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Samsung Galaxy S24 Vibration Motor Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S24 vibration motor repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$40 - $110
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:63 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$24 - $66
Labor$16 - $44
Total Estimated Cost$40 - $110

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Vibration Motor Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S24. This repair involves replacing the damaged haptic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement haptic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly

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Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.

Step 2: Heat the right edge

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You may use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate instead, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [guide|25705|iOpener instructions|new_window=true] to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Separate the right adhesive

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Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

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Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Separate the bottom adhesive

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Insert a second opening pick next to the first one, near the bottom of the right edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 7:

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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8: Heat the left edge

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Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9: Separate the left adhesive

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Insert a third opening pick next to the second one, near the left side of the bottom edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 10:

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Slide your opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FwyD52BTVgTAFUxd.full|antenna cable|new_window=true].

Leave the pick inserted near the power button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

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Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12: Separate the top adhesive

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Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top of the right edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 13:

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Slide the pick along the top edge to separate the adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the sensor or camera near the top edge.

Step 14: Separate the remaining adhesive

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Slide the pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to separate the remaining adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the cameras.

Step 15: Remove the back cover

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Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the edges to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true] from the motherboard.

There's an arrow printed on the board near each press connector that indicates the recommended prying location. Only pry in this location for each press connector to avoid dislodging surface-mounted components.

To reconnect press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

Step 17: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker screws

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the ten 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:

Four screws securing the wireless charging coil

Six screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 18: Separate the coil adhesive

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Use a spudger to gently pry up a corner of the tab of the wireless charging coil that's adhered to the right edge of the frame.

Step 19:

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Use an opening pick to separate the tab from the frame.

Step 20: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker

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Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the right edge of the loudspeaker and the frame.

There's an arrow engraved in the loudspeaker to indicate the recommended prying location.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 21:

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Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.

During reassembly, press around the edges of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame before reinserting the screws.

Step 22: Disconnect the interconnect cables

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the motherboard.

Step 23:

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard.

Step 24: Remove the interconnect cables

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Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the phone.

Step 25: Remove the display cable

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the motherboard.

Step 26:

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the daughterboard.

Step 27: Disconnect the fingerprint reader

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint reader cable press connector from the motherboard.

Step 28: Put the back cover on

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Put the back cover on the frame to protect the battery and your phone's internals from damage.

Don't apply new adhesive at this step, as you'll need to remove the back cover again to finish reassembly. The old adhesive will be enough to keep the back cover in place while you replace the screen.

Flip your phone over so the screen is facing up.

Step 29:

Step 29 - Image 1

If your screen is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.

Make sure there's a smooth area near the top edge big enough for a suction cup to stick to.

Step 30: Heat the screen

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Be careful not to heat the phone more than recommended below—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the top edge of the screen until it's almost too hot to touch.

Step 31: Safety information

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The gap between the front glass and frame is very small. You'll need a thin, rigid tool such as an [product|IF145-336|iFlex|new_window=true] to create an initial gap.

Take the following safety precautions while removing the front glass during the next steps:

Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges with bare hands—they're very sharp.

The front glass may shatter and spread shards of glass around your workspace. Consider wearing [product|IF145-481|gloves|new_window=true] and [product|IF145-125|safety glasses|new_window=true] to protect yourself.

Step 32: Create a gap

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The iFlex or similar tool only needs to be inserted just enough to create a small gap between the glass and the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/s1b1xbpHchYAXPBM.full|display panel|new_window=true]. If inserted too far, it may damage the front-facing camera.

Apply a suction handle to the center of the screen's top edge, as close to the edge as possible.

Insert the iFlex or similar tool at a downward angle in the notch between the top edge of the front glass and frame.

Use strong, steady force to pry up the glass with the suction handle while gently pushing the iFlex between the glass and the display panel.

The front glass will peel away from the display panel, causing it to appear discolored. This is normal. You will remove the display panel in a later step.

Step 33: Insert an opening pick

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Slide the iFlex or similar tool to one of the top corners of the front glass until the gap is large enough to insert an opening pick.

Insert an opening pick into the gap and remove the iFlex.

Though you can use an iFlex for the next step, a plastic tool like an opening pick reduces the risk of shattering the glass.

Step 34: Remove the front glass

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Slide the opening pick around the edges of the front glass to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

If the adhesive is difficult to separate, use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the sides of the phone until they're warm to the touch.

Step 35:

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Lift the front glass off the frame and remove it.

Step 36: Remove the display panel

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Insert an opening pick under the display panel.

If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true] or [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true] to heat the display panel and soften its adhesive.

The display panel has two layers. Make sure the pick is [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/gvwVBqfbHrSrfLQw.full|completely underneath the display panel|new_window=true] and not between two layers.

Step 37:

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The [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/CSmDLQFkdQmITFTd.full|fingerprint reader|new_window=true] attaches to the display near the top left corner. Be careful not to pull on the cable with the opening pick to avoid damaging the motherboard.

There are [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/HBUOnDa1RucIkpX5.full|components|new_window=true] attached to the back of the bottom edge of the display panel, and [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/dcYBuJ6NFEtufPBj.full|gaskets|new_window=true] under these components. Slide the opening pick under these components, but don't peel up the gaskets.

Slide the opening pick around the edges of the display panel to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Step 38:

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Hold the phone clear of the table and remove the back cover so the fingerprint reader cable is free to move.

Grip the top left corner of the display panel and slowly peel it away from the frame to thread the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/CSmDLQFkdQmITFTd.full|fingerprint reader cable out of its hole in the frame|new_window=true].

Step 39:

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Remove the display panel.

You can use an opening pick to separate the adhesive underneath the display panel to make it easier to remove, being careful not to damage the front camera.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$66)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($40-$110)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S24 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 63 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S24 generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 2 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!

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