MacBook Pro 16" 2019 Screen Replacement
Complete guide to MacBook Pro 16" 2019 screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 16" 2019. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Disable Auto Boot
Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's '''Auto Boot''' feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|Use this guide] or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. ''This command may not work on all Macs.''
Power on your Mac and launch '''Terminal'''.
Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
'''sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00'''
Press '''[return]'''. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press '''[return]''' again. ''Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."''
You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.
When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:
'''sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03'''
Step 2: Remove lower case screws
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
Four 3.7 mm screws
Two 7.3 mm screws
Note how the screws come out at a slight angle—you must reinstall them the same way.
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.
Step 3: Unclip lower case
Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
Step 4:
Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
Step 5:
Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
Step 6:
Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover should pop free at this point, if they haven't already.
Don't lift more than an inch or so, and don't try to remove the lower case yet.
Step 7:
Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This may require a lot of force.
Step 8: Remove lower case
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
Step 9: Remove battery board sticker
Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
Step 10:
Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
Step 11: Disconnect battery board data cable
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connector] for the battery board data cable.
Step 12:
Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Slide parallel to the logic board. Don't pull up.
Step 13:
Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.
Step 14: Remove battery board data cable
Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.
Take care not to reinstall this cable backwards or upside-down.
Step 15: Disconnect the battery
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 6.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
Step 16:
Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
Step 17: Disconnect the display board cable
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.
Remove the display board flex cover.
Step 18:
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.
Remove the display board cable connector bracket.
Step 19:
Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
Step 20: Remove the hinge covers
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).
Step 21:
Remove both hinge covers.
Step 22: Disconnect the antenna bundle
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
Step 23:
Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.
Slide your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
Step 24: Disconnect the display board
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.
Before reinstalling these screws:
Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
Step 25: Remove the antenna assembly
Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly (eight on each side).
These small screws can strip easily, so apply firm, consistent pressure when removing.
Step 26:
Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.
Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.
Step 27:
Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.
During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.
Step 28: Disconnect the display cable cover springs
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.
Step 29: Remove some of the hinge screws
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 5.0 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.
Step 30: Disconnect the lid angle sensor
Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.5 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer and lid angle sensor connectors.
Step 31:
Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.
Remove the bracket.
Step 32:
Disconnect the lid angle sensor cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Step 33: Unfasten the lid angle sensor
Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the 1.9 mm-long screw securing the lid angle sensor.
Step 34: Remove the lid angle sensor
Use tweezers, or your fingers, to pull the lid angle sensor up from the frame and release it from its metal peg.
Remove the lid angle sensor.
Step 35:
During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.
If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.
If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.
Step 36: Protect the MacBook
If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.
Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
Step 37: Remove the remaining hinge screws
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 5.0 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).
Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
Step 38: Remove the screen
Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.
Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.
Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
Step 39:
Remove the screen.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 16" 2019 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 312 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 16" 2019 generates 320 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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