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Samsung Galaxy Book 2 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy Book 2 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:235 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy Book 2. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Remove the rubber feet

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Before you begin, power down your laptop and unplug it.

There are [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/lRQYnJPK1QMXOcJE.full|new_window=true|two kinds of rubber feet] along the top and bottom of the rear case. Keep track of their position as you remove them.

Insert an opening pick between the rubber foot and the rear case.

Pry up with the opening pick to release the clips securing the foot.

Remove the foot.

Repeat this procedure for the three remaining feet.

During reassembly, press the feet into their correct slot to reinsert them. Mismatched feet won't fit correctly.

Step 2: Unfasten the rear case

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm-long screws securing the rear case.

Step 3: Insert an opening pick

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Apply a suction cup to the rear case, as close to the center of the bottom edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the rear case and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Step 4: Release the clips

Step 4 - Image 1
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Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the rear case to release its plastic clips.

Repeat this process for the left and right edges, but ***stop before reaching the top edge.***

Step 5: Remove the rear case

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The top edge of the rear case is lightly adhered to the frame.

Pull the top of the rear case away from the frame to separate the adhesive and release the remaining clips.

If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, use an [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|iOpener], hair dryer, or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] to soften it.

Remove the rear case.

During reassembly, perform the following:

If you're using a using a genuine Samsung replacement rear case, be sure to peel off any adhesive liners from the rear case before securing the top edge's clips.

If you're reusing your rear case, you can use some [link|During reassembly, %5Bhttps://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604%7Cfollow this guide|new_window=true%5D if you are using a pre-cut adhesive card.|new_window=true|pre-cut adhesive] to re-adhere the top edge if your existing adhesive is no longer sticky.

This is a good point to power on your laptop and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your laptop back down completely before you continue working.

Step 6: Disconnect the battery

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Insert a spudger between the frame and the bottom of the battery cable connector.

Pry up and disconnect the battery cable connector.

Step 7: Unfasten the SSD

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If your Galaxy Book doesn't have an [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/IN6A4pfOoaZH5y5b.full|new_window=true|M.2 2280 SSD], skip the next two steps.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm-long screw securing the SSD.

Step 8: Remove the SSD

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Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 9: Unfasten the heat sink

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the heat sink.

Step 10: Remove the heat sink

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Lift the left edge of the heat sink upward to separate the heat sink from the motherboard.

You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the motherboard with [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/lRdrQsddXVNwa6vy.full|new_window=true| thermal paste].

Remove the heat sink.

Follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|new_window=true|this guide] for how to clean and reapply thermal paste.

Step 11: Unfasten the SSD

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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3.5 mm-long screw securing the SSD.

Step 12: Remove the SSD

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Lift the free end of the SSD up slightly and pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

Step 13: Disconnect the speaker

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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/tvFHcuByKleTAVUs.full|new_window=true|bottom right speaker connector] from the motherboard.

Step 14: Disconnect the interconnect cable

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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the motherboard [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|new_window=true|ZIF connector] for the interconnect cable.

Step 15:

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Disconnect the interconnect cable by sliding it out from its socket on the motherboard.

Step 16: Disconnect the battery extender connector

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Insert a spudger between the frame and the bottom of the battery extender's cable connector.

Pry up and disconnect the battery extender's cable connector.

Step 17: Disconnect the keyboard

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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the keyboard cable.

Step 18:

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Disconnect the keyboard cable by sliding it out from its socket on the motherboard.

Step 19: Disconnect the display

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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/5UnDng51LtgD5Qyj.full|new_window=true|ZIF connector for the display cable].

Step 20:

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Disconnect the display cable by sliding it out from its socket on the motherboard.

Step 21: Disconnect the touchpad

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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the touchpad cable.

Step 22:

Step 22 - Image 1
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Disconnect the touchpad cable by sliding it out from its socket on the motherboard.

Step 23: Unfasten the port bracket

Step 23 - Image 1
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard port bracket.

Step 24: Remove the port bracket

Step 24 - Image 1
Step 24 - Image 2

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers], or your fingers, to remove the motherboard port bracket.

Step 25: Unfasten the motherboard

Step 25 - Image 1
Step 25 - Image 2

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3.5 mm-long screws securing the motherboard.

Step 26: Remove the motherboard

Step 26 - Image 1
Step 26 - Image 2

Lift the left side of the motherboard upward to separate it from its pegs on the frame.

Lift the motherboard straight up to separate the rest of the pegs.

Remove the motherboard.

During reassembly, make sure all of the connectors are above the motherboard before securing it back into the fame.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy Book 2 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 235 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy Book 2 generates 255 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 92% reduction in carbon emissions!

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