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MacBook Air 13" 2015 Screen Replacement

Complete guide to MacBook Air 13" 2015 screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$80 - $350
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:167 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$48 - $210
Labor$32 - $140
Total Estimated Cost$80 - $350

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Air 13" 2015. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1:

Step 1 - Image 1

Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

Use a [product|IF145-090|P5 Pentalobe] driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

Two 9 mm screws

Eight 2.6 mm screws

Step 2:

Step 2 - Image 1

Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

Remove the lower case and set it aside.

Step 3:

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

Step 4:

Step 4 - Image 1

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

Step 5:

Step 5 - Image 1

Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

Step 6:

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

Remove the I/O board cable.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

Step 8:

Step 8 - Image 1

Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

Step 9:

Step 9 - Image 1

Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

One 5.2 mm T5 Torx screw

One 3.3 mm T5 Torx screw

One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

Step 10:

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

Step 11:

Step 11 - Image 1

Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

Step 12:

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

Pry up from beneath the wires.

Step 13:

Step 13 - Image 1
Step 13 - Image 2

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.

Step 14:

Step 14 - Image 1

Remove the single 4.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

Step 15:

Step 15 - Image 1
Step 15 - Image 2

Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

Step 16:

Step 16 - Image 1

Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

Step 17:

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry each of the antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

Step 18:

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Disconnect the camera cable connector with the tip of a spudger.

Push first on one side of the connector, then on the other side to carefully "walk" it out of its socket.

Pull the camera cable parallel to the face of the I/O board toward the front edge of the Air to disconnect it from its socket.

Do not lift upward on this cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

Pull the plastic tab on the display data cable connector to unlock it.

Step 20:

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

Pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket.

Make sure to pull the connector parallel to the logic board, '''do not''' lift straight up from its socket.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Remove the inner four (two on each side) 5.6 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right and left display hinges to the upper case.

Leaving the outer screws in place for now will aid in disassembly.

Step 22:

Step 22 - Image 1

Gently de-route the antenna cables out of the channel cut into the upper case.

Step 23:

Step 23 - Image 1

Open the display so that it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

Step 24:

Step 24 - Image 1

While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw from the left display bracket.

Step 25:

Step 25 - Image 1

Turn the computer onto its opposite edge so the right display screw is now easily accessible.

Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

Remove the last 5.6 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

Step 26:

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Open the Air slightly to allow room for the hinges to slide out of their notches.

Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then push it back from the hinges.

Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

Step 27:

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to tuck the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth antenna back into its channel.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your MacBook Air 13" 2015 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 167 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Air 13" 2015 generates 175 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!

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