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Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:50 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Safety precautions

Step 1 - Image 1

***Let your phone's battery drain below 25% before starting this repair.*** A charged lithium‑ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables from your phone and completely power it down.

Step 2: Remove the SIM card tray

Step 2 - Image 1
Step 2 - Image 2

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.

Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.

Remove the SIM card tray.

If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/32804/why-you-cant-really-damage-your-microphone-port-with-a-sim-eject-tool|new_window=true|You most likely didn't damage the microphone.]

Step 3: Heat the right edge

Step 3 - Image 1

A [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer], [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 4: Adhesive information

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:

There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.

The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 5: Insert an opening pick

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Step 5 - Image 2

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 6: Separate the right adhesive

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7: Heat the bottom edge

Step 7 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 8: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 9: Separate the bottom adhesive

Step 9 - Image 1
Step 9 - Image 2

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10: Heat the left edge

Step 10 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 11: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 11 - Image 1
Step 11 - Image 2

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 12: Separate the left adhesive

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Slide your opening pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.

Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 13: Heat the top edge

Step 13 - Image 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 14: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.

Be careful while working around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 15: Separate the top adhesive

Step 15 - Image 1
Step 15 - Image 2

Slide the pick to the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.

Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 16: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Step 17: Separate the remaining adhesive

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to separate through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Step 18: Remove the back cover

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 19: Disconnect the NFC antenna and charging coil

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 20: Separate the coil adhesive

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.

Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick between the top edge of the wireless charging coil and the frame.

Slide the pick toward the right edge to separate the remaining adhesive.

Step 22: Unfasten the NFC antenna and charging coil

Step 22 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Step 23: Unfasten the loudspeaker

Step 23 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 24: Unclip the loudspeaker

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 25: Remove the charging coil and loudspeaker assembly

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 26: Disconnect the battery

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 27: Disconnect the interconnect cables

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the primary interconnect cable.

Step 28:

Step 28 - Image 1
Step 28 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable press connector from the charging board.

Repeat for the primary interconnect cable.

Step 29: Remove the interconnect cables

Step 29 - Image 1
Step 29 - Image 2

Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the frame.

Step 30: Unfasten the charging board

Step 30 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the charging board.

Step 31: Remove the charging board

Step 31 - Image 1
Step 31 - Image 2

Insert the point of your spudger under the top right of the charging board.

Pry the charging board up from its recess until you can grab it with your fingers.

Pull the charging board toward the top of the device to remove it from its recess.

During reassembly, reinsert the charging board at a downward angle to guide the USB-C port into its recess.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 50 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S23 Ultra generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 71% reduction in carbon emissions!

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