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MacBook Pro 16" M3 Charging Port Repair

Complete guide to MacBook Pro 16" M3 charging port repair. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.

💰 Cost:$40 - $120
⏱️ Time:30 min - 1 hour
🌍 CO₂ Saved:317 kg

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💰 Cost Breakdown

Parts$24 - $72
Labor$16 - $48
Total Estimated Cost$40 - $120

💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.

🔧 Repair Overview

Charging Port Repair is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 16" M3. This repair involves replacing the damaged connectivity component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 30 min - 1 hour and requires easy skill level.

🔧 Required Tools

🔩 Replacement Parts

What You'll Need

  • Replacement connectivity part (OEM or aftermarket)
  • Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
  • Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
  • Adhesive strips or glue
  • Clean workspace with good lighting

Step-by-Step Process

Step 1: Prepare your MacBook for disassembly

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Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.

Fully shut down your MacBook, close the lid, and flip it over. ***Keep the lid closed*** until you've physically disconnected the battery.

Unplug the MagSafe cable and any accessories connected to your MacBook.

Step 2: Unfasten the lower case

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Throughout this repair, [product|IF145-491|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

Use a P5 pentalobe driver to remove the eight screws securing the lower case:

Four 9.2 mm-long screws along the back edge (near the screen hinge)

Four 5 mm-long screws along the front edge (near the trackpad)

Step 3: Release the sliding clips

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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the lower case and the right screen hinge.

Lever your spudger against the hinge to push the lower case away from it.

Repeat for the left hinge.

Step 4: Lower case information

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After you've released the sliding clips along the back edge, four remaining clips secure the lower case to the frame:

Two clips near the cutouts in the frame

Two clips near the middle of the lower case

As you release the lower case from the frame, you'll hear and feel a distinct "pop" as each of these four clips release.

Step 5: Release the right clips

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Don't insert your tool deeper than 1 cm (a little less than half an inch) near the front of the speaker cutouts to avoid damaging the speakers.

Insert the flat end of your spudger into the front of the cutout in the right side of the frame.

Slide your spudger toward the back of the cutout and pry up to release the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/XNHit5a1EDIPOytu.huge|two right-side clips|new_window=true].

Repeat for the left-side speaker cutout to release the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/54QEiqnvU2MpFxxD.huge|two left-side clips|new_window=true].

Step 6: Remove the lower case

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Remove the lower case.

To reinstall the lower case:

Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.

When one side is engaged, it may push the other out of alignment. Check both sides as you push.

Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.

You'll hear and feel each clip snap into place.

Step 7: Unfasten the trackpad connector cover

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Use a 3IP Torx Plus driver to remove the two 2.1 mm-long screws securing the trackpad connector cover.

Step 8: Remove the trackpad connector cover

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Remove the trackpad connector cover.

Step 9: Disconnect the trackpad

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Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad press connector from the logic board.

To re-attach [guide|25629|press connectors|stepid=70308|new_window=true] like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't force it, since a misaligned connector can bend the pins, and cause permanent damage.

Step 10: Move the trackpad cable

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Light adhesive secures the trackpad cable to the battery board.

Peel the trackpad cable from the battery board and move it over the front edge of the MacBook.

Be careful not to crease or damage the cable.

Step 11: Soften the battery data cable adhesive

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The battery data cable is adhered to the battery board and logic board. In the next few steps, you'll disconnect it, separate its adhesive, and remove it.

If you don't have an iOpener, you can [guide|157348|use a hair dryer|new_window=true] to lightly heat the cable. Be careful not to overheat the battery, as doing so is a fire hazard.

Step 12: Reveal the battery board ZIF connector

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Use your [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to peel back the tape covering the battery data cable [guide|25629|ZIF connector|stepid=64969|new_window=true] on the battery board.

Step 13: Unlatch the ZIF connector

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Use the point of your spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the battery data cable ZIF connector on the battery board.

Step 14: Disconnect the battery board

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Use your tweezers to slide the connector straight out of its socket to disconnect it from the battery board.

Step 15: Reveal the logic board battery data ZIF connector

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Use your tweezers to peel back the tape covering the battery data cable ZIF connector on the logic board.

Step 16: Unlatch the ZIF connector

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Use the point of your spudger to flip up the small locking flap on the logic board battery data ZIF connector.

Step 17: Disconnect the logic board battery data cable

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Use your tweezers to grip the neck of the cable and slide it straight out of its socket to disconnect it from the logic board.

Step 18: Separate the battery data cable adhesive

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The battery data cable is lightly adhered to the battery board and logic board.

Slide the tip of an opening pick between the upper section of the battery data cable and the logic board to separate the adhesive.

Slide your pick between the lower section of the cable and the silver wide-head screw to separate the remaining adhesive.

Step 19: Remove the battery data cable

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Remove the battery data cable.

Step 20: Unfasten the battery connector

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Use a 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 3.9 mm-long wide-head screw securing the main battery connector.

Step 21: Disconnect the main power connector

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Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the main battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.

Lift the connector high enough that it doesn't accidentally make contact during the repair, but ***no more than 45 degrees to prevent breaking it***.

For added safety, place a non-conductive barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and board.

Step 22: Unfasten the trackpad

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Use your 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the ten 5.8 mm-long screws securing the trackpad.

During reassembly, you may need to open your MacBook to check for alignment as you tighten the screws. Adjust the trackpad so that the edges don't rub against the frame.

Step 23: Lift the body of the MacBook

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Slowly lift the body of your MacBook away from the screen and guide the trackpad cable through its cutout.

The trackpad will remain on the screen.

During reassembly, make sure all the screw holes align with their holes in the frame as you lower it onto the trackpad.

Step 24: Remove the trackpad

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Remove the trackpad.

Make sure not to lose the six small metal washers from their screw posts on the trackpad. Without them, your trackpad won't sit flush in the frame.

Step 25: Unfasten the battery board

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Lower the body of your MacBook flat to the screen.

Use your 5IP Torx Plus driver to remove the 4.1 mm-long screw securing the battery board.

Step 26: Flip over your MacBook

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Check that your [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/fHQsrXYIeAwAkwYo.huge|battery connector|new_window=true] ***isn't sticking out beyond the frame***, as it could break when you flip your MacBook over and lay it down.

Place a soft cloth on your work surface.

Flip your MacBook over and lay it on the cloth.

Open the screen enough to access the trackpad recess.

Step 27: Adhesive information

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Your MacBook's battery is secured with 14 [link|https://www.ifixit.com/News/45779/ask-ifixit-what-is-stretch-release-adhesive-and-why-do-we-love-it|stretch release adhesive strips|new_window=true]. The next five steps show how to remove them and free your battery.

Six strips are accessible from the trackpad recess.

The remaining eight strips are on the edges of the outer battery cells.

Step 28: Remove the stretch release adhesive

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Use blunt nose [product|IF145-020|tweezers] to grip the black pull tab on one of the adhesive strips through its cutout in the frame.

Grip the entire length of the strip's pull tab and pull it slowly, evenly, and at a low angle out from underneath the battery cell. Twist your tool to wrap the strip around itself as you pull.

Give the strip plenty of time to stretch. Avoid dragging it over the frame as you pull.

If you're using your fingers to remove the strip, re-grip it often to avoid it stretching unevenly and tearing.

Repeat for the other five strips accessible from the trackpad recess.

If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery. If you can't retrieve it, don't worry! Move on to the next step to remove the other strips, then keep reading for an alternate method to remove the stuck battery cells.

Step 29: Flip over your MacBook

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Be careful as you move your MacBook—the middle battery cells might be loose. They won't fall out, but don't let them strain any cables or components.

Close the screen and flip over your MacBook, so the battery faces up.

There are two pull tabs on the outer edge of each of the four outer battery cells.

Step 30: Peel the pull tabs

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Don't use metal or sharp tools near the battery, and be careful not to dent or puncture it.

Use the tip of an opening pick to peel up an edge of one of the adhesive strip pull tabs.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the pull tab and separate it from the edge of the battery cell.

Step 31: Remove the stretch release adhesive

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Grip the entire length of the strip's pull tab and pull it slowly, evenly, and at a low angle out from underneath the battery cell. Twist your tool to wrap the strip around itself as you pull.

Give the strip plenty of time to stretch. Avoid dragging it over the speakers as you pull.

If you're using your fingers to remove the strip, re-grip it often to avoid it stretching unevenly and tearing.

Repeat the last two steps for the other seven strips.

If a strip breaks off, try to retrieve it from under the battery. If you can't retrieve it, read on to the next step for an alternate method to remove the battery.

Step 32: Alternate method to remove the battery

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If you removed all 14 stretch release adhesive strips, you can now [guide|167548|remove the battery|stepid=354514]. If not, follow the next three steps to separate the remaining adhesive with isopropyl alcohol and an opening pick.

Open your screen and place a paper towel or absorbent cloth between it and the trackpad recess to protect the screen from any residual isopropyl alcohol.

Step 33: Apply isopropyl alcohol

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Prop up the edge of your MacBook where the stuck adhesive strips are.

Use a pipette or syringe to apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to the outside edges of the stuck battery cells.

Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to flow underneath the stuck battery cells and soften the adhesive.

Step 34: Pry up the stuck cells

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Don't bend or crease your battery cells. If they feel stubborn, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol and try again.

Insert the flat end of an opening pick between the stuck battery cell and the speaker.

Slowly and steadily pry up the battery cell.

Depending on how strong your adhesive is, this may take some time. Allow up to a minute of constant pressure for the adhesive to loosen.

Repeat this process for any additional stuck cells.

Step 35: Remove the battery

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Remove the battery.

To install a new battery:

Peel any residual adhesive strips from the frame.

Clean the frame with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free or microfiber cloth.

If your battery comes with adhesive pre-installed, remove the liners and firmly press each cell into place.

If your battery doesn't come with adhesive pre-installed, apply a couple strips of [product|IF317-072-2|thin, double-sided tape|new_window=true] to each cell and firmly press it into place.

📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.

iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm

DIY vs Professional Repair

✋ DIY Repair

  • ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $24-$72)
  • ✅ Learn new skills
  • ❌ Risk of further damage
  • ❌ No warranty
  • ❌ Requires tools and time

🔧 Professional Repair

  • ✅ Expert installation
  • ✅ Warranty included
  • ✅ Faster turnaround
  • ❌ Higher cost ($40-$120)
  • ❌ Need to find reputable shop

Environmental Impact

By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 16" M3 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 317 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 16" M3 generates 320 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 3 kg of CO₂. That's a 99% reduction in carbon emissions!

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