Skip to main content
🔧
HowMuchToFixAI for a Greener Future
Audio
moderate

Nothing Phone (1) Microphone Repair

Complete guide to Nothing Phone (1) microphone repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$45 - $130
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:58 kg

🌍 Share Your Environmental Impact

Inspire others to repair instead of replace! Share how much CO₂ you're saving.

Share your impact:

💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$27 - $78
Labor$18 - $52
Total Estimated Cost$45 - $130

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Microphone Repair is one of the most common repairs for Nothing Phone (1). This repair involves replacing the damaged audio component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement audio part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Heat the rear glass

Step 1 - Image 1

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 2: Insert an opening pick

Step 2 - Image 1
Step 2 - Image 2

Secure a suction handle to the bottom edge of the rear glass, as close to the edge as possible.

If the rear glass is cracked, the suction handle may not stick. Try [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/4MmKE22Cy2MavVZU|lifting it with strong tape|new_window=true], or superglue the suction handle in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.

Lift the rear glass with the suction handle to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame.

If you're having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 3: Slice the adhesive

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.

Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 4: Slice the adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

When you slice near the glyph, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~2-3 mm) to avoid damaging the LEDs.

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] for one to two minutes to reheat it.

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner of your phone.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5:

Step 5 - Image 1
Step 5 - Image 2

Insert a fourth opening pick underneath the top left corner of your phone.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 6:

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Insert a fifth opening pick underneath the top right corner.

Slide the opening pick along the right edge of the rear glass to slice the remaining adhesive.

At this point, the rear glass should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the glass, use an opening pick to separate any remaining adhesive.

Step 7: Remove the rear glass

Step 7 - Image 1
Step 7 - Image 2

Remove the rear glass.

Apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Since the rear glass of the Nothing Phone (1) is transparent a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Dust-Blower/IF145-064?o=1|new_window=true|dust blower] may come in handy for cleaning before installing a new rear glass.

Step 8: Remove the plastic cover

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

The plastic covering the earpiece speaker is held in place by mild adhesive. If you're having a hard time removing it, apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener] for 1-2 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Insert an opening pick underneath the grey plastic cover at the top edge of your phone.

Use your opening pick to pry up the plastic cover.

Remove the plastic cover.

Step 9: Unfasten the earpiece speaker screws

Step 9 - Image 1

Use a Torx T5 screwdriver to remove the two 4.2 mm-long screws securing the earpiece speaker.

Step 10: Remove the earpiece speaker

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker.

Use your spudger to pry up the earpiece speaker.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the earpiece speaker.

Step 11: Disconnect the flash assembly LED glyph cables

Step 11 - Image 1
Step 11 - Image 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the flash assembly cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the LED glyph cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 12: Remove the recording indicator light cover

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick underneath the recording indicator light cover at the top right corner of the screen.

Use your opening pick to pry up the plastic cover.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the recording indicator light cover.

Step 13: Remove the bottom LED glyph assembly

Step 13 - Image 1
Step 13 - Image 2

Be very careful when working on the bottom LED assembly. There's a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/YsuiThHvALIaMSi1.full|new_window=true|cable running underneath] its whole surface that can be damaged easily.

The bottom LED assembly is held in place by small pieces of adhesive.

Slide an opening pick underneath the right, bottom and left edge of the bottom LED assembly to carefully separate it from the daughterboard cover.

Do not slide the opening pick deeper than shown in the photos. Otherwise you risk damaging the LED cable.

Step 14: Fold over the bottom LED assembly

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

The bottom LED assembly is still held in place by a small piece of adhesive sitting between the cable winds. Avoid straining or tearing the cable when folding the assembly over.

Use a pair of blunt nosed tweezers and carefully fold the bottom LED assembly over to get free access to the LED cable connector.

Step 15: Open the connector bracket

Step 15 - Image 1
Step 15 - Image 2

The LED connector bracket sits very tight and may require some force to open it.

Insert one arm of a pair of tweezers into the gap at the right side of the connector bracket.

Push your tweezers toward the left edge of the phone to free the closure flap of the connector bracket.

If you're struggling to free the flap, pull the black rubber piece to the left to give the bracket more room.

Lift the connector bracket with your tweezers to access the LED connector.

Step 16: Disconnect the LED cable

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the LED cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 17: Remove the bottom LED assembly

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bottom LED assembly.

Step 18: Unfasten the daughterboard cover screws

Step 18 - Image 1

Use a Torx T5 screwdriver to remove the five 4.2 mm-long screws securing the daughterboard cover.

The center-most screw is covered by a white sticker.

Step 19: Remove the plastic shield

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

The grey plastic shield on top of the daughterboard cover is held in place by mild adhesive.

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully separate the grey plastic shield from the daughterboard cover and remove it.

Step 20: Fingerprint cable information

Step 20 - Image 1

When prying up the daughterboard cover in the following step be very careful and avoid levering with too much force or to press your prying tool too deep underneath the cover. Otherwise, the fingerprint cable running underneath can be easily torn.

Step 21: Pry up the daughterboard cover

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of a spudger underneath the top edge of the daughterboard cover just above the black rubber guard securing the LED connector bracket.

Pry up with the spudger to release the daughterboard cover from its clips.

Step 22: Remove the daughterboard cover

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the daughterboard cover.

Step 23: Remove the black rubber guard

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the black rubber guard securing the LED connector bracket.

Step 24: Remove the connector bracket

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Use a pair of tweezers to remove the LED connector bracket.

Step 25: Disconnect the interconnect cable

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 26: Separate the interconnect cable adhesive

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

The interconnect cable is held in place by mild adhesive.

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the interconnect cable to separate it from the charging coil assembly and the loudspeaker.

Step 27: Fold over the interconnect cable

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

During the following step do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Use a pair of tweezers to fold the interconnect cable to the left like you'd open the cover of a book.

Step 28: Unfasten the motherboard cover screws

Step 28 - Image 1

Use a Torx T5 screwdriver to remove the four 4.2 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 29: Separate the wireless charging coil adhesive

Step 29 - Image 1
Step 29 - Image 2

The charging coil assembly is held in place by mild adhesive.

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom right edge of the charging coil assembly.

Slide the opening along the right edge of the charging coil assembly to separate the adhesive.

Step 30:

Step 30 - Image 1
Step 30 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom left edge of the charging coil assembly.

Slide the opening along the left edge of the charging coil assembly to separate the adhesive.

Step 31: Fold over the charging board assembly

Step 31 - Image 1
Step 31 - Image 2

When folding the charging coil assembly over avoid straining components and cables.

Carefully fold the charging coil to the top edge of the phone to access the motherboard cover screws.

Step 32: Unfasten the motherboard cover screws

Step 32 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 4.2 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 33: Separate the camera cover and flash assembly

Step 33 - Image 1
Step 33 - Image 2

Return the charging coil to its original position.

Don't try to remove the camera cover and flash assembly all the way. Its cable runs underneath the motherboard cover and is very fragile.

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the camera cover and flash assembly to separate it from the motherboard cover.

Step 34: Fold over the camera cover and flash assembly

Step 34 - Image 1
Step 34 - Image 2

Avoid straining the camera cover and flash assembly cable when folding it over.

Use a pair of tweezers to carefully fold the camera cover and flash assembly toward the battery.

Step 35: Unfasten the motherboard cover screws

Step 35 - Image 1

Use a Torx T5 screwdriver to remove the two 4.2 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Return the camera cover and flash assembly to its original position.

Step 36: Pry up the motherboard cover

Step 36 - Image 1
Step 36 - Image 2

Carefully fold the charging coil to the top edge of the phone to access the bottom edge of the motherboard cover.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom right edge of the motherboard cover.

Pry up with the spudger to release the motherboard cover from its clips.

Repeat the prying procedure for the bottom left edge of the motherboard cover.

Step 37: Remove the LED glyph assembly

Step 37 - Image 1
Step 37 - Image 2

Remove the LED glyph assembly.

Step 38: Disconnect the battery cable

Step 38 - Image 1
Step 38 - Image 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 39: Peel off the battery pull-tab

Step 39 - Image 1
Step 39 - Image 2

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause fire.

Use a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or a clean fingernail to peel the pull-tab labeled with an ***arrow*** off the battery.

Use the blunt nose tweezers to peel off remaining pieces of the pull-tab from the left battery edge.

Step 40: Loosen the battery adhesive

Step 40 - Image 1

The battery adhesive of the Nothing Phone (1) is very strong and loosening it beforehand eases the battery removal procedure and prevents damaging the cables running underneath.

Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the screen to loosen the battery adhesive. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

Step 41: Lift the battery

Step 41 - Image 1
Step 41 - Image 2

Grab the pull-tab and pull up on the adhesive strip to lift the battery out of its recess and swing it up to an upright position.

Step 42: Remove the battery

Step 42 - Image 1

Remove the battery.

Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.

During reassembly, temporarily reconnect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it is seated.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $27-$78)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($45-$130)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Nothing Phone (1) instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 58 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Nothing Phone (1) generates 61 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

Upload a photo of your Nothing Phone (1) and get an AI-powered cost estimate in seconds. See exactly what's damaged and how much it'll cost to fix.

Related Repair Guides