Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Vibration Motor Repair

Completely power off your phone before you begin disassembly.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the rear cover, as close to the edge as possible.

If your back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken panel.

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the rear cover and the frame.

Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone or you risk damaging the internal components.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge towards the bottom left corner to cut through the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

While cutting through the adhesive, don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone or you risk damaging the internal components.

Repeat the process of heating and cutting the adhesive along the three remaining sides of the rear cover.

You can insert each new opening pick in the gaps created by the opening picks left in each corner.

As you proceed, leave an opening pick in each corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

Slide an opening pick back and forth around the entire perimeter of the phone to release any missed adhesive. Reheat any stubborn adhesive.

Lift the rear cover straight up to remove it.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector.

Take care to pry only under the edge of the connector to prevent damaging the socket itself and surrounding components.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the white press connector located in the bottom right of the motherboard shield.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4.0 mm screws securing the motherboard shield.

If these screws have not been removed before, they may be difficult to remove as they have threadlocker on their threads.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167?o=4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift up the motherboard shield.

Be careful when handling the motherboard shield because its edges are thin and sharp.

Use your fingers to grip the motherboard shield.

Peel the wireless charging coil up and away from the device to remove it.

The wireless charging coil is secured to the device with light adhesive.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the battery press connector to safely disconnect the battery before continuing repairs.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 4.0 mm screws securing the loudspeaker to the frame.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the hole marked by a triangle on the left side of the loudspeaker.

Use the spudger to pry up and loosen the left side of the loudspeaker.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the hole marked by a triangle on the right side of the loudspeaker.

Use the spudger to pry up and detach the loudspeaker from the frame.

The loudspeaker is secured to the frame by clips along its bottom edge.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift and remove the loudspeaker.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the secondary interconnect cable from the daughterboard.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the main interconnect cable from the daughterboard.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.0 mm screw securing the daughterboard to the frame.

The daughterboard is fitted to the frame by three spring connectors along its bottom edge.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the right side of the daughterboard near the screw boss.

Use the spudger to pry up and detach the daughterboard from the frame.

There are small surface-mounted components underneath the daughterboard. Only insert the spudger as far as necessary to avoid damaging the components.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift and remove the daughterboard.

Do not scratch the copper pads attached to the vibration motor. Doing so may affect its functionality.

The black material on top of the vibration motor is easily damaged. Avoid scratching it.

Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol to the open space next to the vibration motor.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive underneath the vibration motor.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the vibration motor.

Pry up the vibration motor to loosen the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift and remove the vibration motor.

If the vibration motor doesn't easily lift out of the frame, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to weaken. Repeat this process as necessary.

If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new vibration motor.

During reassembly, [guide|113604|follow this guide|new_window=true] if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card to secure the new vibration motor to the frame.