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Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Vibration Motor Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra vibration motor repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$40 - $110
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:68 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$24 - $66
Labor$16 - $44
Total Estimated Cost$40 - $110

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Vibration Motor Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra. This repair involves replacing the damaged haptic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement haptic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Heat the right edge

Step 1 - Image 1

Let your phone's battery drain to below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

A [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 2: Adhesive information

Step 2 - Image 1
Step 2 - Image 2

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:

There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.

The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Slice the right adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the bottom edge

Step 5 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 7: Slice the bottom adhesive

Step 7 - Image 1
Step 7 - Image 2

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8: Heat the left edge

Step 8 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 9 - Image 1
Step 9 - Image 2

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 10: Slice the left adhesive

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Slide your opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.

Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11: Heat the top edge

Step 11 - Image 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Step 13: Slice the top adhesive

Step 13 - Image 1
Step 13 - Image 2

Slide the pick to the top left corner to slice the adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.

Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14: Separate the corner adhesive

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Step 15: Slice the remaining adhesive

Step 15 - Image 1
Step 15 - Image 2

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to slice through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Step 16: Remove the back cover

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 17: Slice the adhesive

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.

Be careful not to strain or tear the display interconnect cable under the right side of the charging coil.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.

Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Step 18: Disconnect the NFC antenna and charging coil

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 19: Unfasten the NFC antenna and charging coil

Step 19 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Step 20: Unfasten the loudspeaker

Step 20 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 21: Unclip the loudspeaker

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 22: Remove the charging coil and loudspeaker assembly

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.

The wireless charging coil holds these parts together.

Step 23: Disconnect the battery

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 24: Disconnect the laser AF module

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the laser autofocus module press connector.

Step 25: Unfasten the motherboard cover

Step 25 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 26: Remove the motherboard cover and laser AF module

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the bottom right corner of the motherboard cover and the frame.

Pry up on the cover to unclip it from the frame.

Remove the motherboard cover and laser AF module.

During reassembly, press down on the cover to secure its clips to the frame.

Step 27: Disconnect the front-facing camera

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the front-facing camera press connector.

Step 28: Disconnect the fingerprint reader

Step 28 - Image 1
Step 28 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint reader press connector.

Step 29: Disconnect the screen

Step 29 - Image 1
Step 29 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.

Step 30: Disconnect the stylus

Step 30 - Image 1
Step 30 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the stylus' press connector.

Step 31: Unfasten the motherboard

Step 31 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm-long screw securing the motherboard.

Step 32: Pry the motherboard up

Step 32 - Image 1
Step 32 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the top left of the motherboard and the frame.

Pry the motherboard up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Step 33: Remove the motherboard

Step 33 - Image 1
Step 33 - Image 2

Grab the motherboard by the left edge and remove it from the frame.

Be careful not to catch on any loose cables.

During reassembly, be sure the cables are above the motherboard when reinserting it.

Step 34: Unfasten the earpiece speaker and vibration motor

Step 34 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.2 mm-long screws securing the earpiece speaker and vibration motor.

Step 35: Remove the earpiece speaker and vibration motor

Step 35 - Image 1
Step 35 - Image 2

Insert the flat end of your spudger underneath the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker and vibration motor.

Pry the earpiece speaker and vibration motor up from its recess and remove it.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$66)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($40-$110)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 68 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 2 kg of CO₂. That's a 97% reduction in carbon emissions!

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