Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra Charging Port Repair

Let your phone's battery drain to below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

A [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:

There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.

The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted near the bottom of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom right corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the bottom left corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Slide your opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive, stopping when you reach the power button.

Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.

Leave the pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top right corner.

Be careful while slicing around the corners, as the glass is very fragile here. Work slowly to avoid cracking the glass.

Slide the pick to the top left corner to slice the adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras or sensors.

Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top left edge.

Angle the pick upward to match the curved edge and rotate it around the top left corner.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the cameras.

Slide the pick toward the bottom camera to slice through the remaining adhesive, stopping before you reach the power button.

Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

The wireless charging coil is lightly adhered to the battery.

Be careful not to strain or tear the display interconnect cable under the right side of the charging coil.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the wireless charging coil and the battery.

Slide the pick along the right edge to separate the adhesive.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the NFC antenna press connector from the motherboard.

Repeat for the wireless charging coil press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm-long screws securing the NFC antenna and charging coil.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper right corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Don't pry against the battery. Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Grab and remove the NFC, wireless charging coil, and loudspeaker from the frame.

The wireless charging coil holds these parts together.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm-long screws securing the antenna bracket.

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the lower screw mount of the antenna bracket and the frame.

Pry up on the bracket until you can grab it with blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers.

Remove the lower 5G mmWave antenna.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable from the motherboard.

Repeat for the secondary interconnect located to the left of the primary cable.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable from the charging board.

Repeat for the secondary interconnect cable.

Grab and remove the interconnect cables from the frame.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector from the motherboard.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector from the bottom right corner of the phone.

Remove the screen cable.

Strong adhesive secures the battery to the frame.

Use a pipette or syringe to apply 1-2 drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (greater than 90%) between the left edge of the battery and frame.

Using too much alcohol can damage the display.

Elevate the left edge of the phone for one minute to allow the isopropyl alcohol to flow under the battery and soften the adhesive.

Take care not to puncture the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

Apply a suction cup to the battery, as close to the center of the left edge as possible.

Insert the tip of an opening pick between the left edge of the battery and frame.

Push the opening pick down and rotate it so the long end is between the battery and frame.

Take care not to crease or bend the battery—it can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force while prying the battery up with the opening pick.

Maintain constant pressure on the pick and suction cup until the battery separates from the frame.

Be patient and allow time for the adhesive to separate. If the battery doesn't budge, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Remove the battery.

If you used isopropyl alcohol, wait ten minutes before installing the new battery to allow the alcohol to completely evaporate.