Microsoft Surface Pro 7 Charging Port Repair

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Completely power off the Surface before you begin disassembly.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:

These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.

The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and do not insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.

Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the edge of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.

Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.

Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Do not insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, do not insert the pick past the bezel.

Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.

The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.

Insert the point of a pick under the display where you just stopped cutting. Do not insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.

Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Do not slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.

Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.

Do not remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.

Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

Make sure you have your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and spudger within reach.

Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.

Do not put any tension on the display ribbon cables.

Use one hand to hold the screen still.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the battery connector.

Alternating from one side to the other, gently “walk” the connector out of its socket.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape covering the left display cable connector.

Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the tape and pry up on the connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape securing the right display cable to the motherboard.

Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right display cable straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.

Remove the screen.

Once you have reached this step during reassembly, follow the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+7+Screen+Adhesive+Replacement/144382|screen adhesive replacement guide] for the remainder of the repair.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 2.4 mm screws securing the EMI shield.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel back the three pieces of silver tape adhering the motherboard EMI shield to the copper heatsink.

These pieces of tape can be left on the motherboard EMI shield and do not need to be completely removed.

Notice the small arrows surrounding the perimeter of the motherboard EMI shield. These mark the locations of each clip securing the shield to the motherboard.

During reassembly, press down on each of these arrows to make sure the clips are secured.

Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery with your opening tool.

Starting with the clips adjacent to the battery, use an opening tool to carefully pry the motherboard EMI shield straight up from underneath each arrow to disconnect the clips.

Take care to deform the EMI shield as little as possible. It will need to be reused.

Continue using your opening tool to disconnect the clips around the entire perimeter of the motherboard EMI shield.

Take care to deform the EMI shield as little as possible. It will need to be reused.

Remove the motherboard EMI shield.

Gently peel the center thermal pad off of the copper heatsink.

The thermal pads are held in place with light adhesive.

The thermal pads are delicate and tear easily.

Peel the remaining two thermal pads off of the heatsink.

During reassembly, realign the copper strip on the thermal pad with the heatsink.

The heatsink screws are very fragile and can be stripped or broken very easily. Proceed with caution and make a note of where each heatsink screw came out from.

Use a screwdriver to remove the following seven screws securing the heatsink:

Four 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

Three 2.7 mm T3 Torx screws

Gently lift the heatsink straight up and off of the device.

The heatsink will be lightly stuck to the CPU by thermal paste.

During reassembly, be sure to [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|new_window=true|install new thermal paste].

Place the two small holes on each end of the heatsink pipes onto the corresponding pegs in the case to ensure proper alignment.

Use an opening tool to pry up on the edge of the EMI shield covering the microSD card reader connector and remove it from the motherboard.

Take care to deform the EMI shield as little as possible. It will need to be reused.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the microSD card reader ribbon cable.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the microSD card reader.

Remove the microSD card reader.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flap that secures the Surface Connect port connector.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the battery connector.

Gently “walk” the connector out of its socket by alternating from one side to the other.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the following two screws from the right speaker:

One 6.0 mm screw

One 3.8 mm screw

Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently lift the right speaker wire connector straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.

Handle the speaker wires gently; they are delicate.

Grab the right speaker by the end of the top edge and lift it slightly.

Pull the speaker out from the case horizontally and remove it.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect all three camera connectors from the motherboard.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 2.6 mm screws securing the rear-facing camera.

Remove the rear-facing camera.

Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to [guide|25629|disconnect the antenna cable|stepid=64972|new_window=true] covering the front-facing camera ribbon cables.

Move the antenna cable out of the way.

Remove the two front-facing cameras.

The cameras are secured with light adhesive. Use an opening pick to pry them up from underneath if necessary.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the white plastic locking flap of the ZIF connector at the top-left corner of the motherboard.

Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector itself.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the cable out.

Gently slide the flat end of a spudger between the speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the connector.

Carefully pry straight up on the connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Be gentle; the speaker wires are delicate.

During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the white plastic locking flap of the ZIF connector at the bottom-left corner of the motherboard.

Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector itself.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the cable out.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the black plastic locking flap of the ZIF connector at the bottom center of the motherboard.

Be sure to pry up on the hinged flap, not the connector itself.

Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the cable out.

To reinstall ZIF connectors, insert the connector up to the white line, then close the locking flap.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following three screws securing the motherboard:

Two 2.4 mm screws

One 2.3 mm flanged screw

Grab the motherboard by the left edge and lift it up about two inches.

Gently pull the motherboard out from the right edge of the Surface.

Be careful not to snag the motherboard on any cables.

Remove the motherboard.

During reassembly, insert the right edge of the motherboard into place before lowering the left edge down. Make sure the ports are properly aligned and no cables are trapped underneath.

Prop the top edge of the Surface up a couple inches so the whole Surface slopes toward the bottom edge.

Apply adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol underneath the the battery along the top edge.

If you are using adhesive remover, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iFixit+Adhesive+Remover+Preparation/118537|follow these preparation steps first|new_window=true].

Let the adhesive remover sit and soak into the adhesive for 2–3 minutes before continuing.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tools—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

Slide a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the right side of the top edge of the battery.

If you encounter significant resistance at any point during this procedure, stop, apply a little more adhesive remover, and wait for it to soak in.

Slide the card side to side under the upper right battery cell to slice through the adhesive underneath.

Slide a plastic card under the right side of the bottom edge of the battery.

Slide the card side to side under the bottom right battery cell to slice through the adhesive underneath.

Repeat the previous two steps for the left side of the battery to release the two left cells from their adhesive.

Lift each side of the battery with a plastic card and make sure all the adhesive is separated from the battery.

Gently lift the battery out of the case.

Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

During reassembly, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|follow this guide|new_window=true] to clean off old adhesive and apply new adhesive from a pre-cut adhesive card.