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Motorola Razr Plus Bluetooth Repair

Complete guide to Motorola Razr Plus bluetooth repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$65 - $190
⏱️ Time:1-2 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:55 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$39 - $114
Labor$26 - $76
Total Estimated Cost$65 - $190

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Bluetooth Repair is one of the most common repairs for Motorola Razr Plus. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1:

Step 1 - Image 1

Loosen the two screws on the battery panel. Then lift the panel up to remove it.

Step 2:

Step 2 - Image 1

Top of the battery pack.

To remove the battery pack, place your fingernail or a spudger at the top of the battery near the L button. Gently lift the battery out.

Step 3:

Step 3 - Image 1
Step 3 - Image 2

Two screws are hidden underneath two rubber feet highlighted in red.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the rubber feet out of the lower case.

Depending on the age of your device, the rubber feet may crumble apart as you pry them out. If so, use a fine-tipped tool to scrape out any stuck pieces of rubber.

Step 4:

Step 4 - Image 1

Remove the following screws securing the lower case to the body of the DSi:

Six 5.2 mm Phillips #00 screws.

One 2.7 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Step 5:

Step 5 - Image 1
Step 5 - Image 2

Insert the spudger in between the lower casing and lower panel near the top right corner of the DSi.

Carefully run the spudger along the edge of the outer casing, creating an opening between the body and the casing.

Continue running the spudger around the body of the DSi until the majority of the lower case has been separated.

Step 6:

Step 6 - Image 1
Step 6 - Image 2

Carefully lift the lower casing from its bottom edge.

The lower case is still attached to the motherboard by the volume and SD board cable highlighted in red. Do not try to completely remove the lower case of the DSi yet.

Pry the volume and SD board cable up from its socket on the motherboard using a spudger.

Once the cable is completely removed, then you may take off the entire outer casing.

Step 7:

Step 7 - Image 1

Flip up the black latch and disconnect the D-Pad/Power Button ribbon cable.

Step 8:

Step 8 - Image 1
Step 8 - Image 2

The power connector (with red and black wires) is difficult to remove without damaging it, unless you take a moment and understand how it works. Look at all of the photos for this step before continuing.

The connector is two pieces -- a white "male" piece (connected to the wires), and a beige "female" part (soldered to the main board).

There is a small "notch" in the female part, to give you a place to insert a small flat-head screwdriver. Put the corner of your screwdriver in there, and twist it gently to push the white part up (away from the main board). Do not try to pull it to the right (towards the battery board).

If it does not lift easily, try again with a smaller screwdriver. You might be pulling the female connector off the board, which will be difficult to repair.

Step 9:

Step 9 - Image 1
Step 9 - Image 2

Remove 4 Phillips screws from the board.

Lift the main board from the bottom end and flip it over to reveal the last connector.

Keep the main board fairly close to the case, making sure not to damage the last ribbon cable holding it in place.

Step 10:

Step 10 - Image 1

Disconnect the ribbon cable by gently using a plastic opening tool to flip up the black connector latch. The cable should easily slide out from the connector.

The motherboard should now be free from the rest of the device.

Step 11:

Step 11 - Image 1

Remove the rubber front-panel button membranes from the device. Pay careful attention to where the buttons go, so you can replace them correctly.

A/B/X/Y button assembly

Select/Start button assembly

Power button

Step 12:

Step 12 - Image 1
Step 12 - Image 2

Remove the plastic buttons and keep them in a safe place.

All of the buttons have "key" notches to prevent them from being inserted incorrectly (backwards or in the wrong place), but it can take a while to figure out where everything goes if they get shuffled around.

Step 13:

Step 13 - Image 1
Step 13 - Image 2

Flip the case open, and push the lower screen assembly out of the frame.

Step 14:

Step 14 - Image 1

To make the repair easier, we recommend removing the bottom LCD screen prior to replacing the top LCD screen.

Using a spudger, or similar tool, pry out the 4 square screw covers.

Step 15:

Step 15 - Image 1

Remove 4 Phillips screws with a #00 Phillips screwdriver.

Step 16:

Step 16 - Image 1

Place a plastic opening tool between the front panel and top edge of the outer case. Slide the tool along the edge as needed to prop open the case.

With the screen facing you, slide the screen side down with your thumbs to separate the screen from the cover.

Step 17:

Step 17 - Image 1

Remove the antenna from the bottom left of the device.

Remove the microphone from the top of the frame.

Step 18:

Step 18 - Image 1

Use a spudger to pry the camera out of its place.

Step 19:

Step 19 - Image 1

Cables for the components in the upper half of the device run through the hinge, which must be carefully disassembled before continuing.

Start by pushing the sliding shaft in the hinge on the opposite side of the wires/ribbons.

Step 20:

Step 20 - Image 1

On the reverse side of the casing, insert the spudger onto the surface of the sliding shaft just left of the LED light channels.

Push the sliding shaft completely through the hinge until it stops and the hinge is released.

Step 21:

Step 21 - Image 1

The right side of bottom case should separate from the top case when you remove the sliding shaft.

Do not pull up too far or the wire hinge may be damaged.

Slide the top case to the right to separate the joint.

Weave the wires and ribbons through the wire hinge to completely separate the top and bottom casings.

Step 22:

Step 22 - Image 1
Step 22 - Image 2

The speakers are soldered to the ribbon cable attached to the upper LCD, so they must be removed at the same time as the LCD.

Lift the top LCD out of the plastic frame. Carefully thread the ribbon cable out of the hinge to avoid damaging it.

Step 23:

Step 23 - Image 1

To remove the speakers, use a spudger or a similar tool to gently pry them off.

Step 24:

Step 24 - Image 1

On the bottom cover, use a screwdriver to remove the 3 Phillips screws holding the battery compartment.

Removing the 2 lower screws also removes the "L" trigger.

The "L" trigger has a spring behind its center and a small metal axle in its joint.

Step 25:

Step 25 - Image 1

Use a small tool to pry the battery compartment off the bottom cover.

Step 26:

Step 26 - Image 1

Use a screwdriver to remove the 5 screws on the stylus holder.

Also disconnect and remove the "R" trigger button, which is held in place by two of the five stylus holder screws.

The "R" trigger has a spring behind its center and a small metal axle in its joint.

Step 27:

Step 27 - Image 1

Under the stylus holder is the SD card port.

Gently lift the SD card port off the bottom cover.

Remove the metal shield and flap from under the SD card port.

Step 28:

Step 28 - Image 1

This picture shows the LCD screen, battery compartment, and SD card slot (metal shield and flap) with bottom outer casing.

Step 29:

Step 29 - Image 1

The complete DSi outer casing can now be replaced. Parts listed left to right: top cover, top LCD screen casing, touch LCD screen casing, and bottom cover.

Follow the guides for the replacement of the DSi components backwards with your new outer casing.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $39-$114)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($65-$190)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Motorola Razr Plus instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 55 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Motorola Razr Plus generates 59 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 93% reduction in carbon emissions!

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