Microsoft Surface Pro 7 Camera Repair
Complete guide to Microsoft Surface Pro 7 camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Microsoft Surface Pro 7. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
What You'll Need
- Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Tape the screen
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Step 2: Heat the right edge of the screen
Completely power off the Surface before you begin disassembly.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 3: Take note of the adhesive layout
Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.
The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and do not insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).
Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.
Step 4: Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening
Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the edge of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Step 5: Slide the opening pick under the screen
Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
Step 6: Cut through the screen adhesive
Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 7:
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 8:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 9:
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 10:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.
Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Do not insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, do not insert the pick past the bezel.
Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 11:
The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 12:
Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.
The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.
Step 13:
Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.
Insert the point of a pick under the display where you just stopped cutting. Do not insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.
Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Do not slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.
Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.
Step 14:
Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.
Step 15: Open the Surface
Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.
Do not remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.
Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.
Step 16:
Make sure you have your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] and spudger within reach.
Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.
Do not put any tension on the display ribbon cables.
Use one hand to hold the screen still.
Step 17: Disconnect the battery
Use the pointed tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the battery connector.
Alternating from one side to the other, gently “walk” the connector out of its socket.
Step 18: Disconnect the display cables
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape covering the left display cable connector.
Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the tape and pry up on the connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 19:
Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the silver tape securing the right display cable to the motherboard.
Do not remove the tape from the ribbon cable.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the right display cable straight up and disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 20:
Remove the screen.
Once you have reached this step during reassembly, follow the [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+7+Screen+Adhesive+Replacement/144382|screen adhesive replacement guide] for the remainder of the repair.
Step 21: Remove the motherboard EMI shield
Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 2.4 mm screws securing the EMI shield.
Step 22:
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to carefully peel back the three pieces of silver tape adhering the motherboard EMI shield to the copper heatsink.
These pieces of tape can be left on the motherboard EMI shield and do not need to be completely removed.
Step 23:
Notice the small arrows surrounding the perimeter of the motherboard EMI shield. These mark the locations of each clip securing the shield to the motherboard.
During reassembly, press down on each of these arrows to make sure the clips are secured.
Step 24:
Be careful not to puncture or deform the battery with your opening tool.
Starting with the clips adjacent to the battery, use an opening tool to carefully pry the motherboard EMI shield straight up from underneath each arrow to disconnect the clips.
Take care to deform the EMI shield as little as possible. It will need to be reused.
Step 25:
Continue using your opening tool to disconnect the clips around the entire perimeter of the motherboard EMI shield.
Take care to deform the EMI shield as little as possible. It will need to be reused.
Step 26:
Remove the motherboard EMI shield.
Step 27: Remove the antenna bracket
Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the following four screws from the antenna bracket:
Three 4.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw
Step 28:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the connector next to the rear-facing camera and disconnect it.
Step 29:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up the connector next to the front-facing camera and disconnect it.
Step 30:
Remove the antenna bracket.
Remove the remaining unsecured clear plastic light guide and set it aside.
Step 31: Remove the front camera
Use a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to disconnect the antenna cable covering the camera ribbon cables.
Move the antenna cable out of the way of the camera ribbon cables.
Step 32:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the Hello face camera connector and disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 33:
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front camera ribbon cable off of the front camera connector.
Do not fold the cable.
Step 34:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the front-facing camera connector and disconnect it from the motherboard.
Step 35:
Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the front camera out from the case.
The front camera is held in place by light adhesive.
Step 36:
Remove the front camera.
When installing the new camera, start by placing the posts on the bottom of the camera (marked in red) into the holes in the case to ensure proper alignment. Use a generic adhesive to secure the new camera in place.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Difficult | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Microsoft Surface Pro 7 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 256 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Microsoft Surface Pro 7 generates 260 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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