Google Pixel 7a Screen Replacement

Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your phone and fully power it down.

Glass shards can complicate disassembly—or worse, cause injury. If your phone has a cracked screen, follow these steps:

Apply overlapping strips of packing tape to the cracked glass until the whole screen is covered.

Only cover the glass itself—don't stick any tape to the frame.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

The screen is strongly adhered to the frame, has no clips, and resists flexing. It requires significant heat to soften the adhesive underneath.

Use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate to heat the top edge of the screen until it's almost too hot to touch.

Be careful not to overheat the phone—the battery and plastic components are susceptible to heat damage. Stop heating if the frame becomes too hot to touch.

Inserting an opening pick is very difficult. Be patient and reheat the screen at any point if it feels stuck.

Apply a suction handle to the center of the top edge of the screen.

If you can't apply a suction handle to a broken or uneven screen, try [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ASxjs3yA1It1qQHm.huge|folding a strong piece of tape|new_window=true] into a handle.

Don't insert your pick deeper than 2 mm, as you risk damaging the front-facing camera.

Pull up on the suction handle with a strong, steady force.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/jTap6qAWb3RoxKkd.huge|left side of the earpiece speaker cutout|new_window=true].

Firmly press the pick into the cutout and lower it flat to the screen until it slides under the glass.

If your pick is too thick to slide under the glass, try a thinner object like the flat edge of a [product|IF145-259|Jimmy|new_window=true].

Don't insert your pick deeper than 2 mm, as you might damage the front-facing camera.

Slide your pick back and forth across the top edge of the screen to separate the adhesive.

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm, as you might damage the spacers along the right edge of the frame.

For a visual reference, you can measure 3 mm from the tip and [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/W2PlcjxfdWMLXoUd.huge|new_window=true|mark your pick] with a permanent marker.

Slide your pick down the right edge to separate the adhesive.

If you plan on reusing any components on your screen, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm, as you might damage the LCD panel or connectors.

Slide your pick to the bottom left corner to separate the bottom edge adhesive.

If you plan on reusing any components from your screen, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm, as you might damage the connectors.

Slide your pick to the top left corner to separate the left edge adhesive.

Swing the right edge of the screen open, like turning the page of a book.

Be careful not to strain the screen cable.

Lay the screen over the left edge of the frame.

If the front sensor gasket sticks to the screen, place it back onto [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/uDVHtB2PsKnutD6R.full|the sensor in the recess of the frame|new_window=true]. Orient the gasket so that the smaller cutout is closest to the front-facing camera.

Move the flap of graphite film away from the screen connector.

Use your 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the single 2 mm screw securing the screen connector cover.

While the Pixel 7a uses [link|https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx#Torx_Plus|Torx Plus|new_window=true] screws, standard Torx drivers still work. You may use a T3 Torx driver to remove this screw. ***Make sure to apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.***

Remove the cover.

Use the point of your spudger or a fingernail to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.

To reconnect a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|new_window=true|press connector], align it over the socket and gently press down on one side until it clicks into place, then press down on the other side. It might take a few tries to align the connector.

Remove the screen.

***The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.***

To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:

When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.

When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.

The underside of the battery is exposed through a small cutout in the frame—be careful not to damage it with your tool.

Use blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to peel and remove the square piece of adhesive near the battery cutout.

If you're reusing your original screen, peel and remove the old adhesive from the perimeter of the screen.

Use a pipette or syringe to apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the perimeter of the frame.

Wipe the residue away using a lint-free or [product|IF145-284|microfiber cloth].

If you're reusing your screen, repeat this step along its perimeter, as well.

Peel the square piece of screen adhesive from its large liner.

Apply the adhesive to the frame in the same location as the old adhesive, just below the battery cutout.

If your screen already comes with adhesive pre-installed, remove its liner and [guide|161581|skip down five steps|stepid=342110] to continue reassembly.

Before removing any liners from the screen adhesive, hold it over the frame to make sure it's oriented correctly.

Make sure the blue adhesive liner is facing up and the tab cutout is to the left of the front-facing camera.

Take your time aligning the adhesive with the frame—it's very sticky and can't be moved after you apply it.

Peel up the right half of the large adhesive liner. Don't remove the whole liner, yet.

Hold the adhesive by its short edges, with the right long edge of the liner folded back to expose the adhesive.

Lay the right long edge of the adhesive onto the frame.

Slowly lay the rest of the adhesive onto the frame, peeling away the large liner as you go.

Use the flat end of your spudger to press along the perimeter of the adhesive and secure it to the frame.

Grab the blue liner pull tab in the upper left corner.

Slowly peel and remove the liner.

If the adhesive starts to peel up with the liner, check that you’ve pushed all of it into place with your spudger. If it continues to peel up, hold it down with the point of your spudger as you go.

Apply a suction handle to the left side of the replacement screen, with the handle facing left.

Prop up your screen on the left side of the frame.

Connect the screen cable by aligning it over the socket and pressing on one side until it clicks into place before fully pressing it down.

Insert the screen connector cover into its slot in the logic board.

Use your T3 Torx driver to install the 2 mm 3IP Torx Plus screw and secure the screen connector cover.

Peel and remove the blue liner from the square adhesive on the frame.

Your replacement screen may have extra protective liners covering the front camera or sensors. ***Check the entire screen and remove any remaining liners.***

Hold the screen just above the frame by the suction handle.

Use a spudger to fold the flap of graphite film back over the screen cable.

Press the screen into place.

Remove the suction handle.

For a better seal, lightly warm the screen with a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate before pressing around the perimeter.

Firmly press around the perimeter of the screen to secure it to the frame.