Samsung Galaxy Note 20 Logic Board Repair
Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy Note 20 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy Note 20. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
What You'll Need
- Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Remove the SIM card tray
Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole on the top edge of the phone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.
If you accidentally inserted the SIM eject tool into a microphone hole, don't worry! [https://www.ifixit.com/News/32804/why-you-cant-really-damage-your-microphone-port-with-a-sim-eject-tool|You most likely didn't damage the microphone|new_window=true].
Step 2: Heat the rear cover
Completely power off your phone before you begin disassembly.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 3: Insert an opening pick
Apply a suction cup to the heated edge of the rear cover, as close to the edge as possible.
If your back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken panel.
Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the rear cover and the frame.
Depending on the age of your phone, this may be difficult. If you are having trouble, apply more heat to the edge and try again.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone or you risk damaging the internal components.
Step 4: Begin to cut the adhesive
Slide the opening pick along the left edge towards the bottom left corner to cut through the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Step 5: Cut along the perimeter of the rear cover
While cutting through the adhesive, don't insert the opening pick more than 5 mm into the phone or you risk damaging the internal components.
Repeat the process of heating and cutting the adhesive along the three remaining sides of the rear cover.
You can insert each new opening pick in the gaps created by the opening picks left in each corner.
As you proceed, leave an opening pick in each corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
Slide an opening pick back and forth around the entire perimeter of the phone to release any missed adhesive. Reheat any stubborn adhesive.
Step 6: Remove the rear cover
Lift the rear cover straight up to remove it.
Step 7: Disconnect the wireless charging coil
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector.
Take care to pry only under the edge of the connector to prevent damaging the socket itself and surrounding components.
To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 8: Disconnect the white press connector
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the white press connector located in the bottom right of the motherboard shield.
Step 9: Remove the motherboard shield screws
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4.0 mm screws securing the motherboard shield.
If these screws have not been removed before, they may be difficult to remove as they have threadlocker on their threads.
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167?o=4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Step 10: Remove the wireless charging coil
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to lift up the motherboard shield.
Be careful when handling the motherboard shield because its edges are thin and sharp.
Use your fingers to grip the motherboard shield.
Step 11:
Peel the wireless charging coil up and away from the device to remove it.
The wireless charging coil is secured to the device with light adhesive.
Step 12: Disconnect the battery
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the battery press connector to safely disconnect the battery before continuing repairs.
Step 13: Disconnect the laser AF sensor
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the laser AF sensor press connector.
Step 14: Remove the earpiece speaker screws
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.0 mm screws securing the earpiece speaker.
Step 15: Remove the earpiece speaker
Insert the pointed end of a spudger into the hole marked by a small triangle on the right side of the earpiece speaker.
Use the spudger to pry up and loosen the earpiece speaker from the frame.
The earpiece speaker clips to the frame along the top edge.
Step 16:
Lift and remove the earpiece speaker.
Step 17:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front-facing camera cable from the motherboard.
Step 18: Disconnect the display cable
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display cable from the motherboard.
Step 19: Disconnect the interconnect cables
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the main interconnect cable from the motherboard.
Step 20:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the secondary interconnect cable from the motherboard.
Step 21: Disconnect the remaining cables
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the touch layer cable from the motherboard.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the green press connector from the motherboard.
Step 22:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the S-Pen press connector from the motherboard.
Step 23: Remove the motherboard screws
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.0 mm screws securing the motherboard to the frame.
Step 24: Loosen the motherboard
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the bottom edge of the motherboard.
Pry up to loosen the motherboard from the frame.
Step 25: Remove the motherboard
Lift the motherboard out of the phone.
Be careful not to damage the disconnected press connectors and their cables while removing the motherboard.
Step 26: Check cables during reassembly
When you reinstall the motherboard, make sure that no cables get trapped under the board as you lower it into place. Check these seven locations carefully:
Secondary interconnect cable
Battery cable
Main interconnect cable
Display cable
S-Pen cable
Touch layer cable and green press connector
Front-facing camera cable
Step 27: Disconnect the camera press connectors
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the ultra wide camera from the motherboard.
Step 28:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the telephoto camera from the motherboard.
Step 29:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wide-angle camera from the motherboard.
Step 30: Move the ribbon cable
Bend the ultra wide camera ribbon cable away from the motherboard so that the rear camera assembly can be removed.
Don't bend the ribbon cable more than 90 degrees to avoid damaging it.
Step 31: Remove the rear camera assembly
The rear camera assembly is secured to the motherboard with light adhesive to the right of the telephoto camera.
Remove the rear camera assembly from the motherboard.
During reassembly, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|follow this guide|new_window=true] if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card to secure the new rear camera assembly to the motherboard.
Step 32: Only the motherboard remains
Only the motherboard remains.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy Note 20 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 48 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy Note 20 generates 68 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 71% reduction in carbon emissions!
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