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Samsung Galaxy S24 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S24 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:45 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S24. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly

Step 1 - Image 1
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Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.

Step 2: Heat the right edge

Step 2 - Image 1

You may use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate instead, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

Step 3 - Image 1
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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [guide|25705|iOpener instructions|new_window=true] to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Separate the right adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
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Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

Step 5 - Image 1

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Separate the bottom adhesive

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Insert a second opening pick next to the first one, near the bottom of the right edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8: Heat the left edge

Step 8 - Image 1

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9: Separate the left adhesive

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Insert a third opening pick next to the second one, near the left side of the bottom edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 10:

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Slide your opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FwyD52BTVgTAFUxd.full|antenna cable|new_window=true].

Leave the pick inserted near the power button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

Step 11 - Image 1

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12: Separate the top adhesive

Step 12 - Image 1
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Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top of the right edge.

Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 13:

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Slide the pick along the top edge to separate the adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the sensor or camera near the top edge.

Step 14: Separate the remaining adhesive

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Slide the pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to separate the remaining adhesive.

Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the cameras.

Step 15: Remove the back cover

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Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the edges to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true] from the motherboard.

There's an arrow printed on the board near each press connector that indicates the recommended prying location. Only pry in this location for each press connector to avoid dislodging surface-mounted components.

To reconnect press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.

Step 17: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker screws

Step 17 - Image 1
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the ten 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:

Four screws securing the wireless charging coil

Six screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 18: Separate the coil adhesive

Step 18 - Image 1
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Use a spudger to gently pry up a corner of the tab of the wireless charging coil that's adhered to the right edge of the frame.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1
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Use an opening pick to separate the tab from the frame.

Step 20: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker

Step 20 - Image 1
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Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the right edge of the loudspeaker and the frame.

There's an arrow engraved in the loudspeaker to indicate the recommended prying location.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1
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Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.

During reassembly, press around the edges of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame before reinserting the screws.

Step 22: Disconnect the battery

Step 22 - Image 1
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 23: Disconnect the interconnect cables

Step 23 - Image 1
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the motherboard.

Step 24:

Step 24 - Image 1
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard.

Step 25: Remove the interconnect cables

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Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the phone.

Step 26: Remove the SIM card tray

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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.

Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.

Remove the SIM card tray.

If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/32804/why-you-cant-really-damage-your-microphone-port-with-a-sim-eject-tool|You most likely didn't damage the microphone.|new_window=true]

Step 27: Remove the daughterboard screws

Step 27 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the daughterboard.

Step 28: Remove the daughterboard

Step 28 - Image 1
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up the top left corner of the daughterboard.

Don't pry against the battery. Angle your spudger to pry against the frame.

Remove the daughterboard.

During reassembly, reinsert the USB-C port into its recess at an angle before pressing the daughterboard flat onto the frame.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S24 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 45 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S24 generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 69% reduction in carbon emissions!

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