Samsung Galaxy S24 Charging Port Repair
Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S24 charging port repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Charging Port Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S24. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly
Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Unplug any cables from your phone.
Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.
Step 2: Heat the right edge
You may use a [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate instead, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 3: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [guide|25705|iOpener instructions|new_window=true] to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Step 4: Separate the right adhesive
Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 5: Heat the bottom edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.
Step 6: Separate the bottom adhesive
Insert a second opening pick next to the first one, near the bottom of the right edge.
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.
Step 7:
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted near the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8: Heat the left edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.
Step 9: Separate the left adhesive
Insert a third opening pick next to the second one, near the left side of the bottom edge.
Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.
Step 10:
Slide your opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.
Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/FwyD52BTVgTAFUxd.full|antenna cable|new_window=true].
Leave the pick inserted near the power button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 11: Heat the top edge
Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.
Step 12: Separate the top adhesive
Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top of the right edge.
Rotate the opening pick around the top right corner to separate the adhesive.
Step 13:
Slide the pick along the top edge to separate the adhesive.
Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the sensor or camera near the top edge.
Step 14: Separate the remaining adhesive
Slide the pick around the top left corner and down the left edge to separate the remaining adhesive.
Do not insert the pick more than 4 mm to avoid damaging the cameras.
Step 15: Remove the back cover
Grab and remove the back cover.
If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the edges to separate any adhesive that may have resealed.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].
If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]
Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil [guide|25629|press connector|stepid=70308|new_window=true] from the motherboard.
There's an arrow printed on the board near each press connector that indicates the recommended prying location. Only pry in this location for each press connector to avoid dislodging surface-mounted components.
To reconnect press connectors, align the connector carefully over its socket and press down with your fingertip—first on one side, then the other—until it clicks into place. Don't try to force the connector into place. If you're having trouble, reposition it and try again.
Step 17: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker screws
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the ten 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:
Four screws securing the wireless charging coil
Six screws securing the loudspeaker
Step 18: Separate the coil adhesive
Use a spudger to gently pry up a corner of the tab of the wireless charging coil that's adhered to the right edge of the frame.
Step 19:
Use an opening pick to separate the tab from the frame.
Step 20: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker
Insert the point of a spudger into the gap between the right edge of the loudspeaker and the frame.
There's an arrow engraved in the loudspeaker to indicate the recommended prying location.
Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.
Step 21:
Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.
During reassembly, press around the edges of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame before reinserting the screws.
Step 22: Disconnect the battery
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
Step 23: Disconnect the interconnect cables
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the motherboard.
Step 24:
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard.
Step 25: Remove the interconnect cables
Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the phone.
Step 26: Remove the display cable
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the motherboard.
Step 27:
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the daughterboard.
Grab and remove the display cable.
Step 28: Move the lower antenna cable
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower antenna cable press connector from the motherboard.
Move the lower antenna cable so it is out of the way of the battery.
Step 29: Peel back the pull tab
Be very careful not to bend, crease, or puncture the battery during the next few steps. A damaged battery can leak dangerous chemicals and catch fire.
Peel the battery pull tab away from the battery, towards the left edge of the phone.
If you're having trouble getting the pull tab up, use and opening pick or other thin plastic tool at a low angle to peel up a corner. Never use a metal tool on battery, and never press into the battery.
Step 30:
Separate the small, clear tabs above and below the blue part of the pull tab from the rest of the pull tab.
Bend these small tabs away from the battery to make sure they stay clear of the battery.
If these tabs aren't separated, you won't be able to lift the battery in the next step. You can tape these tabs to the side of the phone or the screen to keep them out of the way.
Your device may have two tabs on the bottom edge of the battery. These are designed to tear away during the next step, but if you have trouble removing the battery, you can carefully peel these tabs up as well.
Step 31: Remove the battery
This battery is held by a piece of double-sided adhesive film that is doubled under the battery. When you lift the battery by the pull tab, the left edge will come up, but the right edge will not. You'll remove the remaining film and the battery in the next step.
With one hand firmly holding down the frame of the phone, use firm, steady force to lift the blue pull tab straight up until the battery separates from the bottom layer of adhesive film.
If you're having trouble, apply ***1-2 drops*** of high‑concentration (90% or more) isopropyl alcohol to the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/hLsCusBLdvfEtefM.full|left edge of the battery|new_window=true]. Raise the left edge of the phone to let the alcohol flow under the battery and wait one minute for it to soften the adhesive.
Lay the battery over the right edge of your phone.
Be careful not to bend the battery on the right edge of the phone frame. You may need to peel up some of the bottom layer of adhesive film by pulling the battery up before laying it over the edge of the phone.
Step 32:
Peel up the remaining film from the frame.
Remove the battery.
If you used isopropyl alcohol, wait ten minutes before installing the new battery to allow the alcohol to completely evaporate.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$72)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($40-$120)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S24 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 62 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S24 generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!
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