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Samsung Galaxy A53 Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Samsung Galaxy A53 logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:40 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Samsung Galaxy A53. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Heat the back cover

Step 1 - Image 1

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 2: Insert an opening pick

Step 2 - Image 1
Step 2 - Image 2

Secure a suction handle to the right edge of the back cover, as close to the edge as possible.

Lift the back cover with the suction handle to create a small gap between the back cover and the frame.

In case you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|iOpener|new_window=true] instructions to avoid overheating.

Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.

Step 3: Slice the adhesive

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

Slide the opening pick to the top right corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 4: Slice the adhesive

Step 4 - Image 1
Step 4 - Image 2

Insert a second opening pick at the top right edge of your phone.

Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5:

Step 5 - Image 1
Step 5 - Image 2

If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|Use your iOpener] for one to two minutes to reheat it.

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom right corner of your phone.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 6:

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Insert a fourth opening pick at the bottom left corner of your phone.

Slide the opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Leave the opening pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1
Step 7 - Image 2

Insert a fifth opening pick at the top left corner.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the back cover to slice the remaining adhesive.

Step 8: Remove the back cover

Step 8 - Image 1

Remove the back cover.

Apply new adhesive where necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

Step 9: Unscrew the motherboard cover

Step 9 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight 3.9 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 10: Pry up the motherboard cover

Step 10 - Image 1
Step 10 - Image 2

Insert the flat end of an spudger into the gap between the frame and the motherboard cover on the right edge.

Use the spudger to pry up the motherboard cover.

Step 11: Remove the motherboard cover

Step 11 - Image 1

Remove the motherboard cover.

Step 12: Disconnect the battery cable

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Use a spudger to disconnect the battery cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 13: Unfasten the loudspeaker screws

Step 13 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.9 mm-long screws securing the loudspeaker assembly.

Step 14: Remove the loudspeaker

Step 14 - Image 1
Step 14 - Image 2

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the right edge of the loudspeaker assembly and the midframe.

Use your spudger to pry up the loudspeaker assembly.

Remove the loudspeaker assembly.

Step 15: Heat the fingerprint sensor

Step 15 - Image 1

The fingerprint sensor of the Galaxy A53 5G is held in place by adhesive.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Step 16: Disconnect the fingerprint sensor

Step 16 - Image 1
Step 16 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the fingerprint sensor from the daughterboard.

Step 17: Remove the fingerprint sensor

Step 17 - Image 1
Step 17 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the fingerprint sensor straight out of its socket.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to remove the fingerprint sensor.

Step 18: Disconnect the antenna cables

Step 18 - Image 1
Step 18 - Image 2

Use a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to pull up and disconnect the black and white antenna cables from the daughterboard.

Grab the cables at the metal ends and not at the cable itself to avoid damaging the cables.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Step 19: Disconnect the interconnect cable

Step 19 - Image 1
Step 19 - Image 2

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the two interconnect cable connectors straight up from their sockets on the daugtherboard.

Step 20: Remove the SIM card tray

Step 20 - Image 1
Step 20 - Image 2

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the bottom right corner of the phone.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

Step 21: Pry up the display connector

Step 21 - Image 1
Step 21 - Image 2

The connector is held in place by mild adhesive.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display connector from the daughterboard.

Step 22: Unscrew the daughterboard

Step 22 - Image 1

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 2.9 mm-long screws securing the daughterboard.

Step 23: Remove the daughterboard

Step 23 - Image 1
Step 23 - Image 2

Use your fingers to remove the daughterboard.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Samsung Galaxy A53 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 40 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Samsung Galaxy A53 generates 60 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 67% reduction in carbon emissions!

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