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iPhone 15 Power Button Repair

Complete guide to iPhone 15 power button repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$50 - $140
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:65 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$30 - $84
Labor$20 - $56
Total Estimated Cost$50 - $140

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Power Button Repair is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 15. This repair involves replacing the damaged input component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement input part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your iPhone for disassembly

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Let your phone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair—a charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume button and slide to power off your phone.

Step 2: Tape over any cracks

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If your screen or back glass is cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3: Mark your opening picks

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If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Step 4: Remove the pentalobe screws

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Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to remove the two 7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 6: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 7: Screen information

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As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone: one just above the action button, and the other near the middle of the left edge.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.

Step 8: Separate the bottom edge adhesive

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Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9: Heat the right edge

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Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 10: Position the opening pick

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge.

Slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the screen and toward the power button until you feel a hard stop at a clip securing the screen.

Rotate your pick so the flat edge is under the screen.

Step 11: Release the right clip

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Twist the pick to increase the gap between the screen and the frame until the right clip releases.

Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first pick.

Step 12: Separate the right edge adhesive

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Slide the first pick back to the bottom right corner of the screen.

Slide the second pick to the top right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Leave these picks inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13: Heat the top edge

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Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 14: Separate the top edge adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Slide your pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to release the two clips and adhesive securing it.

Step 15: Heat the left edge

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Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 16: Separate the left edge adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***2 mm*** along the left edge to avoid the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QXhBuOBJJOa41ccu.huge|two cables connecting the screen to the phone|new_window=true].

Rotate your pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Step 17: Prop up the screen

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Place a small box or stack of books to the left of your phone so you can prop up the screen while disconnecting its cables.

Swing up the right edge of the screen like the front cover of a book.

If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.

Prop up the screen so you can access its cables without straining them.

Step 18: Unfasten the logic board cover

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Use a Y000 screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board cover:

Four 1.6 mm‑long screws

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

Step 19: Remove the logic board cover

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Rotate the bottom of the logic board cover counterclockwise and slide the top left corner out from under the ambient light sensor cable to remove it.

During reassembly, make sure the top left corner of the cover goes [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/1NIOUKJhXcyYeLRr.full|under the ambient light sensor cable|new_window=true].

Step 20: Disconnect the battery

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Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the bottom right corner of the logic board.

To reconnect a [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true], align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. Make sure it sits flat, as the insulating rubber around the sockets might prevent it from connecting fully.

Step 21: Disconnect the screen

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Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen cable from the center of the logic board.

Step 22: Disconnect the ambient light sensor

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Gently slide the tip of an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable near the top left corner of the logic board.

Lift the cable to disconnect it.

Step 23: Remove the screen

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Remove the screen.

During reassembly, follow [guide|93983|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new adhesive and install your screen.

Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/DLQuEZf4tZ3uZOMD.full|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.

Step 24: Ambient light sensor information

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The ambient light sensor is glued down to your old screen and must be transferred to your new screen.

In the remaining steps, you'll remove this sensor so you can transfer it to your new screen.

Step 25: Remove the ambient light sensor cover screws

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Use a Phillips #000 driver to remove the two screws securing the ambient light sensor cover.

Step 26: Remove the ambient light sensor cover

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Remove the ambient light sensor cover.

Step 27: Heat the ambient light sensor adhesive

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Be careful not to overheat the screen—the plastic components can melt if they get too hot.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the ambient light sensor until it's warm to the touch.

Step 28: Pry up the sensor

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Be very gentle handing the ambient light sensor, as its cable is extremely fragile.

use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the ambient light sensor out of its enclosure.

Step 29: Reheat the ambient light sensor

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By this point, the sensor has likely cooled down.

Apply more heat until the entire glued down part of the sensor is warm to the touch.

Step 30:

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Insert the tip of an opening pick under the bottom right corner of the sensor.

Slide the pick under the sensor and lift until you can grip it with your fingers.

Step 31: Remove the ambient light sensor

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Use your fingers to slowly peel up and remove the sensor.

Step 32: Unfasten the loudspeaker

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Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the loudspeaker:

One 2.7 mm‑long screw

Three 2 mm‑long screws

Step 33: Remove the loudspeaker

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A [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/sO2VxxpgVgvKLuDR.full|plastic buffer|new_window=true] is adhered to the top edges of the loudspeaker and Taptic Engine.

Lift the bottom edge of the loudspeaker until you can grab it with your fingers.

Peel the loudspeaker from the plastic buffer on its top edge and remove it.

Step 34: Disconnect the Taptic Engine

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector.

Step 35: Unfasten the Taptic Engine

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Use a Phillips #000 screwdriver to remove the two 2 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 36: Remove the Taptic Engine

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Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 37: Adhesive information

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Three sections of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/45779/ask-ifixit-what-is-stretch-release-adhesive-and-why-do-we-love-it|stretch release adhesive|new_window=true] secure the battery to the frame—two along the bottom and one on top.

Each strip has a black pull tab at its end, which is lightly adhered to the edge of the battery.

In the following steps, you'll pull each tab out from underneath the battery.

The strips loosen when stretched, but might break off before you can fully remove them, especially the top edge strip. If any break, don't worry! Keep reading for an alternate way to remove the battery.

Step 38: Separate the pull tabs

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Don't puncture or dent the battery with your tool, as it can leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire if damaged.

Use the tip of an opening pick to gently unstick an edge of an adhesive pull tab from the edge of the battery.

Use blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grip the edge of the pull tab and pull it completely off the edge of the battery.

Repeat for the other two pull tabs.

Step 39: Remove the stretch release adhesive

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Pull one of the pull tabs out from under the battery until you can grip it with your fingers or [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/gstgPwAPTUNJJtPU.huge|wrap it around your tool|new_window=true].

Hold the phone steady using the edges of the frame—don't press down on the battery.

Pull the strip slowly, evenly, and at a low angle without dragging on other components.

Continue pulling, re-gripping or wrapping it around your tool as you go, until the strip fully releases from under the battery.

If the strip breaks off, try to retrieve it. If you can't grip it from under the battery, move on to the next step.

Repeat this step for the other two strips.

Step 40: Alternate method to remove the battery

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If you removed all three stretch release adhesive strips, congratulations—you can now [guide|166394|remove the battery|stepid=350222|new_window=true]! If not, ***follow the next two steps*** to separate the adhesive with isopropyl alcohol and a plastic card.

If the top strip remains, prop up the top edge of the phone.

If either of the bottom strips remain, prop up the left edge of the phone (the side with the volume buttons).

Use a pipette or syringe to apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the elevated edge of the battery.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.

Step 41: Pry up the battery

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Don't bend or crease your battery. If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Insert the short edge of a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] between the bottom edge of the battery and the frame.

Be careful not to scrape the frame underneath the battery—the wireless charging coil is exposed near the center.

Gently pry up the battery until the adhesive fully separates.

Depending on how strong your adhesive is, this may take some time. Allow up to a minute of constant pressure for the adhesive to loosen.

Step 42: Remove the battery

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Remove the battery.

To install a new battery:

Clean your frame with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free or microfiber cloth.

***Before applying adhesive***, temporarily reconnect your new battery and place it in its recess to check if it fits and that the cable reaches the socket on the logic board. Disconnect the battery before continuing.

Check out [guide|137171|this guide|new_window=true] to apply new [product|IF145-458|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true] to your battery, if it doesn't already come with adhesive installed.

If you don't have stretch release adhesive, use [product|IF317-072-2|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] to secure it.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$84)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($50-$140)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your iPhone 15 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 65 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 15 generates 68 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 96% reduction in carbon emissions!

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