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Motorola Moto G 5G Logic Board Repair

Complete guide to Motorola Moto G 5G logic board repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$300 - $800
⏱️ Time:3-6 hours
🌍 CO₂ Saved:39 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$180 - $480
Labor$120 - $320
Total Estimated Cost$300 - $800

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Logic Board Repair is one of the most common repairs for Motorola Moto G 5G. This repair involves replacing the damaged logic component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 3-6 hours and requires difficult skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

What You'll Need

  • Replacement logic part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Eject the SIM card tray

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Insert a SIM card eject tool or a straightened paperclip into the hole adjacent to the SIM card tray.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

Step 2: Remove the SIM card tray

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Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

When reinserting the SIM card, make sure it's in the proper orientation inside the tray.

Step 3: Back cover removal information

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Discharge your battery to 25% or less and completely power off your phone before you begin.

Take note of the following seams along the edge of the phone:

''Screen seam'': This seam separates the display panel from the frame. ***Don't pry at this seam.***

''Bezel seam'': This is where the plastic back cover meets the rest of the phone. It's held in place by plastic clips. ***This is where you should pry.***

Step 4: Insert an opening pick

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Insert an opening tool in the bezel seam halfway between the bottom-right corner of the phone and the power button.

Insert an opening pick in the gap you just created.

Step 5: Release the right clips

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Slide your opening pick toward the bottom-right corner of the back cover and release the clips.

As each clip releases, you will hear and feel a pop.

Don't slide the opening pick near the power or volume buttons.

Step 6: Release the bottom clips

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Continue sliding your opening pick towards the bottom left corner to unclip the bottom edge of the back cover.

Step 7: Release the left clips

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Slide your opening pick toward the top left corner to unclip the left side of the back cover.

Step 8: Release the top clips

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Slide your pick around the top left corner and along the top edge to release the clips.

Step 9:

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Slide your pick around the top right corner to release the last clips securing the back cover.

Stop before reaching the volume buttons. Your pick may damage their cables.

Step 10: Remove the back cover

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Don't try to remove the back cover all the way yet, as it's still connected to the frame by the power button cable.

With SIM card slot facing you, swing the back cover open and away from you like you're opening a book.

Rest the cover parallel to the frame.

Don't twist the screen or move it too far away from the frame to avoid damaging the power button cable.

Step 11: Remove the power button

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A small rubber arm connects the power button to its recess. Use caution to avoid tearing this piece.

Use [product|IF145-020|tweezers] or your fingers to unhook the power button's rubber arm from its recess and remove it.

Step 12: Only the back cover remains

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You're now left with the back cover.

This is a good point to test your phone before sealing it up. [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Test+the+Hardware+on+Your+Motorola+Phone/154941|new_window=true|Follow this guide] to perform a hardware test. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 13: Unfasten the power button cable bracket

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Use a PH00 screwdriver to remove the two 3.9 mm-long screws securing the power button cable bracket.

Step 14: Remove the power button cable bracket

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Use your fingers or a pair of blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grab and remove the bracket from the power button cable.

Step 15: Disconnect the power button

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the power button's press connector.

Step 16: Remove the power button

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Grab and remove the power button.

If you're using tweezers, take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 17: Unfasten the motherboard cover

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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight 3.9 mm-long screws securing the motherboard cover.

Step 18: Pry the motherboard cover

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Insert an opening pick between the bottom-left corner of the cover and the motherboard.

Pry up to release the cover's small clips securing it to the frame.

***Don't pry against the battery.*** Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

Work your way around the perimeter to free the cover if it feels stuck.

Step 19: Remove the motherboard cover

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Grab and remove the motherboard cover from the phone.

If you're using [product|IF145-020|tweezers], take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Step 20: Disconnect the battery

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the battery's press connector.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 21: Peel away the tape

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Peel the tape from the display connector.

If you are using a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers], use caution to avoid the battery.

If you're having trouble peeling the tape, [guide|25705|heat an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the tape for 60 seconds.

Step 22: Disconnect the display

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the screen's press connector.

Step 23: Lift the graphite film

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Fold the graphite heat film away from the battery to expose the lower section of the motherboard.

Step 24: Disconnect the board connector

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the board cable's press connector.

Step 25: Disconnect the black antenna cable

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Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the head of the black antenna cable.

Pry on only the metal head of the connector. Avoid lifting the cable itself as much as possible.

Free the cable from the clip below the head of the connector.

During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. Hold the connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector should snap into place.

During reassembly, make sure to secure the cable to the clip below the head of the connector.

Step 26: Disconnect the white antenna cable

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Repeat the previous step for the white antenna cable.

Step 27: Unfasten the motherboard

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Use your Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.9 mm-long screw from the bottom-right corner of the motherboard.

Step 28: Lift the motherboard

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Insert the pointed end of a spudger between the lower left of the motherboard and the frame.

Lift upward on this bottom edge to free the motherboard from the frame.

***Don't pry against the battery.*** Use protrusions in the frame for leverage.

Step 29: Remove the motherboard

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Grab the motherboard from the bottom edge and lift it from its recess.

Be sure the loose cables don't catch on the motherboard as its removed.

Step 30: Remove the main camera

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Flip the motherboard over so that the lens of the main camera is facing down.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry and disconnect the main camera's press connector.

Remove the main camera from the motherboard.

Step 31: Remove the macro camera

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the macro camera's press connector.

The camera may eject from the motherboard. Be careful to not lose it.

Grab and remove the macro camera.

Step 32: Remove the depth camera

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the depth camera's press connector.

The camera may eject from the motherboard. Be careful to not lose it.

Grab and remove the depth camera.

Step 33: Peel away the tape

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Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel the tape connecting the front-facing camera to the motherboard.

Step 34: Remove the front-facing camera

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Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the camera's press connector.

Grab and remove the camera.

Step 35:

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All that remains is the motherboard.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $180-$480)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($300-$800)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your Motorola Moto G 5G instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 39 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Motorola Moto G 5G generates 59 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 20 kg of CO₂. That's a 66% reduction in carbon emissions!

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