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Samsung Galaxy S22 Speaker Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S22 speaker repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$50 - $150
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:62 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$30 - $90
Labor$20 - $60
Total Estimated Cost$50 - $150

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Speaker Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S22. This repair involves replacing the damaged audio component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement audio part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Heat the bottom edge

Step 1 - Image 1

Let your phone's battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

A [guide|157348|hair dryer|new_window=true], [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 2: Adhesive information

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Step 2 - Image 2

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, note the following:

There's adhesive securing the back cover around the perimeter of the frame.

The adhesive is strongest in the bottom right and top left corners.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

Step 3 - Image 1
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Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the bottom edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Slice the bottom adhesive

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Slide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the left edge

Step 5 - Image 1

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6: Slice the left adhesive

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom left corner.

Slide the pick to the bottom of the camera bezel to slice the left adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 5 mm, as you may damage the antenna flex cable or the power button cable.

Leave the pick in to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7: Heat the right edge

Step 7 - Image 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 8: Slice the right adhesive

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom right corner.

If the adhesive has resealed, insert the pick closer to the bottom edge.

Slide the pick to the top right corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 9: Heat the top edge

Step 9 - Image 1

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 10: Slice the remaining adhesive

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick in the gap at the top right edge.

Slide the pick across the top edge and around the top left corner to slice the remaining adhesive.

Only insert the pick up to 4 mm, as you may damage the rear cameras or flash.

Step 11: Remove the back cover

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Step 11 - Image 2

Grab and remove the back cover.

If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

To apply new adhesive, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

Step 12: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the wireless charging coil from the motherboard.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 13: Unfasten the wireless charging coil

Step 13 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm-long screws securing the wireless charging coil.

Step 14: Unfasten the loudspeaker

Step 14 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 15: Unclip the loudspeaker

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Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the upper left corner of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to engage the clips.

Step 16: Remove the charging coil and loudspeaker assembly

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Grab and remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.

Do not separate the charging coil from the loudspeaker.

Step 17: Disconnect the battery

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Step 17 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 18: Disconnect the interconnect cables

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Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cables from the motherboard.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect both interconnect cables from the charging board.

Step 20: Remove the interconnect cables

Step 20 - Image 1
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Grab and remove the two interconnect cables from the frame.

During reassembly, orient the cables so the "main" ends are toward the top of the phone and the "sub" ends are toward the bottom.

Step 21: Unfasten the motherboard cover

Step 21 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 22: Unclip the motherboard cover

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the bottom of the motherboard cover and the motherboard.

Pry up on the cover to unclip it from the frame.

Step 23: Remove the motherboard cover

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Grab and remove the motherboard cover.

Step 24: Disconnect the left 5G mmWave antenna

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the left 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Step 25: Disconnect the front-facing camera

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the front-facing camera press connector.

Step 26: Disconnect the screen

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the screen press connector.

Step 27: Disconnect the right 5G mmWave antenna

Step 27 - Image 1
Step 27 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the right 5G mmWave antenna press connector.

Step 28: Disconnect the power and volume buttons

Step 28 - Image 1
Step 28 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the power and volume button's press connector.

During reassembly, make sure this cable is under the battery cable.

Step 29: Unfasten the motherboard

Step 29 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm-long screw securing the motherboard.

Step 30: Pry the motherboard up

Step 30 - Image 1
Step 30 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger between the bottom right of the motherboard and the frame.

Pry the motherboard up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Step 31: Remove the motherboard

Step 31 - Image 1
Step 31 - Image 2

Grab the motherboard by the right edge and remove it from the frame.

Be careful not to catch the motherboard on any loose cables.

During reassembly, be sure the cables are above the motherboard when reinserting it.

Step 32: Unfasten the earpiece speaker

Step 32 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.9 mm-long screws securing the earpiece speaker.

Step 33: Unclip the earpiece speaker

Step 33 - Image 1
Step 33 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of your spudger under the left edge of the earpiece speaker.

Pry up to unclip the earpiece speaker from the frame.

Step 34: Remove the earpiece speaker

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Grab and remove the earpiece speaker.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $30-$90)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($50-$150)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S22 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 62 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S22 generates 65 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 95% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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