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iPhone 15 Plus Screen Replacement

Complete guide to iPhone 15 Plus screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$80 - $350
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:62 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$48 - $210
Labor$32 - $140
Total Estimated Cost$80 - $350

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for iPhone 15 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly

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Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.

Step 2: Tape over any cracks

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If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 3: Mark your opening picks

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If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Apple sells an ***Adhesive Cutter*** tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their [link|https://selfservicerepair.com|Self Repair Store|new_window=true].

Step 4: Remove the pentalobe screws

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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 6: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the screen and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Step 7: Screen information

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As you slice the adhesive securing the screen in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There are two delicate cables connecting the screen to the phone, one just above the mute switch, and the other about halfway between the volume down button and the bottom of the phone.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in these locations to avoid bending the contacts.

Step 8: Separate the bottom edge adhesive

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Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Step 9: Heat the right edge

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Heat the right edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 10: Separate the right edge adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the right edge.

Insert a second opening pick to the right of the first one.

Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to release the clips and separate the adhesive securing it.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

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Heat the top edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 12: Separate the top edge adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Insert a third opening pick in the top right corner and slide it along the top edge to release the two clips and adhesive securing it.

Step 13: Heat the left edge

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Heat the left edge of the screen until it's hot to the touch.

Step 14: Separate the left edge adhesive

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Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the left edge to avoid the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/PBBKiEACUXupWaQR.huge|two cables connecting the screen to the phone|new_window=true].

Slide your pick around the top left corner of the screen and along the left edge to release the clips and separate the adhesive securing it.

Step 15: Swing open the screen

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Gently swing open the screen over the left edge of the phone.

If the screen feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Rest the screen against a box or similar object so it doesn't strain the cables.

Step 16: Unfasten the front sensor connector cover

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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the front sensor connector cover.

Step 17: Remove the cover

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Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift the cover to a 90-degree angle.

Unhook the cover from its slot in the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Step 18: Disconnect the front sensor

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Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the front sensor press connector.

To reconnect a [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true], align it over its socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side.

Step 19: Unfasten the screen connector cover

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Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the screen connector cover.

Step 20: Remove the cover

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Use tweezers to lift the cover and unlatch it from its hook on the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Step 21: Disconnect the screen

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Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.

Step 22: Remove the screen

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Remove the screen.

Step 23: End of disassembly

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Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show you how to reassemble your device.

When reconnecting press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip or spudger—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

Reassembly photos are of the iPhone 15 non‑Plus. It may look a little different, but the procedure is correct.

Step 24: Remove the screen adhesive

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Be careful not to damage any of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/CaRm2SCSnETPoO2w.huge|spring contacts|new_window=true] as you clean the frame.

This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your phone. Connect the screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

The adhesive remaining on your phone is difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].

Use a spudger to push the screen adhesive up until you can grab it with a pair of tweezers.

Use a pair of tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the adhesive around the entire perimeter of the iPhone.

Step 25:

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Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.

Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.

Step 26: Ambient light sensor information

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The ambient light sensor is located behind the screen, directly beneath the cut‑out for the Face ID sensors.

Check if the replacement screen comes with one installed. If it does, skip to [guide|165669|this step|stepid=402058].

Step 27: Remove the ambient light sensor bracket

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the ambient light sensor bracket.

Step 28:

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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift and remove the ambient light sensor bracket.

Step 29: Heat the ambient light sensor

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor cable.

Step 30: Pry up the ambient light sensor

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Use a spudger to pry up the ambient light sensor.

Step 31: Peel up the ambient light sensor cable

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Gently slide an opening pick under the ambient light sensor cable, starting near the sensor and moving towards to the opposite corner until it's free from the screen.

If the adhesive doesn't peel up easily, apply more heat.

Step 32: Remove the ambient light sensor

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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the ambient light sensor off of the screen.

Step 33: Prepare the ambient light sensor

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Use tweezers to reposition any adhesive that may have covered the ambient light sensor during removal. The adhesive should form a border around the raised white rectangle.

If the adhesive was damaged or stayed with the old screen, replace it with a 1 mm wide strip of [product|IF317-072-6|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] along its bottom border.

Step 34: Place the ambient light sensor

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Align the ambient light sensor with its recess in the back of the screen.

Use a spudger or your finger to press the ambient light sensor into its recess.

Step 35: Warm the ambient light sensor

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Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to soften the adhesive under the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor cable. It only needs to be warm—not hot.

Step 36: Press the ambient light sensor

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Use your finger to press down the ambient light sensor cable.

If the ambient light sensor cable isn't sticking, apply a few small pieces of double‑sided tape, like [product|IF317-072-6|Tesa tape|new_window=true], to the back of the sensor cable.

Step 37: Install the ambient light sensor bracket

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Use tweezers or your fingers to hook the ambient light sensor bracket over the back of the sensor and set it into place.

Step 38:

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the ambient light sensor bracket.

Step 39: Orient the adhesive

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Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the front‑facing camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.

Your adhesive may look slightly different.

Step 40: Apply the adhesive

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Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off of the adhesive starting from the bottom, but do not remove the liner all the way.

While holding the back liner out of the way, carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive to the bottom edge of the iPhone's frame.

Step 41:

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When the adhesive is aligned, use the flat end of a spudger, or your finger, to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.

Step 42:

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Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.

If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.

If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.

Step 43: Press the adhesive into place

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Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the front-facing camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.

Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive firmly into place all around the iPhone.

Be careful not to press on the camera, spring contacts, or other internal components.

Step 44: Remove the top liner

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Insert the point of a spudger under the top liner's hole at the bottom of the frame.

Pry up to separate the liner from the frame—enough to grip it with your fingers.

Your pull tab may be in a different location. Make sure you're pulling the full-size top liner, ***not*** the thin liners under it.

Step 45:

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Peel back the top liner and remove it.

Step 46: Prop up the screen

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Prop the screen up along the left edge of the iPhone frame, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.

Step 47: Connect the screen

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Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the screen and front sensor press connectors.

Step 48:

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Insert the top of the screen connector cover into its slot in the frame and lay it over the press connector.

Step 49:

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Insert the front sensor connector cover into its slot in the frame at a 90‑degree angle vertically.

Lay the cover over the press connector.

Step 50: Install the cover screws

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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the two 0.9 mm‑long screws securing the front sensor connector and screen connector covers.

Step 51: Remove the final adhesive liners

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As you remove the liners in this step, the adhesive will be fully exposed. Make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.

Use a spudger, or your fingers, to separate the pull tabs at the bottom right corner of the frame.

Step 52:

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Remove the narrow liner covering the adhesive along the right and top edges of the frame.

Step 53:

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Remove the liner along the bottom edge of the frame.

Step 54:

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Without letting the screen touch the adhesive, hold the screen over the phone so you can access the final liner along the left edge of the phone.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the final liner along the left edge of the phone.

Step 55: Place the screen

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Lay the screen straight down onto the frame and press until the clips engage.

Press around the perimeter of the screen to engage all clips.

Step 56: Heat the screen

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To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the screen using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.

If you have [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true], use them to strengthen the bond of your new adhesive. If not, keep reading for more ways to secure the screen.

Step 57: Press the screen

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To evenly compress your iPhone and strengthen the bond of the screen to the frame, you need to account for the camera bump.

If you have the box your iPhone came in, take the lid and place it on a flat surface.

If you don't have your original box, ***skip this step for an alternate method***.

Place your iPhone screen-side-up in the lid of your box with the camera bump in its recess.

Find something close to the size of your iPhone, but taller than the sides of the box. Stack it on top of the iPhone, followed by a few heavy objects.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

Step 58:

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If you don't have the original box for your iPhone, follow the next three steps for another method to evenly compress the screen.

Place the iPhone screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.

Apply tape to the back glass to protect its finish.

Step 59:

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Place evenly spaced layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.

Stack them to a consistent height taller than the camera bump.

Step 60:

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Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on your iPhone.

The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

Step 61: Install the pentalobe screws

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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your iPhone 15 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 62 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new iPhone 15 Plus generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 89% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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