and feel a distinct "pop" as each of these four clips release.

Don't insert your tool deeper than 1 cm (a little less than half an inch) near the front of the speaker cutouts to avoid damaging the speakers.

Insert the flat end of your spudger into the front of the cutout in the right side of the frame.

Slide your spudger toward the back of the cutout and pry up to release the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/XNHit5a1EDIPOytu.huge|two right-side clips|new_window=true].

Repeat for the left-side speaker cutout to release the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/54QEiqnvU2MpFxxD.huge|two left-side clips|new_window=true].

Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.

When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.

Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.

You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.1 mm-long screws securing the trackpad connector cover.

Remove the trackpad connector cover.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad press connector from the logic board.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't force it, since a misaligned connector can bend the pins, and cause permanent damage.

Light adhesive secures the trackpad cable to the battery board.

Peel the trackpad cable from the battery board and move it over the front edge of the MacBook.

Be careful not to crease or damage the cable.

The battery data cable is adhered to the battery board and logic board. In the next few steps, you'll disconnect it, separate its adhesive, and remove it.

If you don't have an iOpener, you can [guide|157348|use a hair dryer|new_window=true] to lightly heat the cable. Be careful not to overheat the battery, as doing so is a fire hazard.

Use your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the tape covering the battery data cable [guide|25629|ZIF connector|stepid=64969|new_window=true] on the battery board.

Use the point of your spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector on the battery board.

Use your tweezers to slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it from the battery board.

Use your tweezers to peel back the tape covering the battery data cable ZIF connector on the logic board.

Use the point of your spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the logic board battery data ZIF connector.

Use your tweezers to grip the neck of the cable and slide it straight out of its socket to disconnect it from the logic board.

The battery data cable is lightly adhered to the battery board and logic board.

Slide the tip of an opening pick between the upper section of the battery data cable and the logic board to separate the adhesive.

Slide your pick between the lower section of the cable and the silver wide-head screw to separate the remaining adhesive.

Remove the battery data cable.

Use a 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 3.9 mm-long wide-head screw securing the main battery connector.

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the main battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.

Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but ***no more than 45 degrees to prevent breaking it***.

For added safety, place a non-conductive barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

Use your 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the three 2.1 mm-long screws securing the antenna connector cover and bracket.

Remove the cover.

Insert one arm of your [product|IF145-020-5|angled tweezers] under the metal neck of one of the [guide|25629|antenna connectors|stepid=64972|new_window=true] and gently lift up to disconnect it.

Lift only on the metal sections of the connectors. Don't lift the cables themselves.

Repeat for the other two antenna connectors.

To reconnect antenna cables like these, hold each one in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of your spudger until the connector snaps into place.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the nine 1.6 mm-long screws securing the antenna bar.

During reassembly, don't overtighten these screws—ensure they thread in properly, then tighten only until they're snug.

Use your 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the six remaining screws securing the antenna bar:

Four 3.2 mm-long screws

Two 7.5 mm-long screws

Remove the antenna bar.

Use your 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the four 2.1 mm-long screws securing both screen connector covers.

Remove both screen connector covers.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the three screen press connectors.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up the small metal tab on the left screen-cable bracket to unclip it from the frame.

Grab the bracket and lift the cables out of their recess in the frame.

Black plastic cable buffers help route the screen cables over the frame.

Remove the left cable buffer from the frame.

The cable buffer might stay stuck in the metal bracket. If so, remove it from the bracket.

Pry up and free the right screen-cable bracket from the frame, just as you did with the left cables.

Remove the cable buffer.

During reassembly:

Insert the cable buffer into the metal bracket with the buffer's alignment pegs pointing toward the MacBook and closest to the cable's press connector.

Align the cable buffer's pegs with its holes in the frame.

Press the cable bracket onto the frame, so its metal tabs clip into place.

Use your 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.1 mm-long screws securing the lid angle sensor connector cover.

Remove the cover.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor press connector.

Use your 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.5 mm‑long screws securing each hinge cover (four screws in total).

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to slide each hinge cover away from the back edge and lift straight up to remove them.

Use a 8IP Torx Plus driver to ***slightly loosen*** the six screws securing the screen hinges.

Don't remove these screws just yet.

Make sure there aren't any cable covers, screws, or other small components that might fall out of your MacBook when you open it.

Grab the body of your MacBook and open it to a 90-degree angle.

If you plan on reusing your screen, apply a couple strips of tape to the lower corners of it to prevent scratches from the frame during removal.

Place a soft cloth on the edge of a table or your work surface.

Lay your MacBook keyboard-side down on the edge of your work surface with the screen hanging straight down.

Make sure your MacBook doesn't tip over while you work.

Keep the main body secured against your work surface and open the screen as far as it will go.

Keep your screen supported with one hand for the next two steps.

Use your 8IP Torx Plus driver to remove the six 5.2 mm-long screws securing the screen hinges.

Slowly begin to close the screen so it hangs straight down again.

Lift the left hinge up and out of its recess in the frame.

Be careful not to touch the hinge to any connectors or components on the logic board.

Repeat for the right hinge.

Remove the screen.

During reassembly, follow these instructions to align your screen hinges:

If you have blue threadlocker, apply a drop to each screw's threads to prevent them from loosening over time.

Install the hinge screws without fully tightening them. Center the hinges and check for gaps or rubbing on either side.

Fully tighten the hinge screws.

If your screen clicks or snaps when it's opened or closed, loosen the screws and realign the screen.