MacBook Pro 16" M2 Trackpad Replacement
Complete guide to MacBook Pro 16" M2 trackpad replacement. Cost estimates, difficulty level, time required, and environmental impact.
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💰 Cost Breakdown
💡 Tip: Costs vary by location and repair shop. Authorized service centers typically charge more than independent repair shops.
🔧 Repair Overview
Trackpad Replacement is one of the most common repairs for MacBook Pro 16" M2. This repair involves replacing the damaged input component with a new or refurbished part. The process typically takes 1-2 hours and requires moderate skill level.
What You'll Need
- Replacement input part (OEM or aftermarket)
- Precision screwdriver set (Phillips #000 or pentalobe)
- Opening tools (plastic spudger, suction cup)
- Adhesive strips or glue
- Clean workspace with good lighting
Step-by-Step Process
Step 1: Prepare your MacBook for disassembly
Allow your MacBook's battery to drain below 10% before starting this repair. A charged battery may catch fire if damaged during the repair.
Unplug all cables and fully shut down your MacBook.
Close the lid and flip your MacBook over. Keep the lid closed until you've physically disconnected the battery.
Opening the lid will power on your MacBook. If you're using macOS Big Sur v11.1 or earlier, disable this function using [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Disable+Auto+Boot/110034|new_window=true|this guide].
Step 2: Unfasten the lower case
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove the six screws securing the lower case:
Two 6.8 mm screws
Two 5.3 mm screws
Two 3.4 mm screws
Throughout this repair, [https://www.ifixit.com/products/fixmat|keep track of each screw|new_window=true] and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.
Step 3: Separate the lower case
Apply a suction handle near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle to create a gap between the lower case and the frame.
Step 4: Release the left clips
Insert an opening pick between the lower case and the frame.
Slide the pick around the left corner to release the first set of clips.
You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip releases.
Step 5: Release the right clips
Slide your opening pick around the right corner to release the second set of clips securing the lower case.
Step 6: Pry the lower case up
Insert your opening pick between the lower case and the frame near the middle left screw hole.
Firmly twist the pick until the clip releases.
Repeat this procedure for the clip near the middle right screw hole.
Step 7: Release the remaining clips
Firmly pull the lower case away from the screen hinges to release the last clips securing it to the frame.
This motion requires significant force. Don't pull the lower case up, as you may bend the clips.
If it feels stuck, pull one corner at a time.
Step 8: Remove the lower case
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinges. Press down and slide the lower case toward the hinges.
Once the lower case is secured near the hinges, press down firmly to engage the remaining four clips.
You'll hear and feel a pop when each clip engages.
Step 9: Remove the battery board cover
Use [product|IF145-020-4|blunt nose tweezers] or your fingers to peel and remove the cover from the battery board, just above the middle battery cell.
Step 10: Disconnect the battery data cable
Use blunt nose tweezers to gently peel back the pull tab covering the battery data connector.
Don't remove or tear the pull tab, as it's attached to the head of the connector.
Step 11:
Use the point of a spudger to flip up the small locking tab securing the battery data connector.
Locking tabs on [link|https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Recognizing+&+Disconnecting+Cable+Connectors/25629#s64969|ZIF connectors] are fragile—be gentle with your spudger.
Step 12:
Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to grab the battery data cable pull tab and slide it straight out of its socket.
Move the cable to the left, out of the way of the battery board.
Don't strain the cable, as it's still attached to the battery board.
Step 13: Unfasten the battery connector
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm screw securing the battery connector.
Step 14: Disconnect the battery
Use the flat end of your spudger to slightly lift the battery connector away from the battery board.
Lifting the connector too high will break it. Angle it enough so it won't accidentally contact the battery board during repair.
Optionally, you may insert a barrier, such as a piece of a playing card, between the connector and the board during the repair.
Step 15: Remove the trackpad cable bracket
Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable bracket.
Remove the bracket.
Step 16: Disconnect the trackpad
Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board.
Step 17: Heat the trackpad cable
Apply a [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|heated iOpener|new_window=true] to the trackpad cable for one minute.
Step 18: Reposition the trackpad cable
Use your fingers to peel the trackpad cable from the battery.
Fold the cable over the front edge of the MacBook.
Don't strain the cable, as it's still connected to the trackpad.
Step 19: Unfasten the trackpad
Use your T5 Torx driver to remove the ten screws securing the trackpad:
Two 4.3 mm screws
Eight 5.8 mm screws
Step 20: Remove the trackpad
Open your MacBook by lifting the body away from the display and trackpad.
Feed the trackpad cable through its cutout in the frame.
Before reinstalling the trackpad, thread the trackpad cable through the [link|https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/hyCH2WRsX1CrWI2y.huge|new_window=true|narrower of two slots] at the base of the frame.
Step 21:
Remove the trackpad from the display.
Be careful not to lose the six small washers from the trackpad screw posts:
Four rectangular washers
Two circular washers
Make sure your new trackpad has a ribbon cable installed before reassembly. If necessary, transfer the old cable, or install the one your new trackpad came with.
📖 Repair guide provided by iFixit - The free repair manual. Licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 3.0.
iFixit Difficulty: Moderate | Time: NaNh NaNm
DIY vs Professional Repair
✋ DIY Repair
- ✅ Lower cost (parts only: $48-$120)
- ✅ Learn new skills
- ❌ Risk of further damage
- ❌ No warranty
- ❌ Requires tools and time
🔧 Professional Repair
- ✅ Expert installation
- ✅ Warranty included
- ✅ Faster turnaround
- ❌ Higher cost ($80-$200)
- ❌ Need to find reputable shop
Environmental Impact
By choosing to repair your MacBook Pro 16" M2 instead of replacing it, you're preventing approximately 314 kg of CO₂ emissions. Manufacturing a new MacBook Pro 16" M2 generates 320 kg of CO₂, while this repair only produces about 6 kg of CO₂. That's a 98% reduction in carbon emissions!
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