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Samsung Galaxy S23 Camera Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S23 camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$60 - $250
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:61 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$36 - $150
Labor$24 - $100
Total Estimated Cost$60 - $250

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S23. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your phone for disassembly

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Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, [[What to do with a swollen battery|take appropriate precautions|new_window=true]].

Unplug any cables from your phone.

Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.

Step 2: Heat the right edge

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A [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [guide|25705|iOpener instructions|new_window=true] to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Separate the right adhesive

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Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

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Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.

Rotate it around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 7: Separate the bottom adhesive

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Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8: Heat the left edge

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Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9: Separate the corner adhesive

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Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 10: Separate the left adhesive

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Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Slide your pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12: Separate the corner adhesive

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Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner.

Rotate it around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 13: Separate the top adhesive

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Slide your opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14: Separate the flash adhesive

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There's a remaining [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/IBcyVfmDsdHbdID1.full|patch of adhesive|new_window=true] directly under the flash.

Line up the tip of an opening pick with the flash cutout.

Slide the opening pick under the top of the back cover until you feel it start to snag on the adhesive.

You should see the opening pick through the flash cutout.

Keep sliding the pick toward the bottom of the phone until you feel the adhesive completely separate from the back cover.

Avoid touching the rear cameras with your pick. Pushing against the lenses risks damaging them.

Step 15: Remove the back cover

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Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat and isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) if you're having trouble removing the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 17: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker screws

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the thirteen 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:

Six screws securing the wireless charging coil

Seven screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 18: Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker

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Insert the point of your spudger in the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 19:

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Use your fingers to lift the loudspeaker away from the frame to fully separate it.

Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 20: Disconnect the battery

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Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 21: Disconnect the earpiece speaker

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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the earpiece speaker press connector.

Step 22: Remove the earpiece speaker screws

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the earpiece speaker.

Step 23: Remove the earpiece speaker

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Insert the flat end of your spudger between the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and the sliver shield on the motherboard.

Don't insert your spudger anywhere else or you risk dislodging fragile surface‑mounted components.

Twist the spudger to unclip the earpiece speaker from the frame and remove it.

During reassembly, insert the top end of the earpiece speaker into the frame first before pressing down and clipping it back in.

Step 24: Disconnect the interconnect cables

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary and secondary interconnect cable press connectors from the daughterboard.

Step 25:

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Repeat the previous step for the primary and secondary interconnect cable connectors on the motherboard.

Step 26: Remove the interconnect cables

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Remove both interconnect cables.

Step 27: Disconnect the antenna

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Insert the tip of your spudger between the left edge of the antenna press connector and the sliver shield on the motherboard.

Fragile surface mounted-components surround this connector. Prying on other edges of this connector risks dislodging them from the board.

Pry up and disconnect the antenna press connector.

Step 28: Disconnect the display and antenna cables

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and 5G mmWave cable press connectors from the motherboard.

Step 29: Disconnect the front camera

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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the front camera press connector.

Step 30: Remove the motherboard screws

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the motherboard.

Step 31: Remove the motherboard

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Insert the flat end of your spudger between the top edge of the motherboard and the frame, near the earpiece speaker cutout.

Twist the spudger to lift the motherboard up and out of the frame until you can grip it with your fingers.

Remove the motherboard.

During reassembly, make sure all of the cables are out of the way before placing the motherboard back into the frame.

Step 32: Remove the ultrawide camera

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The three rear cameras are slotted into each other and should be removed [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/3lYhpYxYaxgUtWwF.full|from top to bottom|new_window=true].

Flip over the motherboard to expose the rear camera press connectors.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the ultrawide camera press connector.

Step 33:

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The ultrawide camera is hooked into the motherboard and the main camera by metal pegs.

While holding the motherboard, lift the ultrawide camera out of its peg holes and remove it.

Step 34: Remove the main camera

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the main camera press connector.

Lift the main camera off the motherboard and remove it.

Step 35: Remove the telephoto camera

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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the telephoto camera press connector.

Lift the telephoto camera off the motherboard and remove it.

During reassembly, reinstall the rear cameras in the opposite order so they slot into each other properly (Telephoto → Main → Ultrawide)

Step 36: Only the rear cameras remain

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All three rear cameras remain.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S23 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 61 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S23 generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 94% reduction in carbon emissions!

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