Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus Speaker Repair
Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus speaker repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Speaker Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged audio component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
🔩 Replacement Parts
What You'll Need
- Replacement audio part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Heat the bottom edge
Completely power off your device before you begin.
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
The display adhesive of the Galaxy Tab S7+ is extremely strong, and it's likely you need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times before starting the display removal and during the removal procedure.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 2: Screen removal information
While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following:
There's a long circuit board attached to the screen that sits parallel to the bottom edge.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
This image shows an example of the display separating from the glass panel.
Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the display.
Step 3: Insert an opening pick
Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.
If your screen is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction handle. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.
Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap between the frame and the screen.
Don't insert the pick more than 2 mm to avoid damaging the circuit board.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 4: Separate the bottom adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the bottom edge of the device towards the bottom-right corner.
Step 5: Heat the right edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the right edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 6: Separate the bottom-right corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7: Separate the right adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Don't insert the pick more than 3 mm to avoid damaging the components along the right edge.
Slide the new pick along the right edge of the device towards the top-right corner.
Step 8: Heat the top edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 9: Separate the top-right corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the top-right corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 10: Separate the top adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the top edge of the device towards the top-left corner.
Step 11: Heat the left edge
Apply a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the device to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Step 12: Separate the top-left corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the top-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 13: Separate the left adhesive
Insert a new opening pick into the gap you created.
Slide the new pick along the left edge of the device towards the bottom-left corner.
Step 14: Separate the bottom-left corner adhesive
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom-left corner of the device.
Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
At this point, the perimeter of the screen should be separated from the frame. If there's still resistance around the edges of the screen, use an opening pick to cut the adhesive again.
Step 15: Remove the screen
Don't try to remove the screen all the way yet; it's still connected to the frame by a flex cable.
With the top of the device facing you, pull the screen up and away from you like you're opening a book.
Rest the screen upside down and parallel to the frame before continuing.
Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the flex cable.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your tablet and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your tablet back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Use some high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to wipe away any adhesive residue.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|124003|follow this guide|new_window=true]. If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]
Step 16: Disconnect the display cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector secured to the screen.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 17:
Use tweezers, or you fingers, to hold the display cable in place.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor's press connector attached to the display cable.
Take note of the display cable's position; you will need to bend it in the same way when connecting a new screen.
Step 18: Remove the screen
Remove the screen from the frame.
Step 19: Unfasten the frame bracket
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the fifty 3 mm-long screws securing the frame bracket to the frame.
The third photo has the same screws marked by quadrant. Use this photo during reassembly to help account for all the screws:
Bottom left = 9 screws
Bottom right = 14 screws
Top right = 12 screws
Top left = 15 screws
Step 20: Remove the frame bracket
Lift the frame bracket away from the frame, making sure to thread the display cable through its socket.
Step 21: Disconnect the battery
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 22: Disconnect the display cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Repeat for the fingerprint sensor cable attached to display cable.
Step 23: Remove the display cable
Use your fingers to remove the display cable.
Step 24: Disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the daughterboard interconnect cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 25: Disconnect the keyboard dock port cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the keyboard dock port cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 26: Remove the front camera
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the front camera.
Step 27: Disconnect the microSD card reader
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the microSD card reader's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 28: Disconnect the rear camera
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the rear camera's two press connectors secured to the motherboard.
Step 29: Disconnect the power button cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the power button cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 30: Disconnect the bottom-right coaxial cable
Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the bottom-right loudspeaker's yellow coaxial cable from the motherboard.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.
Step 31: Reposition the bottom-right coaxial cable
Pull the coaxial cable away from the frame, making sure the cable is completely unthreaded from the motherboard.
Step 32: Disconnect the interconnect cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the interconnect cable's press connector secured to the motherboard.
Step 33: Disconnect the top-right coaxial cable
Use the point of a spudger to carefully pry up and disconnect the top-right loudspeaker's blue coaxial cable from the motherboard.
Step 34: Unfasten the motherboard
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the three 2 mm screws securing the motherboard to the frame.
Step 35: Remove the motherboard
Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to release the motherboard from its clips.
Remove the motherboard.
During reassembly, refasten the motherboard screws first to properly align it into place, then reconnect the cables.
Step 36: Speaker assembly information
If you're replacing a specific speaker, use the links below to skip to the corresponding steps:
Step 37: Reposition the bottom-left coaxial cable
Pull the bottom-left coaxial cable away from the frame, making sure the cable is completely unthreaded from the frame.
Step 38: Remove the antenna board's interconnect cable
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna board's interconnect cable secured to the antenna board.
Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the cable.
Step 39: Unfasten the antenna board
Use a Phillips 00 screwdriver to remove the 2 mm screw securing the antenna board to the frame.
Step 40: Remove the antenna board
Insert a spudger into a gap between the antenna board and the frame.
Pry up with the spudger to separate the antenna board from the frame.
Remove the antenna board.
Step 41: Heat the left edge
The bottom-left loudspeaker's connector is secured to the frame by adhesive; use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 42: Separate the connector's adhesive
Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left loudspeaker's copper connector pads and the frame.
Pry up while slicing the adhesive to separate the pad from the frame.
Step 43:
Slice with the opening pick along the bottom of the connector's cable to completely separate it from the frame.
Step 44: Remove the loudspeaker
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Step 45: Heat the left edge
The top-left loudspeaker's connector is secured to the frame by adhesive; use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 46: Separate the loudspeaker cable's adhesive
Insert an opening pick between the loudspeaker cable and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the cable from the frame.
Step 47: Remove the loudspeaker
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Step 48: Heat the right edge
The top-right loudspeaker's connector is secured to the frame by adhesive; use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 49: Separate loudspeaker cable's adhesive
Insert an opening pick between the loudspeaker's copper connector pads and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the pads from the frame.
Step 50: Remove the loudspeaker
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
Step 51: Heat the right edge
The bottom-right loudspeaker's connector is secured to the frame by adhesive; use heat to avoid tearing the connector.
Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the device for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
Step 52: Separate the loudspeaker cable's adhesive
Insert an opening pick between the loudspeaker cable and the frame.
Slice the adhesive while prying up with the pick to separate the cable from the frame.
Step 53: Remove the loudspeaker
Use a spudger to pry up and separate the loudspeaker from the frame.
Remove the loudspeaker.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$90)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($50-$150)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 127 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy Tab S7 Plus generates 130 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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