Huawei P30 Pro Screen Replacement
Complete guide to Huawei P30 Pro screen replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Screen Replacement is one of the most common repairs for Huawei P30 Pro. This repair involves replacing the damaged display component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement display part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Rear Glass
Before you begin, switch off your phone.
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the back of the phone to loosen the adhesive beneath the back cover. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.
Step 2:
Secure a suction handle to the bottom of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.
If the phone's rear glass is cracked, the suction handle may not stick. Try [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/4MmKE22Cy2MavVZU|lifting it with strong tape|new_window=true], or superglue the suction handle in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.
Lift the back cover with the suction handle to create a small gap between the cover and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
If you have trouble, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner.
Step 3:
Insert a second opening pick and slide it to the bottom left corner to cut the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 4:
Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.
In the next few steps whilst cutting around the rear camera make sure you only use the tip of the opening pick to avoid smearing the lens or damaging the camera.
Slide the tip of the opening pick from the bottom left corner along the side of the phone to cut the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in its place at the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 5:
If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] to reheat it.
Insert a fourth opening pick under the top left corner of the back cover.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 6:
Insert a fifth opening pick at the top right corner of the phone.
Slide the opening pick along the right side to cut the remaining adhesive.
Step 7:
Lift and remove the back cover.
Before installing fresh adhesive and reassembling, remove any remaining adhesive from the phone, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Secure the new back cover with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. [guide|126585|After installing the rear glass], apply pressure for several minutes to help the adhesive form a good bond, such as by placing it under a stack of heavy books.
Step 8: Motherboard Cover with NFC & Charging Coil
Remove the ten Phillips #00 screws (4.3 mm length).
Step 9:
Slide an opening pick under the black adhesive at the bottom right of the charging coil.
Carefully loosen the adhesive with the opening pick.
Step 10:
Slide an opening pick under the black adhesive at the bottom left of the charging coil.
Carefully loosen the adhesive with the opening pick.
Step 11:
Slide an opening pick under the left side of the motherboard cover.
Unhinge the left side of the motherboard cover by slightly rotating the opening pick.
Step 12:
Push the motherboard cover out of the sockets at the top edge of the phone beginning with the top left corner.
Remove the motherboard cover including the NFC and charging coil.
Step 13: Battery Disconnect
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.
When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
Step 14: Daughterboard Cover
Remove the five Phillips #00 screws (4.3 mm length).
Some of these screws may be hidden under adhesive. Carefully peel the adhesive to uncover these screws.
Step 15:
Slide an opening pick under the top edge of the daughterboard cover.
Pry up and unhinge the daughterboard cover by slightly rotating the opening pick.
Step 16:
Remove the daughterboard cover.
Step 17: Main Flex Cable Connectors
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left main flex cable connector from the motherboard.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 18:
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right main flex cable connector from the motherboard.
Step 19:
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the main flex cable connector from the daughterboard.
Step 20:
Remove the main flex cable including the charging port by lifting it upwards and then pulling it in the direction of the motherboard.
Step 21: Battery
Peel the orange adhesive strip labeled with a '''1''' off the battery. The orange adhesive tape will rip along a small perforated line.
Step 22:
Peel the orange adhesive strip labeled with a '''2''' off the battery. The orange adhesive tape will rip along a small perforated line.
Step 23:
Peel the orange adhesive strip labeled with a '''3''' off the battery.
Pull up the orange adhesive strip to lift the battery out of its recess.
Although these new adhesive tabs are supposed to make the battery removal easier, these may require some force. In case you're having trouble removing the battery, you can apply [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|a heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the center of the display, to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 24:
Swing the battery up to an upright position.
Peel the battery off the remaining adhesive.
Remove the battery.
During re-assembly, temporarily re-connect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it is seated.
Step 25:
Peel the battery's adhesive sticker off the midframe.
This step is mandatory if you are replacing the screen. However it is highly recommended to use a fresh adhesive sticker as well, when installing a new battery.
Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the phone at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place.
Step 26: OLED Screen & Digitizer
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display flex cable from the motherboard.
Step 27: OLED Screen & Digitizer
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the screen and all edges of the phone for at least two minutes, to loosen the adhesive.
Step 28:
Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup to the left edge of the phone.
Pull the suction cup upwards and insert an opening pick in the gap between the display glass and the plastic bezel.
Cut the adhesive by sliding the opening pick to the top left corner of the phone.
Step 29:
Insert a second opening pick and slide it to the bottom left corner of the phone to cut the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in their place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 30:
Insert a third opening pick under the bottom left corner of the phone.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
Leave the opening pick in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 31:
Insert a fourth opening pick at the bottom right corner of the phone.
Slide the opening pick along the right edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
If cutting becomes too difficult, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|reheat|new_window=true] and reapply the iOpener.
Step 32:
Insert a fifth opening pick at the top right corner of the phone.
When nearing the front facing camera, only work with the tip of the opening pick to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.
Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to cut the remaining adhesive.
Don't try to remove the display all the way yet—the display cable is still threaded through the frame and adhered on the inner side of the midframe.
Step 33:
Thread the display flex cable through the gap in the midframe and remove the display.
Before installing a new display, remove all traces of the old adhesive from the frame, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%) and a lint-free cloth.
The best way to secure the new screen is with a sheet of [guide|113604|custom-cut double-sided tape]. Apply the tape to the back of the screen, then carefully feed the display cable through the frame. Align the screen and press it into place.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$210)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$350)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Huawei P30 Pro instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 57 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Huawei P30 Pro generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 8 kg of CO₂. That's a 88% reduction in carbon emissions!
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