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Samsung Galaxy S22 Plus Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S22 Plus logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:47 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S22 Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Eject the SIM card tray

Step 1 - Image 1
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the bottom edge of the phone.

Press the SIM eject tool into the SIM card tray hole to eject the SIM card tray.

Remove the SIM card tray.

If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/32804/why-you-cant-really-damage-your-microphone-port-with-a-sim-eject-tool|new_window=true|You most likely didn't damage the microphone.]

Step 2: Heat the bottom edge

Step 2 - Image 1

Let your phone's battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged lithium-ion battery may catch fire if damaged.

A hair dryer, [guide|151116|heat gun|new_window=true], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

Step 3 - Image 1
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Secure a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.

If the back cover is cracked, the suction handle may not stick. Try [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/4MmKE22Cy2MavVZU|lifting it with strong tape|new_window=true], or superglue the suction handle in place and allow it to dry so you can proceed.

Lift the back cover with the suction handle to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame.

If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.

Step 4: Slice the bottom adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

Remove the suction handle.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] for two to three minutes to reheat it.

Leave the opening pick inserted near the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5: Heat the left edge

Step 5 - Image 1

Apply the heated iOpener to the left edge of the phone for 3 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Reheat your iOpener for 30 seconds if necessary.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 6: Slice the left adhesive

Step 6 - Image 1
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Insert a second opening pick into the gap created near the bottom left corner.

Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm, or you risk damaging cables near the camera module.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick inserted near the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1

Apply your heated iOpener to the right edge of the phone for 3 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Reheat your iOpener for 30 seconds if necessary.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 8:

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

Insert a third opening pick into the gap created along the bottom edge.

Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the back cover to slice the adhesive.

Step 9:

Step 9 - Image 1
Step 9 - Image 2

Continue sliding the opening pick up along the right edge of the back cover to slice the adhesive.

Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging any internal components.

Leave the opening pick inserted near the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10:

Step 10 - Image 1

Apply your heated iOpener to the top edge of the phone for 3 minutes to soften the adhesive.

Reheat your iOpener for 30 seconds if necessary.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 11:

Step 11 - Image 1
Step 11 - Image 2

Slide the opening pick in the top left corner across the top edge to separate the remaining adhesive.

Don't insert the pick more than 5 mm to avoid damaging or smearing the rear cameras and flash.

Step 12:

Step 12 - Image 1
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Remove the back cover.

During reassembly:

This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.

If you're using custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].

If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]

Step 13: Disconnect the wireless charging coil

Step 13 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the charging coil's press connector from the motherboard.

Step 14: Disconnect the NFC antenna

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the NFC antenna cable from the motherboard.

Step 15: Unscrew the charging coil

Step 15 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 3.5 mm screws securing the charging coil.

Step 16: Unscrew the loudspeaker

Step 16 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.5 mm screws securing the loudspeaker.

Step 17: Free the loudspeaker

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Insert your spudger in between the left edge of the loudspeaker and the frame.

Pry up to disconnect the clips securing the loudspeaker.

Be careful to not separate the loudspeaker from the charging coil.

During reassembly, press the loudspeaker into the frame until the clips engage.

Step 18: Remove the charging coil & NFC antenna assembly

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Gently remove the charging coil & NFC antenna assembly.

Do not separate the charging coil from the loudspeaker.

Step 19: Disconnect the battery

Step 19 - Image 1
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Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery's press connector.

Step 20: Remove the interconnect cables

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable from the motherboard.

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable from the motherboard.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the primary interconnect cable from the charging board.

Use your spudger to pry up and disconnect the secondary interconnect cable from the charging board.

Step 22:

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the interconnect cables.

During reassembly, make sure that the end of each cable labeled ***MAIN*** is connected to the motherboard, and the ends labeled ***SUB*** are connected to the charging board.

Step 23: Remove the charging board

Step 23 - Image 1

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.4 mm screws securing the charging board.

Step 24:

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Insert the pointed end of a spudger between the top right edge of the charging board and the frame.

Pry up to lift the charging board enough to reach it with your fingers.

Step 25:

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Pull the charging board towards the top of the phone at a 30-degree angle and remove it.

During reinstallation, make sure the red gasket around the charging port is seated flush against the edge of the phone to retain as much ingress protection as possible.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S22 Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 47 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S22 Plus generates 67 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 70% reduction in carbon emissions!

Get a Personalized Repair Estimate

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