Google Pixel 4a Microphone Repair
Complete guide to Google Pixel 4a microphone repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Microphone Repair is one of the most common repairs for Google Pixel 4a. This repair involves replacing the damaged audio component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement audio part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Eject the SIM card tray
Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM tray hole.
Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.
Step 2: Precautionary notes
You will need to pry the screen up to remove it from the phone. Read the following notes carefully before proceeding.
Take note of the two seams on the edge of the phone:
''Screen seam:'' This seam separates the screen from the rest of the phone. '''This is where you should pry'''.
''Frame seam:'' This is where the plastic frame meets the back cover. It is held in place by screws. '''Do not pry at this seam'''.
Before you begin, note the following areas on the screen:
''Screen flex cable:'' Do not insert the opening pick deeper than instructed or you risk damaging this cable.
Note the orange ribbon cable under the lower-right corner of the screen, which is susceptible to damage if your opening pick is pressed into it. ***Only insert your opening pick as little as is necessary to separate the screen adhesive.***
''Adhesive perimeter:'' Prying beyond this narrow perimeter without angling the pick will damage the OLED panel.
Step 3: Heat the right edge of the screen
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 4: Insert an opening pick
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Place a suction cup as close to the right edge of the screen as possible.
Lift the suction cup with a strong steady force.
Insert the tip of an opening pick into the ''screen seam'' '''no more than 1 mm.'''
Step 5: Guide the opening pick under the OLED panel
This step shows how to insert the pick without damaging the OLED panel. Do this before beginning to slice the adhesive.
With the pick '''1 mm''' into the gap, pivot the pick upwards to a steep angle.
At a steep angle, carefully push the pick into the gap about 1/4 inch (6 mm). The pick should slide in '''below''' the OLED panel.
'''Stop if you feel the point of the pick hitting a ridge.''' The pick may be pressing against the edge of the OLED panel. Angle the pick and try again.
Step 6: Cut the adhesive
Slide the pick along the right edge of the screen to cut the adhesive.
Do not insert the pick more than 1/4 inch (6 mm) or you may damage the screen's flex cable.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 7:
The screen adhesive is very weak and you should not need to re-apply heat. If the screen does feel hard to slice, apply heat to the difficult area for one minute and try again.
Insert another opening pick into the right edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
Slide the opening pick around the bottom of the phone to cut the adhesive.
There is a delicate cable under the bottom-right corner of the screen. If you feel your opening pick snag on anything, pull it out and try again. Make sure your pick is angled downward and only inserted as little as is necessary to separate the adhesive (no more than 2 mm deep).
Leave the pick inserted along the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8:
Insert another opening pick into the bottom edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
Use the pick to slice through the left edge of the phone.
If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the left edge for one minute and try again.
Leave the pick inserted along the left edge of the phone to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 9:
There's a mesh covering the earpiece speaker on the top edge of the screen. If you don’t have a replacement mesh, take care not to damage or lose this component.
Insert another opening pick into the left edge of the phone at an angle where a gap has already formed to prevent damage to the OLED panel.
Slide the pick around the top edge of the phone to cut the adhesive.
If the screen feels hard to slice, heat the top edge for one minute and try again.
Step 10:
Once you have cut around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the right edge of the screen, opening the phone like a book.
Do not remove the screen yet.
Use an opening pick to carefully cut through any remaining adhesive.
Step 11: Flip the screen over
Lift from the top edge and swing the screen over the bottom edge until you can rest it glass-side down.
Be careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cable.
Step 12: Disconnect the display
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel up the black tape covering the screen connector bracket.
If it is in good condition, you can re-use this tape during reassembly. Otherwise, replace it with a piece of electrical tape.
Step 13:
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm screws securing the screen connector bracket.
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Step 14:
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the screen connector bracket.
Make sure to keep this component to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 15:
Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen flex cable.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|new_window=true|press connectors] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 16: Remove the screen
Remove the screen.
To install a new screen:
Check if your replacement screen has speaker mesh and top edge adhesive pre-installed.
If it does, you won't need the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/URl4UmAoxJKgCBvy.full|top edge adhesive|new_window=true].
If it doesn't, remove the larger clear liner from the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/URl4UmAoxJKgCBvy.full|top edge adhesive|new_window=true] and apply it to the ***''screen''*** (not the frame). Make sure the larger cutout lines up with the speaker mesh.
Follow [guide|126585|this guide|new_window=true] to apply the custom-cut adhesive.
Use the third photo as a reference to position your adhesives.
During the boot-up process after reassembly, the screen will go through a calibration sequence. Don't touch the screen during this process, as it could result in improper touch calibration and create touch issues.
Step 17: Remove the midframe screws
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the eight 4.3 mm screws securing the back cover to the midframe.
Step 18: Spring contact information
This photo shows the midframe components behind the back cover. Note the spring contacts near the edge of the midframe. As you slice with the opening pick in the next step, ***be sure not to insert the pick more than 2 mm*** to avoid damaging the spring contacts.
Step 19: Separate the back cover from the midframe
In the next three steps, be careful not to insert the opening pick ***more than 2 mm*** into the seam.
Insert an opening pick into the seam between the midframe and the back cover. Angle the pick downwards at a steep angle into the seam.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
Step 20:
Slide the opening pick around the left edge of the phone to release the plastic clips securing the back cover to the midframe.
Step 21:
Slide the opening pick around the top and right edges of the phone to release the rest of the clips.
Step 22:
Carefully swing the back cover from the bottom of the phone over the top and around the back.
Lay the back cover on the work surface and lightly rest the midframe on the back cover, being careful not to put any stress on the attached ribbon cables.
Step 23: Remove the motherboard bracket
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the seven screws securing the motherboard bracket:
Three 2.9 mm-long black screws
Three 2 mm-long screws
One 4.1 mm-long screw
Step 24:
Use the tip of a spudger to unclip the motherboard bracket from the upper-right and lower-right corners of the motherboard.
Step 25:
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the motherboard bracket.
Step 26: Disconnect the battery
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery cable.
Step 27: Remove the back cover
Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the two flex cables connecting the fingerprint sensor and buttons to the motherboard.
Step 28:
Remove the back cover.
Step 29: Remove the battery adhesive
Flip the midframe over.
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to remove the two pieces of black tape covering the battery adhesive pull tabs.
If the pieces of tape remain intact, reuse them during reassembly. Otherwise, replace them with electrical tape.
Step 30:
Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the battery adhesive pull tabs so that you can grab them with your fingers.
Be careful not to puncture the bottom of the battery with your tweezers.
Step 31:
Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
'''Slowly''' pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the phone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the midframe. For best results, '''pull the strip at as low an angle as possible'''.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, apply a few drops of 90% isopropyl alcohol into the opening of the affected tab and tilt the phone towards the top edge so that the alcohol flows toward the remaining adhesive. Wait one minute for the adhesive to soften, then proceed to the next step.
Step 32:
Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
Remove the battery.
If the adhesive was successfully removed, the battery should fall out loosely.
If the battery cannot be easily removed, apply 90% isopropyl alcohol as directed in the previous step.
Once you have allowed one minute for the alcohol to soften the adhesive, use an opening pick to pry up the battery from one of the '''long''' edges.
Do not bend the battery.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $27-$78)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($45-$130)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Google Pixel 4a instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 52 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Google Pixel 4a generates 55 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!
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