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Samsung Galaxy Book 3 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy Book 3 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:235 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy Book 3. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Access the rubber feet

Step 1 - Image 1
Step 1 - Image 2

Before you begin, shut down your laptop and unplug it.

Close the screen and lay your laptop down with the rear case facing up to access the four rubber feet.

Step 2: Remove the rubber feet

Step 2 - Image 1
Step 2 - Image 2

Insert an opening pick between the rear case and the rubber foot.

Pry up with the pick and dislodge the foot from the rear case.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the rubber foot.

Repeat this process on the remaining rubber feet.

There are two types of rubber feet for this laptop. During reassembly, make sure the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/L2ZoWXvLMERBIVcf.full|top feet|new_window=true] say "M4" and the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2qKDgh1KEc1rBRNs.full|bottom feet|new_window=true] say "M1".

To reinstall a rubber foot, align it over the recess and push down until it's secured.

Step 3: Unfasten the rear case

Step 3 - Image 1
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws securing the rear case.

Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-167-4|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Step 4: Insert an opening pick

Step 4 - Image 1
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Apply a suction handle to the middle of the rear case's bottom edge, as close to the edge as possible.

Pull up on the handle with a strong, steady force to create a small gap between the rear case and the frame.

This may take significant force and multiple tries.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.

Step 5: Release the clips

Step 5 - Image 1
Step 5 - Image 2

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to release the clips securing the rear case.

Continue sliding the pick along the perimeter of the laptop until all the clips securing the rear case have been released.

Step 6: Remove the rear case

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Lift the rear case up and away from the laptop and remove it.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your laptop and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your laptop back down before you continue working.

Step 7: Remove the battery connector's tape

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Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to peel up and remove the tape covering the battery connector.

Set the tape aside. You'll reuse it during reassembly.

Step 8: Disconnect the battery

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Insert the flat end of a spudger under the battery cables, as close to the connector as possible.

Gently pry up and disconnect the battery connector from its socket.

Step 9: Disconnect the fan cable's ZIF connector

Step 9 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end up a spudger to pry up the locking flap on the left fan cable's ZIF connector.

During reassembly, make sure that [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/JYV1NSQ1CaWjpZmT.full|new_window=true|all seven cables] are connected to the daughterboard.

Step 10: Disconnect the fan cable

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Grip the left fan cable's pull tab with [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and gently pull the cable out of its socket.

Step 11: Disconnect the interconnect cable

Step 11 - Image 1
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Use the flat end of spudger to pry up and disconnect both of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/kqknoKDVAaIxbGb1.full|new_window=true| interconnect cable's press connectors] from the daughterboard.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like these, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 12: Disconnect the speaker

Step 12 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the bottom left speaker's connector from the daughterboard.

Step 13:

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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the black antenna cable and slide it as close to the connector as possible.

Gently lift straight up to disconnect the antenna.

The connector is very delicate and can easily break if a quick or strong force is applied.

Repeat the disconnection procedure on the white antenna cable.

To reattach coaxial connectors like these, align the connector over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place. This can be tricky and may take a few tries.

Step 14:

Step 14 - Image 1
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Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the black and white antenna cables out of their clips on the daughterboard.

Step 15:

Step 15 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the locking flap on the backlight cable's connector.

Step 16:

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Grip the backlight cable's pull tab with tweezers and gently pull the cable out of its socket.

Step 17:

Step 17 - Image 1
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Use a spudger to pry up the locking flap on the left display cable's ZIF connector.

Step 18:

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Grip the left display cable's pull tab with tweezers or your fingers and gently pull the cable out of its socket.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the fingerprint sensor's press connector.

Step 20:

Step 20 - Image 1
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five 3.5 mm screws securing the daughterboard.

Step 21: Remove the daughterboard

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

Lift the right side of the daughterboard up and pull towards the center of the laptop to remove it.

During reassembly:

Move all [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/JYV1NSQ1CaWjpZmT.full?pk_vid=701faae513a23856166907558078029d|new_window=true|cables that connect to the daughterboard] (display, fingerprint, interconnect, speaker, backlight, and antennas) out of the way so they don't get stuck under the daughterboard when it's reinserted.

Reinsert the daughterboard at a downward angle to position the headphone jack, USB-C port, and memory slot back into their recesses.

Before securing the daughterboard, make sure the alignment pins on the frame are [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/CRXxFZZMgTd3BwxP.full|new_window=true|in their cutouts on the daughterboard].

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy Book 3 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 235 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy Book 3 generates 255 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 92% reduction in carbon emissions!

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