Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Battery Replacement

If your screen glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the Surface’s screen until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the screen.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD display.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Take note of the screen adhesive layout before continuing:

These areas only contain adhesive and are safe to cut.

The display board and flex cables sit here close to the edge. Cut carefully and don't insert the pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm).

Fragile antenna cables lie under this part of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure in step 13 to avoid damaging them. The adhesive is also the thickest here.

Insert an opening pick into the top-right speaker cutout on the screen and slide the pick between the glass and speaker grille.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm). Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Rotate the pick toward the bottom of the Surface to slide it underneath the lower edge of the speaker cutout.

Slide the pick down the right edge of the Surface to slice through the adhesive under the screen.

Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance while sliding the pick, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

Leave this opening pick in the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom-right corner and slide it around the corner toward the bottom edge.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.25 in (6 mm) around the bottom-right corner. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Slide the pick along the bottom edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Don't insert the opening pick deeper than 0.45 in (12 mm) along the bottom edge.

Leave this pick in the bottom edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Insert a new opening pick into the bottom left corner and slide it around the corner toward the left edge.

Be careful cutting under the lower 2.5 inches (65 mm) of the left edge. Don't insert the opening pick more than 1/8 inch (3 mm) here. The display cables sit near this part of the bezel and are easily damaged.

Once past the display cable area, you can insert the pick to 0.45 in (12 mm) again.

Slide the pick along the left edge of the Surface to cut through the screen adhesive.

Leave this pick in the left edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

The adhesive is thickest along this edge, and you may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the tablet warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

You may also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate to heat the Surface.

Be careful not to overheat the Surface—the screen and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Don't use a hot plate if the screen has been taped.

Round the left corner with the opening pick and slide it along the top edge of the Surface. Stop when the pick is 2.75 inches (70 mm) away from the left edge.

The next 6 inches (15 cm) of the top edge of the case is covered by the left and right antennas, which sit between the case and the screen bezel. Follow the next steps carefully to avoid damaging the antennas.

Fragile antenna cables lie under the top edge of the screen. Carefully follow the procedure to avoid damaging them.

Insert the point of a pick under the screen where you just stopped cutting. Don't insert the pick deeper than the edge of the bezel.

Carefully roll the pick to the right, pressing the long edge of the pick into the screen adhesive underneath the bezel, cutting the adhesive as you go. Don't slide the pick along the edge of the Surface.

Repeat this motion of inserting the point of the pick where you just cut, and rolling to the right all along the top edge of the Surface, until the pick is 2.5 inches (64 mm) from the right edge of the Surface.

Once you cut the adhesive over the antennas (8.5 inches, or 22 cm, from the left edge), slide the pick the rest of the way along the top edge of the surface and round the top right corner to slice through any remaining adhesive.

Very slowly lift the screen assembly away from the Surface case. If you encounter any resistance, stop and check that all the adhesive is separated.

Don't remove the screen yet. It is still connected to the motherboard by two cables.

Use an opening pick to cut through any remaining adhesive.

Lift the top of the screen assembly away from the case while sliding the bottom of the screen closer to the motherboard display connectors.

Gently lay the screen down on the case with the connectors facing up. Take care to avoid creasing the display cables.

Use this method to remove any EMI shields necessary during your repair:

Use one tip of a pair of [product|IF145-020-5|angled tweezers] to pry up the EMI shield from the gaps between the "teeth."

Repeat this procedure at different points around the perimeter of the shield until it is free.

Try not to deform the shields too much—you will need to reinstall them during reassembly.

To reinstall, correct any deformations to the best of your ability, make sure the "teeth" align with the rim on the motherboard, and press down on the entire perimeter of the EMI shield.

Make sure all "teeth" are snug to the metal rim and not bent underneath the EMI shield.

Make sure the "teeth" are also touching the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ZsTLUVefcIOQiH5M.full|gold conductive strips|new_window=true] on the top of ribbon cables.

Use your tweezers to remove the two EMI shields covering the display cable connectors.

Pry up with the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each display cable from the motherboard.

Remove the screen from the Surface.

During reassembly, pause here and follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Pro+4+Screen+Adhesive+Replacement/145715|this guide|new_window=true] to replace the screen adhesive.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the four 4.5 mm screws securing the antenna support bracket.

Carefully remove the antenna support bracket.

Be careful not to snag any cables. Do not force the bracket out if it is stuck.

Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020-2|pointed tweezers] into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.

Take care not to puncture the battery with the tweezers while working on this shield.

Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

Remove the CPU shield.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:

One 2.4 mm screw along the top of the rectangular plate covering the battery.

Make sure you don't lose this bracket, as it might separate from the heatsink.

One 2.2 mm screw along the bottom of the rectangular plate covering the battery

The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove three 2.4 mm screws securing the fan.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the final 4.4 mm screw securing in the fan cover.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.

During reassembly, use the same method to install these screws, tightening one turn at a time until each screw is snug.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU.

Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan.

The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive.

Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

Carefully remove the heatsink.

During reassembly, make sure to [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|properly clean the heat sink and CPU, and apply new thermal paste|new_window=true].

Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020-2|pointed tweezers] into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the camera connectors.

Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Remove the EMI shield.

Pry up with the pointed end of your spudger to disconnect all three camera cables from the motherboard.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector securing the volume/power button cable.

Gently slide the volume/power button cable out of the ZIF connector.

Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.

Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.

During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the fan and headphone jack ZIF connectors.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to gently slide the fan and headphone jack cables out of their ZIF connectors.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan:

One 2.5 mm screw with coarse threads

Two 2.4 mm screws

Use a spudger to lift one side of the fan.

Pick up the fan and remove it.

Insert one point of a pair of [product|IF145-020|tweezers] into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the microSD card reader cable and connector.

Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Remove the shield.

Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the microSD card reader's connector straight up out of its socket.

Lift the microSD card reader cable up and out of the way of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly.

Only bend the cable as much as is necessary to access the EMI shield. Do not fold or bend the cable sharply.

Insert one point of a pair of tweezers into a gap in the edge of the EMI shield covering the charging assembly cable connector.

Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it.

Try not to deform the shield too much—you will need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Remove the shield.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining lock securing the charging assembly cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the connector.

Alternating from one side to the other, gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two 3.1 mm screws securing the microSD card reader.

Remove the microSD card reader.

Use the pointed end of your spudger to unlock the ZIF connector between the processor and right speaker.

Disconnect the cable from the ZIF connector.

Slide the pointed end of a spudger between the right speaker wires and the motherboard until it is resting against the speaker wire connector.

Carefully pry straight up on the speaker wire connector to disconnect it from the motherboard.

Be gentle—the speaker wires are delicate.

During reassembly, place the new speaker wire harness on top of the connector on the motherboard and gently press it straight down with your finger to reconnect it.

Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the following screws from the fan and motherboard:

Ten 2.4 mm screws

Two 2.2 mm screws

Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the right speaker:

One 4.2 mm screw

One 6.0 mm screw

As you remove the motherboard, there's a chance it'll short-circuit against the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/ec2TYHkvrMK1Gp4m.huge|new_window=true|battery connector]. Block this connection to prevent damage.

Slightly lift the left edge of the motherboard.

Insert a playing card or similar object between the battery connector and the motherboard.

If your card catches on the underside of the motherboard, wiggle the card until it slides fully underneath.

If you're reassembling your Surface Pro with a new battery, remove the playing card now.

Grip the narrow section of the right speaker box and lift it up slightly.

Slide the right speaker back out of the chassis.

Remove the right speaker.

Remove the motherboard by first lifting the left side until it is at roughly a 30 degree angle.

Gently slide the I/O ports on the motherboard out from their openings and remove the motherboard.

During reassembly, make sure the charging assembly, left speaker, and three camera cables are not trapped under the motherboard before you proceed.

Remove the playing card from the battery connector.

Try not to let the iOpener rest against the battery.

Starting at the edge furthest from the battery, slide an opening pick under the battery connector to separate the adhesive underneath.

Make sure the battery connector is completely free from the case.

Prop the top edge of the Surface up a couple inches so the whole Surface slopes towards the bottom edge.

Drip adhesive remover or high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the top edge of the battery.

If you are using adhesive remover, [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iFixit+Adhesive+Remover+Preparation/118537|follow these preparation steps first|new_window=true].

Let the solvent sit and soak into the adhesive for 2-3 minutes before continuing.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tools—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

Slide a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the left side of the top edge of the battery.

If you encounter significant resistance at any point during this procedure, stop, apply a little more adhesive remover, and wait for it to soak in.

Slide the card side to side under the upper left battery cell to slice through the adhesive underneath.

Fully insert your plastic card under the left battery cell and pry up to separate it from the chassis.

Insert your card under the right battery cell and pry up to separate it from the chassis.

After you install a new battery, place a playing card or similar object over the battery connector and ***leave it in place*** until you've installed the motherboard.

Gently lift the battery out of the chassis.

Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard.

To install a new battery.

Peel and remove the old adhesive from the chassis.

Clean any adhesive residue with highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) and a microfiber or lint-free cloth.

Place your [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Pre-Cut+Adhesive+Sheet/113604|new_window=true|replacement adhesive strips] onto the chassis where the old adhesive was located and remove the liner from the battery connector.

Orient the new battery using the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/KL6CtbwnYCHEc2ry.huge|new_window=true|alignment posts] and press it firmly into place.