Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra Charging Port Repair
Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra charging port repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Charging Port Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
🔩 Replacement Parts
What You'll Need
- Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Heat the bottom edge
Unplug and power off your phone before you begin.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 2: Separate the bottom edge adhesive
Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.
If the back cover is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken cover.
Pull on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Due to tight tolerances, this may take multiple attempts of reheating with the iOpener and separating with the suction cup before you get it right.
If you are having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Do not apply excessive force with the pick, or you risk cracking the back cover glass.
Step 3: Slice the adhesive
Slide the pick back and forth along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.
Do not attempt to cut the adhesive near the corners of the phone where the glass is curved or you risk cracking the glass panel.
Leave your opening pick in the seam to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 4: Heat the left edge
Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.
Step 5: Separate the left edge adhesive
Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the left edge as possible.
Pull on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
As the glass on this edge is curved, you won't be able to insert this pick very far. As long as the very tip of the pick is underneath the glass's edge, you will be able to proceed.
Due to tight tolerances, this may take multiple attempts.
If you are having trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
You can try also applying a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol into the seam to help loosen the adhesive.
Do not apply excessive force with the pick, or you risk cracking the back cover glass.
Step 6:
Once the pick is underneath the glass's edge, tilt it downward and insert it further to fully separate the back cover's adhesive.
Step 7:
Slide the pick towards the bottom edge of the phone to separate the back cover's adhesive.
Leave your pick under the left edge of the glass near the bottom of the device to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8:
Insert another pick under the center of the left edge of the back cover.
Gradually slide the pick towards the top of the device to separate the back cover's adhesive.
Take care when sliding across the ridge in the frame surrounding the volume and power buttons—the cutout in the glass may make it more prone to cracking.
Leave your pick under the left edge of the glass near the top of the device to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9: Heat the right edge
Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 10: Separate the right edge adhesive
Apply a suction cup to the back of the phone, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back cover and the frame.
Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap.
Like with the previous edge, you will need to tilt the opening pick downward to fully insert it underneath the back cover.
Step 11:
Slide the pick towards the bottom edge of the phone to separate the back cover's adhesive.
Leave your pick under the right edge of the glass near the bottom of the device to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 12:
Insert another pick underneath the center of the right edge of the back cover.
Gradually slide the pick towards the top of the device to separate the back cover's adhesive.
As you do this, the bottom edge of the back cover may release the three picks located there. If this occurs, set these picks aside as the bottom edge shouldn't reseal from this point onward.
Step 13: Heat the top edge
Apply a heated iOpener to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.
Step 14: Separate the top edge adhesive
The glass near the corners of the back cover is curved and very susceptible to cracking. Be gentle during this step to prevent damaging your back cover.
Gradually slide the pick from the right edge of the device around the top right corner.
Continue slicing along the top edge to fully separate the back cover adhesive.
If the slicing becomes difficult at any point, stop and reapply heat before continuing.
Step 15: Remove the back cover
Lift the back cover slowly. Use opening picks to slice any remaining adhesive.
Remove the back cover.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers. Apply heat if you're having trouble separating the adhesive.
If you're using Samsung custom-cut adhesives, [guide|152862|follow this guide|new_window=true].
If you're using double-sided tape, [guide|113604|follow this guide.|new_window=true]
Step 16: Disconnect the wireless charging coil
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil connector.
When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
Step 17: Remove the wireless charging coil
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to gently peel the wireless charging coil away from the device.
Remove the wireless charging coil.
During reassembly, reconnect the wireless charging coil connector first to properly align it into place, then firmly press the rest of the coil down to adhere it.
Step 18: Unfasten the motherboard bracket
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the five 3.9 mm-long screws securing the motherboard bracket.
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Step 19: Remove the motherboard bracket
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to unclip and remove the motherboard bracket.
Step 20: Disconnect the battery
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.
Step 21: Unfasten the lower midframe
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the five 3.9 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker and lower midframe.
Step 22: Remove the loudspeaker
Insert the point of a spudger or a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] into the notch in the top left corner of the midframe and pry up to release the clips holding it in place.
Remove the loudspeaker and lower midframe.
Step 23: Disconnect the daughterboard
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the daughterboard near the bottom of the device.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 24: Disconnect the main flex cables
Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the main and auxiliary flex cables from the motherboard.
Step 25: Remove the main flex cables
Gently peel up and remove the main and auxiliary flex cables.
Step 26: Disconnect the left 5G antenna
Pry up and disconnect the left 5G antenna cable from the motherboard.
Step 27: Disconnect the main display cable
Pry up and disconnect the main display flex cable from the motherboard.
Step 28: Reposition the display and 5G cables
Gently peel up and bend the display and left 5G antenna flex cables out of the way of the motherboard and battery.
Step 29: Apply isopropyl alcohol
Apply 1-2 drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol to the gaps in between the frame and the edges of the battery.
Using too much alcohol can damage the display.
Wait one minute to allow the isopropyl alcohol to soften the adhesive.
Step 30: Lift the battery from its adhesive
Apply a suction handle to the center of the battery.
Brace the top and bottom of the device against your work surface with one hand and firmly pull up on the suction handle with the other.
The adhesive takes time and repeated pulls rather than strong force to loosen. Pull on the suction cup with steady force for 15 seconds at a time.
If the battery doesn't loosen after multiple attempts, apply 1-2 drops of isopropyl alcohol along the top, left, and right edges, wait a minute, and pull again.
Continue lifting until the battery separates from the phone.
Step 31: Remove the battery
Remove the battery.
Peel up and/or scrape away any remaining battery adhesive before cleaning the battery well surface with isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth.
If you used isopropyl alcohol, wait ten minutes before installing the new battery to allow the alcohol to completely evaporate.
During reassembly, if your new battery doesn't come with pre-applied adhesive, apply some to the well. Then, firmly press the new battery into place.
Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$72)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($40-$120)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 67 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy S20 Ultra generates 70 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 96% reduction in carbon emissions!
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