iPhone 15 Microphone Repair

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the power and either volume buttons and slide to power off your phone.

If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the bottom edge that's big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

Alternatively, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/pQGATIGUbViSB4gB.full|tape a coin to a pick|new_window=true] 3 mm from the tip.

Apple sells an ***Adhesive Cutter*** tool for cutting the display adhesive safely in their [link|https://selfservicerepair.com|Self Repair Store|new_window=true].

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.7 mm-long screws on either side of the charging port.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.

Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

As you slice the adhesive securing the back glass in the next steps, be careful of the following areas:

There's a delicate cable connecting the back glass to the phone, right next to the volume down button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.

There are multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the phone. Be extra careful not to insert your pick deeper than suggested in each step to avoid bending these contacts.

Don't insert your opening pick deeper than ***5 mm*** along the bottom edge.

Slide your pick back and forth along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave your pick inserted in the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***7 mm*** along the right edge.

Rotate your pick around the bottom right corner and slide it to the volume down button or until you feel a hard stop at a large clip securing the back glass.

Don't slice past the volume buttons to avoid damaging the wireless charging cable.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Along the left edge, don't insert your pick deeper than ***5 mm***.

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge.

Rotate the second pick around the bottom left corner.

Slide this pick up to the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***3 mm*** along the top edge.

Rotate your second opening pick around the top left corner and slide it to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

You might hear and feel clicks as the top two clips release.

Leave this pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat the top right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.

Don't insert your pick deeper than ***4 mm*** along the right edge.

Rotate the second opening pick around the top right corner and slide it to the volume up button to separate the adhesive.

Gently lift and swing open the back glass to the right of the phone.

If the back glass feels stuck, go back around the perimeter to check for missed sections of adhesive or stuck clips.

Rest the back glass against a raised surface so it doesn't strain the cable.

Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the two 1.3 mm-long screws securing the lower connector cover.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to slide the cover toward the top of the phone to unlatch it from the logic board.

Remove the cover.

Hold the back glass upright with one hand and rotate it just enough to reveal the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QJOPRvBZjTGUfar6.full|battery press connector|new_window=true] just below the volume buttons.

A plus and minus sign is printed on the head of this connector.

Use the tip of an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector from the logic board.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 0.9 mm-long screw securing the middle connector cover.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to push the cover toward the bottom of the phone and unclip its top edge.

Remove the cover.

Use an opening pick to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil and NFC connector.

Remove the back glass.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the grounding clip and loudspeaker.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to remove the four 1.6 mm‑long screws securing the loudspeaker.

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up the right edge of the loudspeaker until you can grab it with your fingers.

Remove the loudspeaker.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to remove the two 1.9 mm‑long screws securing the Taptic Engine press connector cover.

Remove the cover.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the Taptic Engine press connector.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to remove the 1.9 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the Taptic Engine.

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the microphone press connector.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the grounding clip and microphone.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to remove the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the bottom right of the microphone.

Use a [product|IF145-388|standoff driver|new_window=true] to remove the two 3.0 mm‑long standoff screws securing top of the microphone.

If you don't have a standoff driver, you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.

A strong adhesive gasket secured the microphone to the frame. Be careful not to bend any of the thin grounding tabs around the microphone during this step.

Insert the flat end of your spudger under the top edge of the microphone.

Pry up until the adhesive securing the microphone loosens.

Use your fingers or tweezers to peel up and remove the microphone.

Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show you how to reassemble your device.

When reconnecting press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip or spudger—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive from the bottom of the frame.

If there's adhesive residue on the frame, use high concentration isopropyl alcohol (greater than 90%) and a coffee filter or lint-free cloth to clean it.

If your microphone comes with adhesive installed, skip the next two steps.

While holding the microphone adhesive with one hand, use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the white liner from the adhesive.

Hold the microphone so the metal side is facing up.

Apply the adhesive to the microphone with the pull tab pointing up.

Remove the blue liner from the microphone adhesive.

Insert the microphone at a downward angle so the adhesive adheres firmly to the frame around the sound channel.

Press the microphone firmly into place.

Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the 1.3 mm screw securing the grounding clip and microphone.

Use a Phillips #000 driver to install the 1.3 mm screw securing the bottom right of the microphone.

Use a [product|IF145-388|standoff driver|new_window=true] to install the two 3 mm standoff screws securing top of the microphone.

If you don't have a standoff driver, you may use a thin flathead driver—but be careful not to strip the shallow notches in the screw heads.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the microphone press connector.

Place the loudspeaker into its recess in the frame.

Use your tri-point Y000 driver to install the 1.3 mm‑long screw securing the grounding clip and loudspeaker.

Use your Phillips #000 driver to install the four 1.6 mm‑long screws securing the loudspeaker.

Be careful not to damage any of the spring contacts as you clean the frame.

This is a good point to test your repair before sealing up your phone. Connect the battery and back glass, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Power it back down, disconnect the battery and back glass, and continue reassembly.

The adhesive remaining on your phone is difficult to remove and leaves residue. If you have trouble removing the adhesive, apply some heat using a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true].

Use the pointed end of a spudger to press and roll the adhesive until you can grip it with a pair of tweezers.

Use the tweezers to pull the adhesive off of the phone.

Any leftover residue will compromise your iPhone's seal. Be sure to clean the frame thoroughly.

Wrap a microfiber or lint-free cloth around the pointed end of a spudger and apply a few drops of high-concentration (greater than 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the cloth.

Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.

Wait a few minutes before proceeding to make sure any excess alcohol has evaporated.

Lay the adhesive next to the phone and use features like cutouts for spring contacts and the rear camera to make sure the adhesive is oriented correctly.

Your adhesive may look slightly different.

Once the adhesive is pressed into place, you can't reposition it—you'll have to remove it and start over with new adhesive.

Use the pull tab to begin peeling the back liner off the adhesive starting from the bottom, but don't remove the liner all the way.

Hold the liner out of the way and align the adhesive with the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Lay the bottom edge of the adhesive into its recess in the frame, making sure the iPhone's spring contacts are aligned with their cutouts in the liner.

When the adhesive is aligned, use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to press it down firmly along the bottom edge.

Continue peeling the back liner off of the adhesive while pressing the adhesive into place along the edges of the iPhone's frame.

If you correctly aligned the lower edge of the adhesive, the side and top edges will fall perfectly into place. If the adhesive is misaligned, remove it and start over with new adhesive.

If your adhesive is misaligned and you don't have another set handy, it's okay to temporarily put your iPhone back together and use it normally without any adhesive, but keep in mind that ***your iPhone's water resistance will be compromised until you install new adhesive***.

Make sure the liner is aligned properly by checking that all spring contacts and the rear camera are in their cutouts. If they aren't, remove the adhesive and start over with a new sheet.

Use the flat end of a spudger to press the adhesive into place around the perimeter of the frame.

Be careful not to touch the spring contacts sticking through the pink liner.

Remove the top adhesive liner.

Depending on your adhesive, your liner might be split into multiple parts or be a single piece.

Prop up the back glass along the right edge of the iPhone, using a box or similar sturdy object to support the screen.

Use the flat end of a spudger or your finger to connect the wireless charging coil press connector, then the battery press connector.

Place the middle connector cover over the wireless charging coil press connector so it slightly overhangs the slot on the logic board for the bottom clip.

Use your finger to press the cover down on the logic board.

While pressing it down, slide the cover upward so [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/5gbMytFVlxhJNMEA.full|both metal clips|new_window=true] slot into their spots in the logic board.

Use tweezers to hook the top of the lower connector cover into its slot on the logic board.

Lay the lower connector cover over the press connectors.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the 0.9 mm‑long screw securing the middle connector cover.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the two 1.3 mm‑long screws securing the lower connector cover.

Use tweezers or your fingers to separate the pull tabs at the bottom of the frame, near the charging port.

Remove the narrow liner covering the adhesive along the left and top edges of the frame.

Hold the back glass over the phone without letting it touch the adhesive, so you can access the remaining liners along the right edge of the phone.

Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the remaing liners along the right edge of the phone.

Lay the back glass straight down onto the frame and press until the clips engage.

Press around the perimeter of the back glass to engage all the clips.

To help the adhesive bond, apply heat to the edges of the back glass using an [guide|11677|iOpener|new_window=true], [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] until it's hot to the touch.

Firmly press around the perimeter of the back glass. If you have [guide|142291|screen vise clamps|new_window=true], use them to strengthen the bond of your new adhesive. If not, keep reading for more ways to secure the back glass.

To evenly compress your iPhone and strengthen the bond of the back glass to the frame, you need to account for the camera bump.

If you have the box your iPhone came in, take the lid and place it on a flat surface.

If you don't have your original box, ***skip this step for an alternate method***.

Place your iPhone screen-side-up in the lid of your box with the camera bump in its recess.

Find something close to the size of your iPhone, but taller than the sides of the box. Stack it on top of the iPhone, followed by a few heavy objects.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

If you don't have the original box for your iPhone, follow the next three steps for another method to evenly compress the back glass.

Place the iPhone screen-side-down on a soft, flat surface.

Apply tape to the back glass to protect its finish.

Place evenly spaced layers of coins or similarly thick objects on the tape along the edges of the back glass.

Stack them to a consistent height taller than the camera bump.

Stack multiple books or other heavy objects on your iPhone.

The coins may leave an impression on the bottom object, so don't use anything valuable.

Leave the objects in place for at least thirty minutes. The lighter the objects, the longer they should be left. Ideally, leave them stacked overnight.

Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.7 mm‑long screws on either side of the charging port.