iPad Pro 12.9" Gen 3 Power Button Repair

Allow your iPad's battery to fully drain before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Unplug any cables and fully shut down your iPad.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the screen for two minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the iPad—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

Pull the blue handle backward to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

Position the suction cups near the middle of the right edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the right edge of the iPad.

For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|check out this guide].

Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next step.***

If your screen is badly cracked, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Tape+Over+a+Cracked+Phone+Screen/140533|covering it with a layer of clear packing tape|new_window=true] may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/NgVMfmOgJwEalMFF.full|new_window=true|very strong tape] may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Apply a suction handle to the screen as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the frame and screen.

The large screen is very fragile. Only create a gap big enough to insert an opening pick.

If you're having trouble making a gap, reapply a heated iOpener to the right edge for two minutes.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging the screen.

There are two ***2 cm-long*** magnets along the right edge of the screen. Don't insert your opening pick more than ***2 mm*** to avoid damaging the screen in these locations:

The first magnet begins about ***3 cm*** from the top of the iPad.

The second magnet begins about ***3 cm*** from the bottom of the iPad.

Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than ***5 mm***.

Slide your opening pick along the right edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Angle your pick downward and insert up to a ***2 mm*** depth near the magnet cutouts and ***5 mm*** everywhere else.

Leave the pick inserted in the bottom right corner before continuing.

Slide your opening pick around the bottom right corner of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the screen for two minutes.

Insert a second opening pick under the bottom right corner of the screen.

Don't insert your opening pick more than ***5 mm***.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom adhesive.

Rotate your opening pick around the bottom left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen for two minutes.

There are three cutouts along the left edge of the screen where the adhesive is very thin. Don't insert your opening pick more than ***2 mm*** to avoid damaging the screen at these cutouts:

The upper cutout begins ***4 cm*** from the top of the frame and is ***3 cm*** long.

The middle cutout begins ***12 cm*** from the top of the frame and is ***3 cm*** long.

The bottom cutout is ***4 cm*** from the bottom of the frame and is ***3 cm*** long.

Everywhere else, don't insert your opening pick more than ***5 mm***.

Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide your pick to the top left corner to slice the left adhesive, making sure to avoid the cutouts shown in the previous step.

Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner before continuing.

Slide your opening pick around the top left corner of the screen.

Leave your pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the screen for two minutes.

While the top edge adhesive softens, note the following:

There are two ambient light sensors near the corners. ***Don't insert your pick more than 1 mm here***.

The front-facing camera and additional sensors are in the center of the top edge. ***Don't insert your pick here***—there is less than 1 mm of adhesive and you may damage the components.

For everywhere else, don't insert your pick more than ***5 mm*** to avoid damaging the screen.

Slide your opening pick 9 cm toward the top right edge, stopping just before the camera assembly.

If you slide any farther, you risk damaging the camera's sensors.

Leave your pick inserted before continuing.

Insert a new opening pick on the other side of the camera assembly, 4 cm from the previous pick.

Slide your pick to the top right corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Don't fully remove the screen, as it's attached to the frame by several cables.

Grab two opposing corners of the screen and lift up to separate it from the frame.

If the screen feels stuck, slide your opening picks around the perimeter to separate any remaining adhesive. Pay attention to sensitive areas shown in previous steps.

Shift the screen towards the bottom right corner of the frame until the ribbon cable near the top edge is uncovered.

Throughout this guide, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|new_window=true|keep track of each screw] and reinstall it exactly where it came from.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the upper cable shield:

One 2.0 mm-long screw

One 1.8 mm-long screw

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPad and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your iPad back down before you continue working.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to grab and remove the upper cable shield.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the upper sensors press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Grip the right edge of the screen and open it like a book.

Don't pull up on the screen—the display cables are still attached.

Lay the screen down over the left edge of the iPad.

Be careful not to strain the display cables.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the display cable bracket:

Four 1.1 mm-long screws

One 2.0 mm-long screw

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the display cable bracket.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the SIM card reader cable press connector.

The SIM card reader cable is lightly adhered to the battery.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the SIM card reader cable away from the battery connector.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two top display cable press connectors.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two bottom display cable press connectors.

Remove the screen.

Metal tape conceals three screws that secure the logic board cover.

Use an opening tool to scrape the metal tape off the logic board enough to grab it with [product|IF145-020|tweezers].

Use tweezers to peel up the tape at the screw locations.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the logic board cover:

Five 2.0 mm-long screws

Three 1.1 mm-long screws

Peel back the logic board cover and remove it.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three front camera assembly cable press connectors.

The left front camera cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to peel the left cable off the logic board.

The middle front camera cable is lightly adhered to the logic board.

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel the middle cable off the logic board.

Use a T-3 screwdriver to remove the two 2.2 mm-long screws securing the front camera assembly.

The front camera is strongly adhered to the frame with heat-resistant epoxy. Work slowly to avoid damaging surrounding components.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the front camera, between the middle and right cables.

Twist the spudger to separate the epoxy securing the front camera.

This may require significant force.

Remove the front camera.

During reassembly, use a spudger to scrape off any remaining epoxy before reinstalling the front camera.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.0 mm-long screw securing the bottom speaker bracket to the logic board.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the bottom speaker bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four bottom speaker connectors.

Pry up under the cables, as close to the connector head as possible.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Smart Connector press connector at the bottom of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the four top speaker connectors.

Pry up under the cables, as close to the connector head as possible.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera cable press connector.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top microphone press connector.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna by prying as close to its [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64972|new_window=true|coaxial connector] as possible.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the top antenna press connector.

Don't bend this cable more than needed, as it might break.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom antenna press connector.

Don't bend this cable more than needed, as it might break.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable by prying as close to its [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64972|new_window=true|coaxial connector] as possible.

Peel the Wi-Fi cable toward the right edge of the iPad.

Continue peeling the cable toward the bottom edge of the iPad to separate it from the logic board.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left microphone and Apple Pencil charger cable press connectors.

Apply high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the right edge of the logic board.

Tilt the right edge of the iPad upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the logic board.

Wait for one minute to allow the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

At this point, you can remove the battery blocker card strips.

Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the logic board to separate the bottom adhesive.

If you're having trouble inserting the pick, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/obrI2cbvoxKJFM1Q.full|new_window=true|apply isopropyl alcohol] directly to the top edge.

Leave the opening pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick under the top right edge of the logic board.

Slide the opening pick toward the battery connector to separate the right adhesive.

Leave the opening pick inserted next to the battery connector to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert a new opening pick under the logic board across from the battery connector.

Slide the opening pick toward the bottom of the iPad to separate the remaining adhesive.

At this point, the logic board should be fully separated from the frame. If the logic board still feels stuck, slide an opening pick around its perimeter to slice any remaining adhesive.

Remove the logic board.

During reassembly, make sure all of the connectors are above the logic board before securing it back to the frame.

The next two steps will demonstrate how to remove the 12 stretch-release adhesive strips.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to carefully peel and separate the pull tab from the battery—enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.

If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt nose tweezers, and continue pulling—but don't pry under the battery.

If you removed all of the stretch-release adhesive, skip to [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPad+Pro+12.9-Inch+3rd+Gen+Battery+Replacement/157139#s328754|this step]. Otherwise, follow the next two steps for each battery cell with remaining adhesive.

Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the battery.

Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Insert a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] into the gap between the battery and the frame.

Use the plastic card to slice the adhesive underneath the battery.

Repeat for each battery cell with remaining stretch-release adhesive.

The next two steps demonstrate how to remove the adhesive along the outer edge of the left battery cell.

Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the edge of the left battery cell.

Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Insert a plastic card under the left battery cell.

Slide the card along the outer edge of the battery to separate the adhesive.

Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the left battery board.

Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Insert an opening pick under the left battery board to create an initial gap.

Slide the plastic card under the left battery board to separate its adhesive.

If your SIM card reader cable is not adhered to the battery board, skip this step.

Peel the SIM card reader cable toward the right edge of the iPad to separate it from the battery board.

Apply high-strength (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the right battery board.

Tilt the iPad to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

Insert an opening pick under the right battery board to create an initial gap.

Slide the plastic card under the right battery board to separate its adhesive.

At this point, the battery should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges, slide an opening pick around the perimeter of the battery.

Remove the battery.

During reassembly, remove the old adhesive with tweezers and isopropyl alcohol.

If there are any drops of isopropyl alcohol remaining, use a lint-free cloth to wipe them away or allow the iPad to air dry before installing a new battery.

Apply [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+To+Apply+Stretch+Release+Battery+Adhesive/137171|stretch-release adhesive strips|new_window=true], double sided adhesive tape, or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|pre-cut adhesive|new_window=true] to secure the new battery.

Don't reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.