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MacBook Pro 16" M2 Screen Replacement

Complete guide to MacBook Pro 16" M2 screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$80 - $350
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:312 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$48 - $210
Labor$32 - $140
Total Estimated Cost$80 - $350

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 16" M2. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your MacBook for disassembly

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Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug all cables and fully shut down your MacBook.

Close the lid and flip your MacBook over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Opening the lid will power on your MacBook. If you're using macOS Big Sur v11.1 or earlier, disable this function using [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|new_window=true|this guide].

Step 2: Unfasten the lower case

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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:

Two 6.8 mm screws

Two 5.3 mm screws

Two 3.4 mm screws

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 3: Separate the lower case

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Apply a suction handle near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.

Step 4: Release the left clips

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Insert an opening pick between the lower case and the frame.

Slide the pick around the left corner to release the first set of clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip releases.

Step 5: Release the right clips

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Slide your opening pick around the right corner to release the second set of clips securing the lower case.

Step 6: Pry the lower case up

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Insert your opening pick between the lower case and the frame near the middle left screw hole.

Firmly twist the pick until the clip releases.

Repeat this procedure for the clip near the middle right screw hole.

Step 7: Release the remaining clips

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Firmly pull the lower case away from the screen hinges to release the last clips securing it to the frame.

This motion requires significant force. Don't pull the lower case up, as you may bend the clips.

If it feels stuck, pull one corner at a time.

Step 8: Remove the lower case

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Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinges. Press down and slide the lower case toward the hinges.

Once the lower case is secured near the hinges, press down firmly to engage the remaining four clips.

You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip engages.

Step 9: Remove the battery board cover

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Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to peel and remove the cover from the battery board, just above the middle battery cell.

Step 10: Disconnect the battery data cable

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Use blunt nose tweezers to gently peel back the pull tab covering the battery data connector.

Don't remove or tear the pull tab, as it's attached to the head of the connector.

Step 11:

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Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking tab securing the battery data connector.

Locking tabs on [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connectors] are fragile—be gentle with your spudger.

Step 12:

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Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grab the battery data cable pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket.

Move the cable to the left, out of the way of the battery board.

Don't strain the cable, as it's still attached to the battery board.

Step 13: Unfasten the battery connector

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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm screw securing the battery connector.

Step 14: Disconnect the battery

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Use the flat end of your spudger to slightly lift the battery connector away from the battery board.

Lifting the connector too high will break it. Angle it enough so it won't accidentally contact the battery board during repair.

Optionally, you may insert a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and the board during the repair.

Step 15: Remove the display cable bracket

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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the display cable retaining bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Step 16: Remove the display cable cover

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Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the display cable cover.

Remove the cover.

Step 17: Disconnect the display

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Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from the display board.

Step 18: Unfasten the plastic covers

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Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the plastic covers to the screen hinges, one on each side.

Step 19: Remove the plastic covers

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Remove the plastic covers from the screen hinges.

Step 20: Remove the antenna cable cover

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Peel and remove the plastic cover from the antenna cables.

During reassembly, don't worry if your foam strips are torn. Re-adhere the plastic cover as well as you can. Use small pieces of tape to secure the cover, if necessary.

Step 21: Disconnect the antenna bar

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64972|new_window=true|antenna cables] from the logic board.

Pry straight up on the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

To reconnect the cables, align the connectors directly over their sockets and press down with the flat end of a spudger until they snap into place.

Step 22: Remove the display board cable covers

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Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.5 mm screws securing the two display board cable covers.

Remove the covers.

Step 23: Unfasten the antenna bar

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Remove the sixteen screws securing the antenna bar:

Four 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws, two on each side

Twelve 1.1 mm P2 Pentalobe screws, six on each side

P2 Pentalobe screws are very small and strip easily. Make sure your driver is in good condition before applying pressure.

Step 24: Unfasten the antenna cables

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Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the antenna cables to the logic board.

Step 25: Pry up the antenna bar

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Insert your opening pick between the antenna bar and the frame.

Pry at different spots along the length of the antenna bar to free it from its recess in the frame.

Don't slide your pick, as it may damage display cables underneath the antenna bar.

Step 26: Remove the antenna bar

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Pull the left edge of the antenna bar away from the frame and feed its two antenna cables out from underneath the cutouts in the frame.

Remove the antenna bar.

Step 27: Unfasten the cable spring hinges

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Use your T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the cable spring hinges.

Step 28: Remove the spring hinges

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Grab and pull the left side of the display cable assembly away from the spring hinge.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull the spring hinge out of its recess.

Repeat this step for the right spring hinge.

Step 29: Unfasten the display assembly

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Open the screen of your MacBook and prop it on its side with its screen facing away from you.

Hold your MacBook steady during this step, as either the frame or the display assembly could fall unexpectedly at any point.

Use your T8 Torx driver to remove the three 4.4 mm screws securing the bottom hinge.

Remove the three 4.4 mm screws securing the top hinge.

Step 30: Remove the display assembly

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Keep a firm grip on both the display and main body of the MacBook. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.

Push both halves of the MacBook together so that the hinge brackets can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.

Push the main body of the MacBook away from you while pulling the display toward you to separate it.

Remove the display assembly, being careful not to snag it on any cables.

During reassembly:

Install the hinge screws loosely and adjust the display until each hinge is centered. Finally, tighten down the screws.

If your display clicks or snaps when opening or closing, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the display assembly doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the chassis edge when opening and closing.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 16" M2 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 312 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 16" M2 generates 320 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!

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