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Google Pixel 6 Microphone Repair

Complete guide to Google Pixel 6 microphone repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$45 - $130
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:57 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$27 - $78
Labor$18 - $52
Total Estimated Cost$45 - $130

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Microphone Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 6. This repair involves replacing the damaged audio component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement audio part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Safety precautions

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Allow your battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.

Fully power off your phone and unplug any cables.

Step 2: Anti-Clamp instructions

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The next three steps demonstrate the [product|IF145-513|Anti-Clamp], a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. ***If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.***

For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, [guide|152309|check out this guide|new_window=true].

If your screen is cracked, cover it with a layer of clear packing tape to help the suction cup adhere.

Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your phone.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the phone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Squeeze the cups together to apply suction.

If you find that the surface of your phone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can [guide|159595|use tape|new_window=true] to create a grippier surface.

Step 3:

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Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 4:

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You can also use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true]—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the phone.

Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

Insert an opening pick under the screen frame when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

***Skip the next two steps.***

Step 5: Loosen the display adhesive

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Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least three minutes.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

Step 6: Insert an opening pick

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Once the screen is warm to the touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen.

If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction handle to adhere. Alternatively, [link|https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/4MmKE22Cy2MavVZU|very strong tape|new_window=true] may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction handle to the screen.

Lift the screen, including its safety frame, with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the phone assembly.

Insert an opening pick into the gap between the screen frame and the phone assembly.

Make sure to insert your opening pick in [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/IpoPnKTaRPyFubHJ.full|the right position|new_window=true] to avoid separating the screen from its safety frame instead of the phone assembly.

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner of the screen to slice its adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7: Slice the adhesive

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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge and slide it to the bottom left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8:

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The screen of the Google Pixel 6 is not only held in place by adhesive but also [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ydMEyVas6qA3KDaP.full|small plastic clips|new_window=true]. If your opening pick gets blocked during the screen removal procedure, it means you inserted your pick too deep underneath the screen. Only insert the tip of the opening pick (3-4 mm) when slicing the display adhesive.

Insert a third opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9:

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If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] or heat gun for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.

When you slice near the front facing camera, insert only the tip of the opening pick (2-3 mm) to avoid damaging or smearing the camera.

Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner of the screen.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the phone to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10:

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Insert a fifth opening pick and slide it along the right edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.

Do not try to remove the display all the way yet, the screen is still connected to the phone assembly.

Step 11: Open up the phone assembly

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Avoid straining the display cable during the following procedure.

Carefully open the right side of the screen to the left side of the phone assembly like you would open a book.

Step 12: Remove the display cable bracket

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully unhinge and remove the metal bracket sitting on top of the display cable connector.

Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.

Step 13: Disconnect the display cable

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Use a spudger to disconnect the display flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 14: Screen information

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***The back of the Pixel's screen is very fragile. Even a small scratch or dent can damage the screen.***

To prevent damaging your screen or replacement screen:

When handling your screen, grip it by its edges.

When placing the screen on your work area, make sure nothing is touching the bottom of the screen. Consider placing it on a soft, lint-free cloth.

Step 15: Remove the screen

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Remove the screen.

During reassembly:

If you replaced the screen, check the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/nODKyalnABkAMUO2.full|front-facing camera hole|new_window=true] on the screen and remove any remaining protective liners in it.

***Remember to reinstall the display cable bracket.***

This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. Temporarily connect your screen, power on your phone, and make sure it works as expected. Before continuing with reassembly, ***power off your phone and disconnect the screen***.

If you're installing a new screen, follow [guide|166753|this guide|new_window=true] to calibrate the fingerprint sensor.

Step 16: Loosen the graphite film adhesive

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Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] or a heat gun to the rear glass to loosen the adhesive underneath the graphite films on top of the battery. Apply the iOpener for at least two minutes.

Don't apply heat directly onto the battery. It is susceptible to heat damage and could cause a thermal event.

Step 17: Remove the graphite films

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Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

Use a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the top edge of the battery and the motherboard shield.

Remove the graphite film.

Step 18:

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If the graphite film is hard to peel off, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Reapply your iOpener] or heat gun to the rear glass for 1-2 minutes to reheat it.

Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the left edge of the battery and the motherboard shield.

Step 19:

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The graphite film at the bottom edge of the battery only needs to be removed when replacing the battery or the loudspeaker.

Use a pair of blunt nose tweezers or a clean fingernail to carefully peel the black graphite film off the bottom edge of the battery and the loudspeaker assembly.

You'll also remove a [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2ZcqVeRssJGbZRwM.full|piece of foam|new_window=true] that bridges the display and the speaker. Be sure to replace the foam after installing a new graphite film.

Remove the graphite film.

Step 20: Unfasten the motherboard cover screws

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Use a Torx T3 screwdriver to remove the screws securing the motherboard cover:

Eight 4.8 mm-long screws

One 2.4 mm-long screw

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 21:

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Carefully lift up the motherboard cover and remove it.

Step 22: Disconnect the battery cable

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Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 23: Apply high concentration isopropyl alcohol

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Adhesive is only present underneath the top and bottom areas of the battery and not underneath the center. The see-through plastic strip around the center of the battery is not especially useful during the removal procedure. Feel free to remove it for easier handling by opening its adhesive seal and pulling it out from underneath the battery.

Lift your phone assembly to a ~45° angle.

This helps to spread the isopropyl alcohol evenly in the following step. You can hold the phone in one hand and apply the alcohol with the other, or [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/Ic52X5RVYbyMJwBV.full|secure your suction handle to the rear glass|new_window=true] and use its handle as a stand for your phone.

Apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the gap between the motherboard and the top-left and bottom-left corner of the battery.

Step 24: Insert an opening pick

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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the top edge of the battery and the motherboard.

Use your opening pick to pry up the battery by tilting your pick downwards and widening the gap between the battery and the motherboard to create enough space to insert a plastic card.

Step 25: Insert a plastic card

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If you can't manage to remove the battery by only using high concentration isopropyl alcohol, you can try a combination with heat. In this case, [guide|25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the rear glass for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath the battery.

Insert a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Slide the plastic card underneath the top edge of the battery to slice its adhesive and pry it up.

Step 26:

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Slide the plastic card along the right edge to the bottom edge of the battery to separate it from the midframe and slice the adhesive.

Use your plastic card to pry up the battery.

Step 27: Remove the battery

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Peel the battery off the remaining adhesive.

Remove the battery.

Do not reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.

During reassembly, temporarily reconnect the battery to the motherboard to help align it correctly. Disconnect the battery after it is seated.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $27-$78)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($45-$130)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 6 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 57 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 6 generates 60 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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