Skip to main content
🔧
HowMuchToFixAI for a Greener Future
Logic
difficult

Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:47 kg

🌍 Share Your Environmental Impact

Inspire others to repair instead of replace! Share how much CO₂ you're saving.

Share your impact:

💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly

Step 1 - Image 1
Step 1 - Image 2

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, [[What to do with a swollen battery|take appropriate precautions|new_window=true]].

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.

Step 2: Heat the right edge

Step 2 - Image 1

A [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [guide|25705|iOpener instructions|new_window=true] to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Separate the right adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

Step 5 - Image 1

Apply a [guide|25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Insert a second pick at the bottom right corner.

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 7: Separate the bottom adhesive

Step 7 - Image 1
Step 7 - Image 2

Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8: Heat the left edge

Step 8 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 9 - Image 1
Step 9 - Image 2

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 10: Separate the left adhesive

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Slide your pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

Step 11 - Image 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner.

Rotate it around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 13: Separate the top adhesive

Step 13 - Image 1
Step 13 - Image 2

Slide your opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14: Separate the flash adhesive

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

There's a remaining [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/IBcyVfmDsdHbdID1.full|patch of adhesive|new_window=true] directly under the flash.

Line up the tip of an opening pick with the flash cutout.

Slide the opening pick under the top of the back cover until you feel it start to snag on the adhesive.

You should see the opening pick through the flash cutout.

Keep sliding the pick toward the bottom of the phone until you feel the adhesive completely separate from the back cover.

Avoid touching the rear cameras with your pick. Pushing against the lenses risks damaging them.

Step 15: Remove the back cover

Step 15 - Image 1
Step 15 - Image 2

Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat and isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) if you're having trouble removing the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 17: Disconnect the NFC antenna

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector.

Step 18: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker screws

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the thirteen 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:

Six screws securing the wireless charging coil

Seven screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 19: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

Insert the point of your spudger in the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 20:

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

Use your fingers to lift the loudspeaker away from the frame to fully separate it.

Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 21: Disconnect the battery

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 22: Disconnect the interconnect cables

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary and secondary interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard.

Step 23:

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Repeat the previous step for the primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors on the motherboard.

Step 24: Remove the interconnect cables

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Remove the interconnect cables.

Step 25: Remove the daughterboard screws

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the daughterboard.

Step 26: Remove the daughterboard

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the top right corner of the daughterboard and unclip it from the frame.

Don't pry against the battery! Angle your spudger so you pry against the frame.

Remove the daughterboard.

During reassembly, reinsert the USB-C port into its recess at an angle before pressing the daughterboard flat onto the frame.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 47 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus generates 67 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 70% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

Upload a photo of your Samsung Galaxy S23 Plus and get an AI-powered cost estimate in seconds. See exactly what's damaged and how much it'll cost to fix.

Related Repair Guides