Motorola Moto G Stylus Home Button Repair

Push the button at the base of the stylus to partially eject it.

Remove the stylus.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a straightened paperclip into the hole adjacent to the SIM card tray.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

Grab and remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.

Discharge your battery to 25% or lower and power off your phone before you begin.

A hair dryer or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Apply a suction cup to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.

Pull up on the suction cup with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Slide your opening pick back and forth along the right edge to slice through the adhesive.

Leave the pick in at the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert a second opening pick into the bottom right corner.

Slide this opening pick along the bottom edge to the bottom left corner to slice through the adhesive.

Leave the pick inserted to prevent the bottom edge from resealing.

Insert a third opening pick into the bottom right corner.

Slide this opening pick along the left edge to slice the adhesive.

Don't worry about slicing under the camera bezel. It's separate from the back cover and will be removed later.

Leave the pick inserted in the top left corner to prevent the left edge from resealing.

Insert a fourth pick into the top left corner.

Slide the pick to the top right corner to slice the top adhesive.

Slide an opening pick between the camera bezel and the back cover.

The back cover's adhesive is particularly strong around the camera bezel.

Slide the opening pick around the camera bezel to separate the back cover from the frame.

Grab and remove the back cover by lifting it away from the phone.

If your back cover is still sticking to the frame, slide the pick around the edges of the phone to slice through any remaining adhesive.

Reassembly notes:

To adhere the back cover with custom-cut adhesives, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Replace+the+Adhesive+for+Your+Motorola+Phone/154434|new_window=true|follow this guide].

To adhere the back cover with tape, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|new_window=true|follow this guide].

A hair dryer or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Insert an opening pick under the camera bezel.

Slide the pick around the perimeter of the bezel to slice the adhesive.

If it feels stuck, apply more heat to further loosen the adhesive.

Grab and remove the camera bezel.

Reassembly notes:

This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Test+the+Hardware+on+Your+Motorola+Phone/154941|new_window=true|Follow this guide] to perform a hardware test. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

To adhere the camera bezel with custom-cut adhesives, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Replace+the+Adhesive+for+Your+Motorola+Phone/154434|new_window=true|follow this guide].

To adhere the camera bezel with tape, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|new_window=true|follow this guide].

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 4.1 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

If you can't find all the screws, check under any leftover adhesive residue.

Insert a spudger between the bottom right corner of the cover and the frame.

Pry up to release the clips securing the cover.

Slide the spudger toward the top of the cover and pry to release the right edge.

Grip the right edge of the cover and pull it off the motherboard.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up the battery's press connector.

When you disconnect connectors like these, be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the display's press connector.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the white antenna cable.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the board cable's press connector.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the 5G mmWave antenna's press connector.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3 mm-long screw securing the motherboard.

Lift and fold the graphite film off the battery and flip it onto the motherboard.

Use caution not to tear the film. It's adhered lightly to the battery.

Grab the motherboard from the bottom edge and lift it from its recess.

Be sure the loose cables don't catch on the motherboard as it's removed.

During reassembly, make sure no cables or connectors become trapped underneath the motherboard.

Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the six 4.1 mm-long screws from the loudspeaker.

Insert the point of a spudger between the frame and the right edge of the loudspeaker.

Pry and release the right edge of the loudspeaker.

The loudspeaker is secured loosely to the frame by small clips.

Grab the loudspeaker by its right edge and remove it.

Use the point of a spudger to pry and disconnect the daughterboard cable's press connector.

Use the point of your spudger to pry and disconnect the white antenna cable.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Free the cable from the clip in the top-right of the daughterboard.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

During reassembly, be sure to secure the cable to the clip in the daughterboard.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 3 mm-long screw securing the daughterboard.

Grab and lift the top edge of the daughterboard.

Make sure the daughterboard doesn't snag on any loose cables as you lift it out.

Remove the daughterboard from its recess.

The vibration motor cable is strongly adhered to the frame. Before attempting to peel it, follow this step to weaken the adhesive securing it.

Apply highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the flex cable.

Alternatively, use a [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|new_window=true|heated iOpener], hair dryer, or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] to soften the adhesive.

Use caution to not overheat the battery or surrounding components.

While you wait for the adhesive to soften, remove the vibration motor from its recess:

Insert the point of your spudger between the motor counterweight and the frame.

Pry the motor out of its recess and flip it to the right.

The vibration motor's flex cable is very fragile. Work slowly to prevent tearing the cable.

With blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers], grab the base of the flex cable as close to the frame as possible.

Slowly and steadily peel the cable from the frame.

If the cable feels stuck or re-adheres, apply more isopropyl alcohol or heat.

Remove the vibration motor from the frame.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry the bottom edge of the earpiece speaker up out of the frame.

Remove the earpiece speaker from its recess.

During reassembly, orient the speaker so the raised sides of the connectors are closest to the front-facing camera.

A hair dryer or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Alternatively, use highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) between the bracket and upper left of the frame.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger between the right side of the 5G mmWave antenna bracket and the frame.

Pry up the bracket.

A strong metal tape holds the bracket to the frame. Work slowly to avoid tearing this adhesive tape.

Remove the bracket from its recess.

During reassembly, [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/PxNvlvOjJT6UVUXN.full|new_window=true|remove the old adhesive] from the bracket and frame, then [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/fRKbR5XXFQq5OwNQ.full|new_window=true|apply new adhesive].

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

Additionally, you may use highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to further loosen the adhesive securing the battery.

Apply the isopropyl alcohol into the gaps between the sides of the battery and the frame.

Wait one minute to allow the isopropyl alcohol to penetrate.

Place a suction handle on the center of the battery.

Insert an opening pick between the right edge of the battery and the frame.

Use a steady force to pull on the suction handle and simultaneously pry with the pick.

***Don't use excessive force on the battery.*** Slow, consistent pressure is all that is required to free it from the frame.

Apply more isopropyl alcohol if the battery re-adheres.

Remove the battery from its recess.

Don't reinstall a damaged or deformed battery, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.

If you're reusing your old battery, skip this step.

Peel and remove the foam strip from the bottom of the battery.

Apply the foam strip onto your new battery.

The iOpener may stick to the residue left over from the battery. Clean the surrounding surface with some isopropyl alcohol to prevent this.

A hair dryer, [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun], or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display is susceptible to heat damage.

Peel and remove the board cable from the frame.

Don't fold or sharply bend the cable.

This step shows how to replace the conductive adhesive for the board cable during reassembly. ***If your frame has this adhesive preinstalled, skip this step.***

If necessary, cut the adhesive blocks to fit into contours of the cable channel. The adhesive doesn't need fit the contours perfectly.

Peel the adhesive blocks from the adhesive sheet.

Place the adhesives in the board cable channel. Space them evenly through the channel.

Peel any remaining plastic liners to expose the adhesive.

Use your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel and remove the black tape securing the antenna cable.

During reassembly, you may reuse the tape if the adhesive is intact. If not, [guide|113604|follow this guide|new_window=true] to use a pre-cut adhesive strip instead.

The extra antenna cable length on either side of the frame is very important for its alignment.

Leave no extra length in the cable where it connects to the motherboard, and all of its available length to the daughterboard.

Grab and lift the antenna cable from the frame.

The screen is all that remains.