iPhone 16 Pro Microphone Repair

Allow your iPhone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your iPhone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

The next two steps show how to create an initial gap using a suction handle.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

You can also use an [product|IF145-198-4|iOpener|new_window=true] to heat the back glass. Follow [guide|11677|these instructions|new_window=true] to heat and apply the iOpener properly.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.

Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

If a gap doesn't appear, apply more heat to the edge and try again.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the following steps, don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the following areas:

A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. ***Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.***

Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

If the adhesive feels difficult to slice, reheat the edge for a minute and try again.

Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.

Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.

You'll hear and feel the metal clips release as you pass them.

Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the ***top edge*** and ***top-right corner*** of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.

Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, ***stopping above the volume up button***.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than 3 mm to avoid damaging the spring contacts.

Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.

Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, ***stopping below the volume down button***.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

At this point, the back glass should be free from the frame. If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter with your pick to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Swing open the back glass to the ***right*** of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.

Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Lift and remove the battery connector cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Lift the back glass connector cover straight up and remove it.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.

Remove the back glass.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

One 2.9 mm‑long screw

One 1.3 mm‑long screw

One 2.4 mm‑long screw

Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.

Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:

One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.

Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.

Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Use the point of a spudger to pivot the corner bracket up.

Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.

Be careful not to pry against the battery.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:

One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw

One 3 mm‑long standoff screw

One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.

Don't pry against the battery, or you may damage it.

You'll feel some resistance as the microphone releases from its adhesive gasket.

Remove the bottom microphone.

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.

Congratulations on completing disassembly! ***The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your iPhone.***

Depending on your iPhone model, some reassembly photos may have minor visual discrepancies. The procedure, however, will be correct for your iPhone.

Peel the white liner from the microphone adhesive gasket

Align the gasket to the frame's microphone cutout and use a spudger to press it in place.

Remove the remaining liner from the adhesive.

Insert the microphone at a downward angle into its recess before pressing it flat to the frame.

Install the three screws securing the bottom microphone:

One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw

One 3 mm‑long standoff screw

One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

Lay the Taptic Engine in its recess.

Use your finger to pivot the corner bracket down into place.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.

Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:

One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw

One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw

Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.

Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.

Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:

One 2.9 mm‑long screw

One 1.3 mm‑long screw

One 2.4 mm‑long screw

Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.

Work around the fragile grounding clips as you're cleaning the frame. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.

Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.

If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] and try again.

If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a [product|IF145-284|microfiber] or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.

Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Take your time doing this. A clean frame allows replacement adhesive to lay evenly, ensuring a better bond.

Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.

Use features such as the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how the adhesive will lay in the frame.

Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose ***a third ***of the adhesive.

The exposed adhesive is very sticky. Don't let it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.

If your adhesive has multiple liners, peel the liner that exposes the side that sticks to the frame.

Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.

Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.

If you've correctly aligned the adhesive, the edges will fall perfectly into place.

If your adhesive is slightly misaligned, gently pull the long edges into alignment with the frame.

If the adhesive begins to crease or wrinkle, remove it and start over with fresh adhesive.

If you don't have another set of adhesive strips handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive. Just keep in mind that your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you replace the adhesive.

Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.

Work around the fragile grounding clips. If you bend one out of place, gently bend it back with your fingers or tweezers.

Don't press too hard, or you'll stretch and deform the adhesive.

Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.

Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.

At this point, you may still have liner covering the perimeter, which prevents the adhesive from accidentally sticking to anything while you're reassembling your iPhone. ***Don't remove these small release liners just yet.***

Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.

Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.

***This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your iPhone. ***Power on your iPhone and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down and continue reassembly.

If your iPhone doesn't turn on, connect it to a power source and try again.

If you've replaced the logic board and the screen fails to turn on, you'll need to follow the [guide|178634|screen guide|new_window=true] to manually connect the display connector.

Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

Two 1.0 mm‑long screws

Align the battery connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:

Two 1.3 mm‑long screws

One 1.0 mm‑long screw

Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.

As you remove the liners, make sure nothing touches the exposed adhesive.

Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.

Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.

If you feel resistance, a perimeter clip may have bent out of place and is being crushed by the frame. Look at the point of resistance and gently straighten any bent clips.

Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or an [guide|25705|iOpener|new_window=true] to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.

The heat softens the adhesive and helps create a better bond.

Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.

Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.

Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.

Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.

Alternatively, you can use [guide|142291|vise clamps] around the perimeter of your device to set the new adhesive.

Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.

The coins may leave a slight impression on the bottom book cover, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.

The pressure will help activate the adhesive.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.