Microsoft Surface Pro 6 Camera Repair
Complete guide to Microsoft Surface Pro 6 camera repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Camera Repair is one of the most common repairs for Microsoft Surface Pro 6. This repair involves replacing the damaged optics component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires moderate skill level.
🔧 Required Tools
🔩 Replacement Parts
What You'll Need
- Replacement optics part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Heat the screen
Completely power off the Surface before you begin disassembly.
If the screen's glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/Le4oJrfKZTw3DD6y.full|taping over the glass|new_window=true]. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the display until all the glass is covered. Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the Surface warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 2: Take note of the adhesive layout
Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:
These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.
The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut very carefully and do not insert the pick as deep under the display.
Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.
Step 3: Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening
Insert an opening pick into the speaker opening on the screen and slide the pick under the glass. Do not press the pick into the speaker grille, as the grille is easily torn.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Step 4: Slide an opening pick under the screen
Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.
Step 5: Cut through the screen adhesive
Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 6:
Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the Surface warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 7:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the screen. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 8:
Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the Surface warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 9:
Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.
Take care cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Do not insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inches (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged. Once past the display cable area, do not insert the pick past the bezel.
Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.
Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 10:
Reheat the iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the Surface's screen for two minutes.
The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the Surface warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used for more heat, but be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.
Step 11:
Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.
The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.
Step 12:
Insert the point of a pick under the display where you just stopped cutting. Do not insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.
Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. ***Do not slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.***
Keep the pick parallel to the screen throughout the whole procedure so that it doesn't catch on the antennas. Do not press the pick against the case.
Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.
Step 13:
Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, away from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.
Step 14: Open the Surface
Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.
Do not remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.
Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.
Step 15:
Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.
Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.
Step 16: Disconnect the screen
Use an opening pick to pry up one edge of the EMI shield covering the display board.
Repeat this procedure at different points around the shield until it is free.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 17:
Lift the EMI shield away from the display board and remove it.
Step 18:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the display interconnect cable straight up and out of its socket on the board.
Step 19:
Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020-2|pointed tweezers] into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the digitizer connector.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the display as much as you can without bending it.
Repeat this procedure at different points around the shield until it is free. Remove the shield.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 20:
Pull the rest of the shield off of the digitizer connector and remove it.
Step 21:
Use the tip of a spudger to pry the digitizer connector straight up and out of its socket on the screen.
Step 22:
Remove the screen assembly from the Surface.
During reassembly, pause here and follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+6+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/144081|this guide|new_window=true] to replace the screen adhesive.
Step 23: Disconnect the antenna support
Use the point of a spudger to pry the microphone connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Step 24: Unscrew the antenna support
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the antenna support:
Three 4.5 mm screws
One 6 mm screw
Step 25: Remove the antenna support
Use a spudger to lift the antenna support out of its recess in the Surface.
Remove the antenna support.
Step 26: Remove the heat sink shield
Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020-2|pointed tweezers] into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Take care not to puncture the battery with the tweezers while working on this shield.
Step 27:
Repeat the last step for each corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.
Step 28:
Remove the heat sink shield.
Step 29: Remove the heat sink
Remove the ten Torx screws securing the heat sink:
Six 2.6 mm-long T3 screws
Four 3.3 mm-long T5 screws
During reassembly, tighten the heat sink screws in the following criss-cross pattern, one turn at a time, until they're tight:
Step 30:
Use a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU.
Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.
During reassembly, make sure to [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|properly clean the heat sink and CPU, and apply new thermal paste|new_window=true].
Step 31: Remove the camera connector shield
Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020-2|pointed tweezers] into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the camera connectors.
Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.
Repeat this procedure at different points around the shield until it is free. Remove the shield.
Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.
Step 32: Disconnect the front-facing cameras
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the front-facing camera connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Step 33:
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the face-detection camera connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
Step 34: Remove the main front-facing camera
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the main front-facing camera to lift it out of its recess in the case.
Remove the front-facing camera.
Step 35: Remove the infrared face-detection camera
Slide the flat end of a spudger under the infrared face-detection camera to lift it out of its recess in the case.
Remove the face-detection camera.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Difficult | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $36-$150)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($60-$250)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your Microsoft Surface Pro 6 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 256 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new Microsoft Surface Pro 6 generates 260 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 4 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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