Microsoft Surface Laptop 4 Water Damage Repair

Allow your laptop's battery to drain below 25% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged.

Unplug all cables and fully shut down your laptop.

Close the screen and lay your laptop down with the rear case facing up to access the four rubber feet.

Each foot has a recess to help pry it from the laptop:

The back feet recesses are closest to the back edge of the laptop.

The front feet recesses are closest to the front edge of the laptop.

Insert one arm of your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] into the recess of one of the feet.

Twist your tweezers and pry up to separate the adhesive and unclip the foot from the laptop.

The feet eject very quickly—be careful not to lose them.

Remove the foot.

Repeat this process on the remaining feet.

This laptop has two different types of feet. During reassembly, make sure the feet go in their correct recesses.

The [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/nRXquFykTJSTSOKs.full|new_window=true|rear feet] have a single center clip.

The [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/LLKrVTNdRdy2pLKd.full|new_window=true|front feet] have three clips and can only be reinserted one way.

Press the feet into their recesses to secure them to the frame.

If the existing feet no longer adhere to the frame, remove the old adhesive and apply a small amount of [link|https://www.ifixit.com/products/tesa-61395-tape|new_window=true|Tesa Tape] where the old adhesive was.

If the feet are damaged or worn out, use [link|https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Dampening-Adhesive-Furniture-Hemispherical/dp/B08JH3RZPN/ref=sr_1_4?crid=20JARCXB10662&keywords=8mm%2Brubber%2Bfeet&qid=1673902628&s=hi&sprefix=8mm%2Brubber%2Bfeet%2B%2Ctools%2C121&sr=1-4&th=1|new_window=true|8 mm rubber furniture pads]:

Peel a pad away from its backing.

Align the pad over a foot cavity and press down to secure it.

These screws strip easily. Apply constant, downward force to prevent stripping.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3 mm screws securing the upper case.

Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Flip your laptop over and fully open the screen.

The upper case is secured by magnets.

Grip the top edge of the upper case above the keyboard and lift straight up to release it.

Don't try to completely remove the upper case, as it's still connected to the laptop by a cable.

Lift the bottom edge of the upper case up and away from the laptop, taking care to not strain the ribbon cable underneath.

During reassembly, lower the upper case onto the lower case until the magnets snap into place and it lays flat.

Check that the upper case sits flush around the entire perimeter. Any gaps between the upper and lower case near the screen could damage the screen as it closes.

The keyboard and touchpad cable connects the upper case to the laptop.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger under one edge of the magnet connector and pry up to disconnect it.

To reconnect the cable, align the magnet connector over its socket with the cable facing the bottom of the laptop. Press down on the connector to secure it.

Remove the upper case and set it keyboard-side down on a clean surface.

Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 2.7 mm screw securing the SSD.

With the screw removed, the SSD pops up at a shallow angle.

Removing the SSD also [guide|127277|functions as a battery disconnect|stepid=247760|new_window=true].

Pull the SSD out of its socket and remove it.

Don't pull up at a sharp angle, as this could damage the SSD and its socket.

During reassembly, insert the SSD at a slight angle.

Try not to deform the shield too much. You'll need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Insert the pointed end of a spudger in one of the gaps on the top edge of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/GUgG2q4vHaAvHTsf.full|heatsink shield|new_window=true].

Gently pry up to release the clips securing the shield.

Repeat this process along the right edge.

Insert one arm of your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] under the bottom right edge of the heatsink shield.

Gently pry up to release the remaining clips.

Remove the heatsink shield.

To reinstall a shield, press down around its perimeter to engage the shield clips.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to flip up the locking flap on the fan cable [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|new_window=true|ZIF connector].

Grip the fan cable pull-tab with tweezers and pull the cable straight out of the connector.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the nine screws securing the heatsink:

Two 2.5 mm screws

Two 2 mm screws

One 3 mm screw

Two 4.1 mm screws

Two 3.4 mm screws

During reassembly:

Align the heatsink with the centering peg on the motherboard.

Tighten the four CPU tension screws in an "***X***" pattern: top left, bottom right, top right, bottom left.

Thermal paste bonds the heatsink to the CPU.

Insert your spudger under the left heat pipe.

Pry up to release the left section of the heatsink.

This may take some force. Be careful not to bend the heat pipes.

Repeat this procedure for the right heat pipe and the CPU screw mounts until the heatsink is completely separated from the motherboard.

Lift the heatsink and fan over the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/JnXAgSEI6C1ZlLdg.full?pk_vid=2cae306b1ed1f0ae1679334006a14944|new_window=true|alignment peg] in the upper right corner.

Slide the heatsink and fan toward the front edge of the laptop and remove it.

Before reinstalling the heatsink, follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|this guide|new_window=true] to clean the heatsink and CPU and reapply thermal paste.

Insert one arm of your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] under the corner of the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/Qdsk54R4WXvJXLud.full|left display cable shield|new_window=true].

Gently pry up to release the clips securing the shield.

Try not to deform the shield too much. You'll need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Repeat this process around the perimeter of the shield until you can remove it.

Pull the left display cable shield way from the screen to free it from its recess.

Remove the shield.

Repeat the previous two steps to remove the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/QYdYpJDDCtUZEXPy.full|new_window=true|right display cable shield].

Some motherboard screws are located under [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/uDrrJGGUSllrMeAq.full|new_window=true|two of the metal shields], both of which need to be removed.

Insert one arm of your tweezers under the corner of the left touchpad shield.

Gently pry up to release the clips securing the shield.

Try not to deform the shield too much. You'll need to reinstall it during reassembly.

Repeat this process around the perimeter of the shield until you can remove it.

Remove the left motherboard shield.

There may be thermal paste between the motherboard and its left shield.

Before reinstalling the left motherboard shield, follow [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Apply+Thermal+Paste/744|this guide|new_window=true] to clean and reapply thermal paste.

Insert one arm of your tweezers under the corner of the right motherboard shield and pry around its perimeter up to release the clips.

Remove the right motherboard shield.

During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to gently push the display cables back into their cavity in the lower case after reconnecting the press connectors.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect all four display cable press connectors.

To re-attach [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s70308|press connectors|new_window=true], carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down in the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift and disconnect the right speaker wire from its connector on the motherboard.

Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the locking arm on the Surface Connect port connector.

Grip the Surface Connect port cable and pull it straight out of its socket.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift and disconnect the left speaker wire from its connector near the left ports.

Slide one arm of your tweezers under the ***black*** [guide|25629|antenna connector|stepid=64972|new_window=true], as close to the head as possible.

Lift straight up to disconnect the cable.

To reattach antenna connectors, align the head of the connector over its socket and press down with the flat end of a spudger. The connector will snap into place.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3 mm screws securing the motherboard bracket.

Remove the motherboard bracket.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the left port cover.

Remove the left port cover.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six 2 mm screws securing the motherboard.

If any of your screws have rubber covers, peel and remove them.

The left edge of the motherboard is held tight by the port cutouts, the speaker, and the frame.

Lift the right edge of the motherboard slightly over the battery.

Hold the motherboard in place while you follow the step to free the left edge.

A [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/h6rHVYReNRYb3mZM.huge|new_window=true|tab on the upper left of the motherboard] presses against protrusions in the frame, preventing the left edge from coming free.

Insert the tip of a spudger against the tab in the upper left corner of the motherboard. Wedge the spudger between the frame and the screen hinge.

Pry up on the tab with your spudger while you lift the right edge of the motherboard toward the front of the laptop.

If the motherboard can't lift over the left speaker, the tab may still be stuck. Change the angle of your spudger and try again.

Remove the motherboard.

Ensure the two screwpost braces underneath the motherboard don't get lost during removal.

During reassembly:

Make sure none of the eight cables get trapped underneath.

Position the left ports in their recess before sliding the motherboard into place.

A [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Hair+Dryer+to+Soften+Adhesive/157348|new_window=true|hair dryer] or [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Use+a+Heat+Gun+to+Soften+Adhesive/151116|new_window=true|heat gun] may also be used.

Slide an opening pick under the battery cable and pry up to separate it from the frame.

If the adhesive is stubborn, don't force the pick. Reheat the cable and try again.

During reassembly:

If your battery cable has a plastic liner, remove it. Otherwise, apply double-sided tape to the underside of the cable.

Line up the cable with its screw post and alignment peg, and press down to secure the cable to the frame.

Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the six 2.7 mm screws securing the battery spacers to the frame.

During reassembly, skip this step if you've already installed your battery spacers.

The next few steps use adhesive remover. Isopropyl alcohol (greater than 90%) can also be used, but the process will take significantly more time.

iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover.

***Do not*** wear contact lenses without eye protection.

Wear protective gloves to prevent skin irritation.

Hold your bottle of adhesive remover right side up and pull off the black rubber stopper.

Loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

***If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.*** This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip.

Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

Cut close to the tip so the adhesive remover can be applied in small amounts.

Securely close the bottle cap before moving on to the next step.

Adhesive remover may damage components in the laptop.

Place a paper towel under the battery contact cable to prevent excess adhesive remover from flowing through its cutout.

Prop up the front edge of your laptop slightly to allow the adhesive remover to flow under the battery.

Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the elevated edge of the battery cells.

Wait two minutes for the adhesive to soften.

There are [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/POTbxFK1FtYVC6ic.huge|multiple layers of adhesive|new_window=true] securing the battery. If at any point the battery feels stubborn, apply a few more drops of adhesive remover and wait two minutes before continuing.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery, as doing so may release dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

Insert a [product|IF145-101|plastic card] under the elevated edge of the left battery cell.

Slide the card under the battery to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Slide your plastic card around the outer corner of the left battery cell.

Slide your plastic card under the outer edge of the left battery cell to completely separate it from the frame.

Avoid bending the battery board as you insert your card. The board may snap if pried at a sharp angle.

Remove your plastic card so it's only underneath the battery board.

Keep your card under the battery board and slide it to the middle cell.

Slide your card under the middle battery cell to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Take care not to bend the battery or battery board.

Separate the right battery cell adhesive using the same process as the left cell.

Slide your plastic card under the right battery spacer, on the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/mYfIVUPyPFtwHcOA.huge|new_window=true|inside edge of the screw posts in the frame].

If your spacer is still strongly adhered to the frame, use an opening pick or spudger to lift it enough to get the plastic card underneath.

Slide a spudger under the plastic card and gently lift to separate the adhesive securing the battery spacer to the frame.

Slide your plastic card again underneath the left battery spacer and pry it up with a spudger.

If any part of the battery feels stuck to the frame, check for remaining adhesive and slice it with your plastic card.

Remove the battery from its recess.

Use adhesive remover or highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to soften any residue on the frame.

Wipe the residue from the frame using a [product|IF145-284|microfiber] or lint-free cloth.

Your new battery must have the spacers between the cell groups before installing it.

If your new battery comes with the spacers, then it's ready to be installed, and you can skip to [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Microsoft+Surface+Laptop+4+(15-inch)+Battery+Replacement/156817#s333590|new_window=false|this step]. If not, follow the next four steps to transfer the spacers to your frame.

Flip your battery over and locate the spacers between the cell groups.

Use your fingers to peel away any adhesive strips from the battery spacers.

You don't need to completely remove the leftover adhesive—only the strips that are covering the spacers.

Hold up the battery cell groups on either side of the right spacer.

Peel the spacer from the strips of tape connecting the cell groups.

Remove the spacer.

If you can't easily access the left battery spacer, fold the battery contact cable out of the way.

Peel the left spacer from the strips of tape connecting the left cell groups and remove it.

Orient the battery spacers so their screw holes are on the outside.

Use your T3 Torx driver to install the six 2.7 mm screws into the spacers.

During reassembly:

Orient your battery using the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/X5PJbJQMIVMpNJdk.huge|new_window=true|two alignment pegs and six screw posts in the frame].

If your new battery already has adhesive, peel off it's protective liners. If not, secure the battery with thin double-sided tape such as [https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Tesa-61395-Tape/IF317-072-4|Tesa 61395|new_window=true].

Set the battery into place. Firmly press on the entire surface of each battery cell to secure it to the frame.